Swakopmund travel guide

Background

“The municipality since 1909 has made every effort to create an up-to-date township. The water supply is the best in the whole Protectorate and shortage is never felt in the town. There is an Electric Power Station, Ice and Mineral Waters Factories, a first class Hospital and Nursing Home, Public Library, German, Dutch and English Churches, High-class Schools and Hostels and a lot of Corporations and Clubs” (Swakopmund Publicity Association, 1924-1925). This is how the town proudly promoted itself during the inter- war years, yet 30 years earlier no more than 30 Europeans lived in the newly established town. As a visitor, it is always worth pausing and questioning why and how the town came to be here. If ever there was a town in Africa that owed its origins to colonialism it was Swakopmund.

The first Europeans to encounter the barren Namibian coastline did not stop; the Portuguese sailors left monuments to mark the points where they had ventured ashore, but there was no attempt made to settle anywhere along this section of the Atlantic coast. But when the German protectorate was proclaimed in 1884 the British had already claimed possession of Walvis Bay, forcing the Germans to look elsewhere for a suitable coastal port. While there were other more suitable sites along the coast, the Germans selected Swakopmund as the point to develop a future harbour and settlement because, first, the immediate hinterland was not a mass of sand dunes that inhibited the inland development of transport routes, and second, a short distance up the Swakop River valley there was a fresh water supply.

In August 1892 the German gunboat, Hyena, landed just north of the Swakop River and two beacons were raised by the crew to mark their position. At the time this was one of many possible locations for a port along the coast that the Germans were looking for. Today history recounts that the landing in 1892 marked the origins of Swakopmund, however, it was a combination of chance and a tough spirit that saw the establishment and growth of a town at this point on the coast. The first 40 settlers were landed in 1893 by four boats, but thereafter they had to fend for themselves. There was no accommodation, there was nothing; many of these early settlers ended up living in what have been described as ‘caves’ on the beaches. Today the town can be a grim place on a misty day, so imagine how it was for the first settlers at the turn of the last century. Gradually a town developed and people were able to move inland and establish trading posts and mission stations, but it was the resilience of the earliest settlers that set the pattern. After the First World War the town fell into decline as the nearby port of Walvis Bay assumed the role as the main town on the coast. Many businesses and government offices also moved. Until the 1970s Swakopmund may have been a forgotten town, but many of the citizens made their mark.

Today it is one of the most unusual and vibrant communities along the western coast of Africa; what’s more, it has a special place in German history. Tourism is now an integral part of the local economy, and many people in the area depend upon the thousands of visitors each year. During the month of December the population on the coast is said to double, hotels are full, restaurants require a booking and to the frustration of local residents there are no parking places in the town centre. In recent years, Swakopmund has witnessed development on a large scale, and the modern town is experiencing a building boom that is taking many people by surprise. Already a number of resorts and holiday homes have been built at Long Beach between Swakopmund and Walvis Bay. To the north of Swakopmund the former bleak campsite at Mile 4 is long gone and the region is now part of the built-up area of the town. Building (mostly apartments) is going on everywhere: both Namibian Breweries and the Swakopmund Tannery have been closed down for new development and to the north of town blasting has started, and rocks are being quarried to build a new marina as part of a waterfront development that will also include apartments, shops, restaurants and two hotels, one a five-star establishment. The latter is expected to take another four years to complete.

Best time to visit

Although the town lies in a true arid desert, the cold Benguela Current that flows from south to north along the coast acts as a moderating influence. The climate on the coast is temperate, with temperatures of 15-25°C. The sea temperature is 14-18°C, too cold for swimming for any period without a wet suit. Swakopmund receives less than 15 mm of rain per year as the rain clouds have to travel all the way over Africa from the Indian Ocean. As you walk about the town note how most buildings have no gutters or drain pipes; on the rare occasion the town gets a lot of rain it floods. The only moisture comes in the form of a sea mist that can reach up to 50 km inland . Swakopmund is fairly quiet at the weekends. Except for the large supermarkets and tourist shops, other businesses close from 1300 on Saturday until Monday morning and most restaurants are closed on Sunday nights.

Safety

On the whole Swakopmund is fairly safe, though, like Windhoek, tourists have been targeted by muggers and robbers in the past. Make use of hotel safes and try to avoid carrying valuables around. At night always take a taxi or walk home in a large group. Ensure that room windows are locked at night, especially in self-catering accommodation that is known to be let out to tourists. Always lock your car and do not leave any valuables on show. Make use of the car guards in the street who usually wear yellow work vests and an ID badge. They’ll watch your car and when you return to it, a N$2 tip is about right (more at night and if you leave your car for a lengthy period of time). Since the car guards were put in place, theft from vehicles in the town is reported to have been reduced by 90% (the system also provides well-needed jobs). Try and ensure that your accommodation has secure off-street parking.

