Windhoek travel guide

Background

Windhoek’s history reflects the movements of different peoples through the country, and in particular offers an insight into the past hundred years of colonial conquest, apartheid and struggle for independence. Originally Windhoek was known by the Khoi-khoi or Nama people as Ai-gams, correctly spelt /A //Gams to indicate the click sound (steam or fire-water), and by the Herero people as Otjomuise (place of smoke) due to the hot water springs found in what is now the Klein Windhoek district. These springs had been used for centuries as watering holes by the Bushmen (San) and Khoi-khoi (Nama), nomadic and semi-nomadic peoples who trekked through the area with their animals.

The roots of today’s city, however, lie in the settlement established by the Oorlam leader Jonker Afrikaner in the 1840s and 1850s at Ai-gams, stretching along the ridge of the Klein Windhoek Valley. In 1836 Jonker urged the British explorer Sir James Alexander, who called the settlement Queen Adelaide’s Bath, to organize a missionary for him. In 1842 the Rhenish missionary Hahn arrived to find a well-established settlement, which he called Elberfeld after a centre of the Rhenish mission in Germany. He was so impressed by the settlement that he was drawn to comment, “The location of Elberfeld is superbly beautiful … seeing the extensive thorntree forest with its delicious green and curious forms, the lovely gardens, and the beautiful greensward … ” Jonker himself, in an 1844 letter to the Wesleyan Mission Station, referred to the settlement as Wind Hoock, and despite much speculation that he named the settlement after Winterhoek, his ancestral home in the Cape, there is no solid evidence to suggest this. However, it is certain that Windhoek was the original name given by Jonker and his followers when they settled here around 1840.

Under Jonker, the settlement flourished and served both as a trading station between the Oorlam/Namas and Herero, as well as a headquarters from which Jonker and his commandos launched cattle raids on the Herero living north of the Swakop River. Following Jonker’s death at Okahandja in 1861, Windhoek was temporarily abandoned until the missionary Schröder installed himself in the remains of the original buildings in the 1870s.

In 1890 the Germans, under Curt von François, were still not well established in Namibia, and having been effectively driven out of Otjimbingwe and Tsaobis by the Nama leader Hendrik Witbooi, made a strategic retreat to Windhoek. This move neatly coincided with the death of Herero leader Maherero, and by the time his successor Samuel Herero sent envoys to Windhoek a few weeks later, the Germans were already halfway through the completion of the original fort. This served as the headquarters for the Schutztruppe (colonial troops) and is known as the Alte Feste (Old Fort). It now houses the historical section of the State Museum and is the oldest surviving building in Windhoek.

The German colonial settlement of Windhoek emerged around the Alte Feste and the springs surrounding it. The settler John Ludwig established substantial vineyards and fruit and vegetable gardens which fed the small settlement; the modern suburb, Ludwigsdorf, is named after him. The Klein Windhoek Valley continued to be agriculturally productive until the beginning of the 1960s with the hot springs below the Alte Feste ‘smoking away’.

With the completion in 1902 of the railway to Swakopmund on the coast, the settlement was able to expand and develop as the economic and cultural centre of the colony. In 1909 Windhoek became a municipality and this period saw the construction of a number of fine buildings, including the Tintenpalast, the present site of Namibia’s Parliament, and the Christuskirche with its stained-glass windows donated by Kaiser Wilhelm II.

During the 1960s the South African government pursued a policy designed to incorporate Namibia into South Africa as the fifth province, and this period saw a further era of rapid development and growth, not just in Windhoek but in the country as a whole. In Windhoek, the government started forcible movements of people from the ‘Old Location’ in 1959, and as the black population was gradually obliged to settle in Katutura, the white suburbs of Hochland Park and Pioneer’s Park were developed on the western side of the city.

The period since independence has seen further growth characterized by some distinctly post-modern buildings in the city centre. The still very much low level skyline is dominated by the Kalahari Sands Hotel and the Namdeb (formerly CDM) building, but new office blocks, the new Supreme Court Building and other Ministry buildings recently completed are quickly changing the face of the city.

On a more modest scale, the last decade has seen a rapid explosion of medium- to low-cost housing developments around the western and southeastern outskirts of the city. These new developments have helped to extend the city far beyond its old boundaries and are bringing Namibians of all races together, as upwardly mobile young black and coloured (originally of mixed European and African descent) Namibians seek to move out of the townships and young white Namibians, no longer able to afford property in the expensive former white suburbs, look elsewhere.

Best time to visit

Windhoek is situated in a semi-desert region. Rainfall occurs mostly during the summer months of January to March with an average of 370 mm. Days are mostly warm and sunny, though it gets quite hot during between December and February when temperatures reach 34°C. By contrast, even during this period and because of the surrounding hills, nights can be cool, so bring adequate clothing. The winter months of June to August are generally dry, mild and sunny, though nights are cold. Minimum temperatures are between 5°C and 18°C.

