Stone Town of Zanzibar travel guide

Safety

Safety is becoming an increasing concern on Zanzibar. There have been violent robberies, at knifepoint, of tourists even during daylight hours in Stone Town and its environs. There is speculation that the perpetrators are mainland Tanzanians, as Zanzibaris are usually noted for their honesty. Be careful walking after dark, especially in poorly lit areas. Avoid alleyways at night, particularly by the Big Tree on Mizingani Road and the Malindi area near the port. Valuables can usually be left in your hotel safe as an extra precaution. At night use taxis to get back to the hotel, which can be found easily around the major restaurants and nightclubs. Exert caution on quiet beaches. Ignore anyone that might offer you drugs on the street. Drug use is illegal and the police may be watching the drug pushers – you will get into all sorts of serious trouble if caught negotiating with them. Quite surprisingly, there is a growing problem of heroin use amongst some young Zanzibaris and there is a concern about how and by whom the drug made its way on to the island. It is not uncommon for travellers in hire cars or motorcycles to be stopped by the police while driving to one of the beaches. The police may try to claim that your papers are not in order – basically they are looking for a small bribe. If you ask for a receipt or suggest that you want to go to the actual police station to pay the fine, they will wave you through.

Ins and outs

Getting there

If arriving at the airport, which is 6 km from town, you will be badgered by the many taxi drivers. Ask inside the airport what you should pay for a taxi to take you the short distance into town, which will help with bargaining once outside. A taxi should cost in the region of US$10-15, or alternatively there are buses and dala-dala to town for less than US$1. There is a bureau de change in the airport. Some of the more upmarket hotels and resorts offer free airport pick ups, so it always worthwhile asking.

The ferry terminal is in the Malindi area of Stone Town. Many of the hotels are within walking distance of the ferry terminal, or alternatively you can take a taxi directly from the port. The booking offices for the ferries are clustered around the jetty where you will need to reconfirm the date of your return ticket to Dar if you have not already done so when booking the ticket. The dhow harbour is next to the port, but remember it is illegal for foreigners to travel between the mainland and the islands by dhow.

Stone Town

You can arrange transfers by minivan through most tour agencies to get around the island. It will cost about US$10 per person to get to the beaches in the north or east. You can hire cars for about US$-50-60 per day, motorbikes for US$25-30 per day, and bicycles for US$5-10, from many of the tour operators. Sometimes they also charge a refundable deposit. Ensure all your paperwork is in order if driving.

Air

Several airlines have scheduled services to and from the mainland and Zanzibar airport. Expect to pay in the region of US$81 one way. Some also operate a service between Zanzibar and Pemba which is around US$100 one way. The airline industry is highly changeable, so check times before travelling.

Air Tanzania has flights to Dar daily at 0950 and 1700 (25 mins). These services connect with onward flights.

Precision Air has flights to Dar at 0830, 1150 and 1700 (20 mins) and there are connections to other domestic destinations from Dar. There are also daily direct flights between Zanzibar and Nairobi at 0730 (1 hr 45 mins); to Arusha at 1410, (1 hr 10 mins); and to Mombasa, Tue and Sat 1140, Thu and Fri 0915 (40 mins).

Coastal Air have daily flights to Dar at 0645, 0800, 0930, 1100,1300, 1400, 1430, 1600 and 1715. The 1400 from Zanzibar continues to Selous and costs a further US$160 from Dar. There are also daily return flights to Arusha, which depart Zanzibar at 0930 and Arusha at 1215, take approximately 2 hrs and cost US$220 one way. There’s a daily flight from Zanzibar to Pemba at 1430 (30 mins) that costs US$101.

Zan Air has scheduled daily flights to Dar at 0650, 1130, 1300, 1600 and 1730. To Pemba, 0945 and 1600. There is also 1 daily direct flight to Arusha at 1030.

Airline offices

International airlines that serve Zanzibar are: Emirates, T024-223 4950, http://www.emirates.com. Ethiopian Airlines, T024-2231526, http://www.flyethiopian.com. Gulf Air, just off Malindi Rd towards the port, T024-223 2824. Kenya Airways, Kiponda, T024-223 2041, http://www.kenya-airways.com.