Getting around

Swakopmund is entirely negotiable by foot, although at night it is advisable to catch a taxi back to your hotel even over short distances . The town is dissected neatly in a grid pattern and signposts are clear. The main road that runs from east to the coast on the west and is the extension of the B2 is Sam Nujoma Avenue (formerly known as Kaiser Wilhelm Street). Many streets in Swakopmund and Windhoek have undergone a chance of name in order to reflect contemporary figures in Namibia’s history rather than colonial ones. To reach the outlying regions of Swakopmund, you need to be on a tour or have a car. All the operators provide pick-ups in town (eg to the Swakopmund Airport for skydiving), which are almost always included in the price.

Ins and outs

Getting there

Swakopmund, the principal town on the coast, features on just about every itinerary of a trip to Namibia, so if you are on an organized tour, at least a couple of days in town will be included. It is easily reached from Windhoek along the tarred B2 via Okahandja. This route, which can be covered in half a day, is well served by the regional towns of the Hinterland with plenty of shops and petrol stations along the way. However, there are more scenic approaches from the interior to the coast on the gravel roads. From Windhoek the C28 goes to Swakopmund through part of the Namib-Naukluft Park, and this is a very scenic drive though you will require a permit for part of it. Another route that goes through the park is the C26 and then the C14 from Windhoek to Walvis Bay, 30 km to the south of Swakopmund; this route goes over the Gamsberg and Kuiseb passes and again offers a wonderfully scenic drive. Intercape Mainliner and Town Hoppers buses run a daily service from Windhoek to Swakopmund, Air Namibia has flights between Windhoek and nearby Walvis Bay, and there is also the option of taking the luxury (expensive) Desert Express train from the capital to the coast.

Tourist information

The Ministry of Environment and Tourism (MET) (Bismarck St (upstairs from NWR), T064- 404576, http://www.met.gov.na, permits can be obtained Mon-Fri 0800-1500, Sat and Sun 0900-1200, though the service is erratic at weekends when the staff may decide not to come in) is the place to get permits for the Welwitschia Plains drive if you are driving independently and not on a tour. Most other permits are available at the gates of the parks. The exception is the Kolmonskop Ghost Town near Lüderitz in the south, which can be obtained once in Lüderitz. The desert is well patrolled by MET staff, make sure you observe all the regulations and respect the fragility of the local environment. Do not litter (that includes cigarette butts). There is no excuse for not having a permit. If you are caught without a permit the fine is US$65 per vehicle.

Banks

All the main banks are in the centre of town, all with 24-hr ATMs, and a foreign exchange desk inside. First National Bank, Tobias Hainyeko St. Nedbank, Standard Bank and Windhoek Bank, all 3 on Sam Nujoma Av. There are also ATMs at many of the Engen petrol stations. Sea Rescue, T064-404213.

Internet

There are several places around town and most accommodation offers access. Compucare, next to Pleasure Flights, 12 Hendrik Witbooi St, T064-463775, also downloads of digital photos on CD, scanning, drinks, Mon-Sat 0800-1800, Sun 1000-1700. Also has dial up for laptops. I-Café and Coffee Shop, Tobias Hainyeko St, in the Woermann and Brock centre, T064-464021, Mon-Fri 0700-2000, Sun 1000-2000. Plenty of computers with quick links, can also access with your own laptop, international fax and phone, can download digital photos on to CD, photocopying, and a coffee and cake counter. This is very popular with overseas visitors, particularly groups from the overland trucks. The quad-bike operator Outback Orange, on Nathaniel Maxuilili St, and the Roxy’s Café in Swakop Lodge, opposite, also have terminals for internet access.

Medical services

Bismark Pharmacy and Private Medical Centre, 17 Sam Nujoma Av, T064-405000. For foreign visitors with good medical insurance, this is the best bet for doctor’s visits, medical and dentistry emergencies. Cottage Medi Clinic, private hospital, corner of Mosley and Fransica Van Neel Sts, T064-4412200.

Police and emergencies

T10111.

Post office

The main post office is in Tobias Hainyeko St, next to the police station.

Telephone

The post office has an international call centre and there are public telephones throughout town.