Safety

Despite being a sleek and modern city with good infrastructure and services, don’t be deluded. Windhoek is far from crime free, and obvious tourists are usually the ones to be targeted. Muggings and bag snatchings do occur, so be vigilant when walking around the city centre, especially at the weekend and when the shops start to close in the late afternoon and there are fewer people on the streets; always take a taxi after dark. If you are driving ensure that your place of accommodation has off-street parking as cars parked on the street overnight will invariably get broken into.

Getting around

The most obvious feature of the city centre is its size – or lack of it. The central district consists of Independence Avenue running from south to north, where the main shops, banks, post office, tourism offices and larger hotels can be found, and a series of well- ordered streets laid out on a grid around it. Zoo Park, with its lawns and palm trees, lies on Independence Avenue right at the heart of the city, and offers a green and shady place used for some Windhoekers to relax at lunchtimes. Post Street Mall, the main shopping area, is close by with its department stores and traditional arts and crafts street market; at the far end lies the main Werne Hill Shopping Mall.

As long as you are up to walking around the city there isn’t really any need to sign up for an organized tour of the city. Most of the tour companies offer one-day game-viewing and sundowner tours to guest farms around Windhoek and if you’re really pressed for time you might well want to consider opting for one of these. If you’re in the country on business for a few days, then a day in the bush with a knowledgeable guide followed by a sundowner and optional braai makes for a good break and is well worth it.

Ins and outs

Getting there

Intercape coaches on the route between Windhoek and Swakopmund and Walvis Bay, and the route between South Africa and Livingstone in Zambia, arrive and depart from the car park behind the Tourist Information Office .

Windhoek train station is situated close to the town centre at the northern end of Mandume Ndemufayo Street. All passenger services depart from here, so too does the luxury Desert Express train.

Windhoek

Windhoek is in the centre of the country, all the surfaced highways and railways radiate out from here. The pattern of the road network makes it difficult to do a circuit of the country without having to return to Windhoek at some point – unless you want to spend a lot of time driving on gravel roads of variable condition. It is 1375 km to Johannesburg (South Africa); 1096 km to Gaborone (Botswana); 1218 km to Katima Mulilo; 482 km to Keetmanshoop; 850 km to Lüderitz; 533 km to Namutoni (Etosha NP); 786 km to Noordoewer (South Africa border); 435 km to Okakuejo (Etosha NP); 350 km to Swakopmund; 1435 km to Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe) via the Caprivi Strip.

Air

See pages and for international and domestic flights. Shuttles to both airports leave from the small car park outside the Tourist Information Office, corner of Independence Av and Fidel Castro St. Alternatively, pre-arrange one through your hotel or Windhoek Airport Transfers and Tours, T061-258792, http://www.namibiatours.com.na.

Hosea Kutako International Airport

, 45 km east of the city, T062-540315/6, http://www.airports.com.na, has international connections with Europe and South Africa. Air Namibia flies to Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe), Maun (Botswana) and Luanda (Angola).

Eros Airport

, 3 km south of town, T061- 2955500, is used by Air Namibia for domestic flights between Windhoek and Lüderitz, Katima Mulilo, Ondangwa, Oranjemund and Walvis Bay, as well as by tour operators and charter flight companies.

Airline offices

Air Namibia, Trans Namib Building, corner of Independence Av and Bahnhof St, T061-2996333, Hosea Kutako International Airport, T061-2996600, Eros Airport, T061-2996500, www.air namibia.com.na; South African Airways, T061-540268, Hosea Kutoko International Airport, T061-273350, http://www.flysaa.com.

Bus

Intercape, T061-227847, http://www.intercape.co.za . The coaches from the direction of South Africa and Swakopmund all terminate in the car park behind the Tourist Information Office on the corner of Independence Av and Fidel Castro St.

Town Hopper, T064-407223 (Swakopmund), http://www.townhoppers.iway.na. Daily shuttle using micro/sprinter bus that usually departs from Swakopmund at 0800 and arrives in Windhoek at 1200, then departs Windhoek at 1430 and gets back to Swakopmund at around 1730. This costs US$27 one way. In Windhoek they stop outside the Tourist Information Office on Independence Av, and in Swakopmund they stop at Tobias Hanyeko St, outside the Standard Bank, but for a small extra fee will pick up/drop off from your hotel.

Car

If you have the luxury of having your own vehicle in Namibia (some frequent visitors do), then on the way to the airport about 20 km from Windhoek, is the Trans-Kalahari Inn . It not only offers accommodation, but you can park your car safely when not in Namibia; US$17 per month or US$200 per year on open ground, or US$43 per month or US$515 per year under cover. They will pick up and drop you off at the airport and also have a workshop for minor repairs.