The domestic airlines that serve Zanzibar are:

Air Tanzania, Shangani St, T024-223 0213, http://www.airtanzania.com. Precision Air, Dar, T022-213 0800, T022-212 1718, Zanzibar, Kiponda T024-223 4520, www.precisionair tz.com. Coastal Air, reservations, Dar, T022- 284 2700, Zanzibar Airport office T0713-670 815 (mob), http://www.coastal.cc. Zan Air, to the west of Malawi Rd, Malindi area, T024-223 3670, http://www.zanair.com.

Bus and dala-dala

Dala-dala, which are usually converted pickup vans with wooden benches in the back, and regular buses are the cheapest way of getting around the island. It will cost about US$2 to the east or north coasts, but they are hot, dusty and not very comfortable. Most go from the bus station on Creek Rd opposite the market. Buses with lettered codes serve routes in and around Stone Town. A to Amani, B to Bububu, and U to the airport, amongst others. Numbered vehicles go further afield, and tend to leave once a day around noon, returning early the next morning. Bus No 9 goes to Paje, Jambiani (3 hrs) and Bwejuu (4½ hrs), costing about US$4. Other buses from Creek Rd go to Pwani Mchangani and Matemwe (bus No 1), Mangapwani (bus No 2), Fumba (bus No 7), Makunduchi and Kizimkazi (bus No 10), Nungwi (bus No 16), and Kiwengwa (bus No 17). There is another bus station, Mwembe Ladu, 1 block north of the New Post Office about 1.5 km east of Stone Town. Bus No 6 from here goes to Chakwa (1½ hrs), Uroa and Pongwe.

Ferry

The booking offices of the ferry companies are on the approach road to the harbour.

Azam Marine, T024-223 1655. Flying Horse, T0784-472497 (mob). Sea Express, T024- 223 4690. Sea Star, T0707-223 3857 (mob). Zanzibar Port’s Corporation, for general enquiries, T024-223 2857.

Stone Town

Banks

There are ATM facilities at many of the banks in Zanzibar, including Barclay’s near Maszon’s Hotel, Shangani; People’s Bank of Zanzibar, T024-221 31118/9, behind the fort on Gizenga St, also has a branch at the Airport Terminal, T024-221 1189. Barclay’s, ZSTC Building, Malawi Rd, Gulioni, T024-223 5796; National Bank of Commerce (NBC), Shangani St, T024-223 31541.

Currency exchange

Banks often give an inferior rate compared with the foreign exchange (forex) bureaux, which are also open for longer hours. There are plenty of these all over Stone Town, just ensure you go into an office and do not deal with money changers on the street.

Immigration

Director of Immigration, T024-223 9148. If you lose your passport whilst on Zanzibar contact the immigration department who will arrange for an emergency travel document to get you back to Dar where the international embassies and high consulates are located.

Internet

There are many internet cafés all over Stone Town. Services are particularly good, with fast connections and reasonable prices. Expect to pay around US$1 for 1 hr.

Lost and stolen cards

Visa and MasterCard Assistance Point, next to Serena Inn, Mon-Sat 0830-1730. You can withdraw cash against your credit card.

Medical services

Mkunazini Hospital, near the market, T024-223 0076, British trained doctor, pay fee to register, wait to see doctor then pay for any prescription necessary, pay again when you go to collect medicine: this may be at the clinic or in a nearby drug-store; Zanzibar Medical & Diagnostic Centre, near Majestic Cinema, off Vuga Rd, T024-223 3113; Zanzibar Medical Group, off Kenyatta Rd, T024-223 3134, 24 hr emergency number T0777-410954 (mob).

Money transfers

Western Union money transfer is available from the Tanzanian Postal Bank on Malawi Rd, Malindi area, T024-223 1798, open Mon-Sat 0830-1800.

Police

T024-223 0772.

Post office

The New Post Office is outside Stone Town, in Kijangwani, just over 1 km east of the Karume Monument, T024-223 1260. Bus A or M from the market will take you there. Poste restante are held there. Old Post Office, Kenyatta Rd, Shangani area, has a fax and they should be able to help with poste restante. DHL, opposite Serena Inn.