Car hire

A full range of vehicles is available from small sedan cars from US$50 per day to fully equipped to go 4WDs with rooftop tents, kitchen and cooking equipment, tools, first-aid kit, jerry cans, extra fuel tanks, spare parts, bedding, fridge, lights and towels. The latter option works out about US$120 a day for 2-4 people but when you consider how much money you will save by camping instead of staying in hotels, this represents excellent value. Depending on your itinerary, some 4WDs are equipped with long-distance (140 litre) fuel tanks, which are worth asking about. Many of the companies also hire out campers and motorhomes, and all will arrange to meet you with the vehicle at either of Windhoek’s airports.

Note

While some companies are listed as allowing vehicles into Zimbabwe, because of the political situation there, in some cases this may mean only Victoria Falls, a short drive from Namibia ; check with the company first.

Advanced 4x4 Car Hire, 74 Aschenborn St, Pioneers Park, T061-246832, www.advanced carhire.com. Allows vehicles to Botswana and South Africa and rents out GPSs.

African Tracks, 10 Pettenkofer St, Windhoek West, T061-245072, http://www.africantracks.com. Allows vehicles to go to South Africa, Botswana, Zimbabwe and Zambia.

Andes Car Rental, 25 Voigt St, Southern Industrial Area, T061-256334, www.andescar rental.com. Saloon cars and double cab 4WDs.

Asco Car Hire, 195 Mandume Ndemufayo Av, Southern Industrial Area, T061-377200, http://www.ascocarhire.com. Allows vehicles to go north as far as Malawi and rents out satellite phones and GPSs. As well as the normal fleet of vehicles, now rent out Hummers (a fairly new import to southern Africa).

Avis, Safari Hotel, Aviation Rd, T061-233166, airport T062-540271, http://www.avis.co.za.

Britz Africa/Maui Motorhome Rentals, 19 Newcastle St, Southern Industrial Area, T061- 219590, http://www.britz.com, http://www.maui.co.za. Allows vehicles to go to South Africa, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Zambia and Mozambique. A fleet of Mercedes motor homes sleeping 2-5. Couples might prefer the ‘compact’ 2-person Spirit 2 if they don’t want to camp.

Budget, 72 Mandume Ndemufayo Av, T061-228720, airport T062-540225, http://www.budget.co.za.

Camping Car Hire, 36 Joule St, Southern Industrial Area, T061-237756, www.camping- carhire.com. Good-value fully equipped vehicles with excellent service and back up. Hires out satellite phones. Recommended.

Caprivi Car Hire, corner of Mandume Ndemufayo Av and Fiedel Castro St, Southern Industrial Area, T061-256323, www.caprivi carhire.de. A full range of Toyota vehicles, including minibuses, with offices in Cape Town and Johannesburg

Europcar/Imperial Car Rental, 351 Sam Nujoma Dr, Klein Windhoek, T061-385100, airport T062-540041, http://www.europcar.co.za, http://www.imperialcarrental.co.za. Rents mobile phones and GPSs.

Hertz, airport T062-540116, http://www.hertz.co.za.

Into Namibia, T061-230106, www.into nam.com.na. 4WD rental, and allows vehicles to Botswana, South Africa and Mozambique.

Kea Campers, corner of Sam Nujoma Dr and Stein St, T061-252298, http://www.keacampers.co.za. Fully equipped 4WDs, but as this is the leading camper van hire company in Australia and New Zealand, now operating in southern Africa, it’s a good bet for a 5-berth home on wheels.

Namibia Car Hire, 61 Bruhn St, T061-255700, http://www.namibiacarhire.de. A full range of Mazda vehicles.

Pegasus Car and Camper Hire, 81 Daan Bekker St, T061-251451, www.pegasuscar- namibia.com. Fully equipped 4WDs or ask about their customized Toyota Condor ‘Mini- camper’; not a purpose built camper van, but fitted with a double mattress in the back.

Savanna, 80 Trift St, T061-229272, http://www.autovermietungsavanna.com/detailse.html. Again a good range of Toyotas.

Sixt/Tempest, Aviation Rd, T061-463812, airport, T061-540278, http://www.sixt.com, http://www.tempestcarhire.co.za.

Taxi

The taxi rank is on the corner of Independence Av and Fidel Castro St. It is not usual to hail taxis in the street but any hotel or restaurant can call one for you. Dial-a-Driver Services, T061-259677, http://www.namibiasafaris.com. Offers transfer services with drivers and cars or minibuses from the airport and anywhere in Windhoek to the outlying game farms and lodges, plus minibus and bus rental for larger groups.

Train

TransNamib Starline Passenger Services, central reservations T061-2982175, http://www.transnamib.com.na. The office at the station is open daily 0600-2000. Standard services go between Windhoek and Gobabis (7½ hrs); Swakopmund (9½ hrs) and Walvis Bay; (11 hrs); Tsumeb (15 hrs), via Omaruru and Otjiwarongo; and Keetmanshoop (11 hrs 20 mins), via Rehoboth and Mariental. From Keetmanshoop this links to a weekly service to Upington in South Africa on Wed, the total journey is 26 hrs.

In 2006, a new rail link from Tsumeb to Ondangwa was completed, known as the Omugulu Gwombashe Star. It’s a hi-tech modern diesel train, with airline- like facilities such as a/c, DVD plasma screens and bar facilities. It departs Windhoek every Fri at 1730 and arrives in Ondangwa at 0850 on Sat, and departs Ondangwa on Sun at 1400 and gets back to Windhoek on Mon morning at 0520. Again for full timetables see page . Work is underway to extend the railway as far as Oshikango on the Angolan border.

The Desert Express, T061-2982600, http://www.desertexpress.com.na, bookings at Windhoek railway station, Mon-Fri 0800-1700, is Namibia’s answer to luxury train travel, but is good value when compared with similar luxury trains in the region. There are 2 classes, the Starview Sitter and the Spitzkoppe Sleeper. A superb service with cuisine and care to match. En route the train stops for a game drive and a visit to the sand dunes. It departs Windhoek on Fri at 1130, and it departs Swakopmund on Sat at 1430. Expect to pay in the region of US$500 for a double sleeper, all inclusive, and children under 12 get a reduction. The train can also take your car for about US$70-80, but this must be organized in advance.

The 4-day Etosha Breakaway runs several times throughout the year from Windhoek to Etosha National Park and back. Game drives in the park are included; check the website for dates.

Banks

There are 4 main banks in Namibia, Standard Bank, Bank Windhoek, Nedbank and First National Bank, all of which have a number of branches in central Windhoek which change money and have 24-hr ATMs.

Cultural centres

British Council, T061-226776, http://www.britishcouncil.org/africa-namibia.htm. Jointly shares the same building as the Goethe-Zumtrum, below.

Franco-Namibian Cultural Centre, 118 Robert Mugabe St, T061-222122, http://www.fncc.org.na. Exhibitions and film shows, check the website and press for details.

Goethe-Zentrum, in the Ludwig Van Estorff House, Fidel Castro St, T061-255700, www.goe the.de. The German cultural centre, which again has art exhibitions and shows movies and holds German language classes.

Embassies and consulates

Angola, 3 Agostino Neto St, T061-227535. Botswana, 101 Klein Windhoek, T061- 221941/2. European Union, Sanlam Centre, 4th floor, 154 Independence Av, T061-2026000, www.del nam.ec.europa.eu. France, 1 Goethe St, T061-276700. Germany, 6th floor, Sanlam Centre, 154 Independence Av, T061-273100, germany@iway.na. Ghana, 5 Nelson Mandela, T061-220536. South Africa, Nelson Mandela/ Jan Jonker St, T061-2057111, sahcwin@ iafrica.com.na. UK, British High Commission, 116 Robert Mugabe Av, T061- 274800, general.windhoek@fco.gov.uk. USA, Sanlam Centre, 3rd floor, 154 IIndependence Av, T061-229801, http://windhoek.usembassy.gov.

Zambia, Sam Nujoma/Mandume Ndemufayo, T061-237610. Zimbabwe, Independence Av/Grimm St, T061-228134.

Emergencies

T10111.

Immigration

Department of Civic Affairs, Cohen Building, corner of Independence Av and Kasino St, T061-2922111.

Internet

here are several spots around the city centre including the Windhoek Information Office, corner of Independence Av and Fidel Castro St, The Office Shop, Gustav Voigts Centre, lower floor, and the Namibia Crafts Centre, on Tal St.

Libraries

Public Library, 18 Lüderitz St, T061-224163.

Medical services

Medi-clinic Windhoek, Private Hospital, Heliodoor St, Eros, T061-1222687, http://www.windhoekmc.co.za, is the best and most expensive hospital in Windhoek. Rhino Park Clinic, Rhino Park, Hosea Kutako Drive, T061-225434. Roman Catholic Hospital, 92 Werner List St, T061-2702004.

Police

Main station, Bahnhof St, T061-2094111.

Post office

Windhoek Post Office, Independence Av, T061-2019311, open 0800-1600 for parcel service round the side on Munamava St, as are phones. Phone cards can be bought in the main hall of the post office.