Mombasa travel guide

Background

The seasonal monsoon wind known as the Kazkazi blows down the coast from the northeast between October and April, as it has done for thousands of years bringing trade to Mombasa. Between May and September this monsoon wind becomes the Kuzi, when it turns through 180° and blows back up the coast towards the Arabian Gulf. The Kazkazi and the Kuzi winds were the key to the foreign exploitation of Kenya and the rest of East Africa for thousands of years: the earliest known reference to Mombasa dates from AD 150 when the Roman geographer Ptolemy placed the town on his map of the world. Roman, Arabic and Far Eastern seafarers took advantage of the port and were regular visitors, and the port provided the town with the basis of economic development and it expanded steadily.

By the 16th century Mombasa was the most important town on the east coast of Africa with a population estimated at 10,000. A wealthy settlement, it was captured by the Portuguese who were trying to break the Arab trading monopoly, particularly in the lucrative merchandising of spices. The town first fell to the Portuguese under the command of Dom Francisco in 1505. He ransacked the town and burnt it to the ground. It was rebuilt and returned to its former glory before it was ransacked again in 1528. However, the Portuguese did not stay and, having again looted and razed the town, they left.

The building of Fort Jesus in 1593, the stationing of a permanent garrison there, and the installation of their own nominee from Malindi as Sultan, represented the first major attempt to secure Mombasa permanently. However, an uprising by the townspeople in 1631 led to the massacre of all the Portuguese. This led to yet another Portuguese fleet returning to try to recapture the town. In 1632 the leaders of the revolt retreated to the mainland leaving the island to the Europeans. Portuguese rule lasted less than 100 years and they were expelled by the Omanis in 1698. The Omanis also held Zanzibar and were heavily involved in the slave trade. Their rule was supplanted by the British in 1873.

The British efforts to stamp out the slave trade, and anxiety about German presence in what is now Tanzania, led in 1896 to the beginning of the construction of the railway that was to link Uganda to the sea. The first rail was laid at Mombasa Railway Station on 13 May 1896 and the railhead reached Port Florence (Kisumu) on Lake Victoria on 20 December 1901, having ascended the Great Rift Valley western wall and crested the Mau Summit at some 2700 m above sea level, making it the highest metre-gauge railway in the world. One of the railway camps that was established before the construction of the line across the Rift Valley was at Nairobi. This town grew so rapidly that by 1907 it was large enough for the administrative quarters to move inland. The climate of Nairobi was considered to be healthier than the coast, and because of its elevation was too high for malaria-bearing mosquitoes to survive. Meanwhile, with the railway, the importance of the port of Mombasa increased rapidly and it became known as the Gateway to East Africa, serving Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda and Burundi.

In more recent history, Mombasa was the scene of a terrorist attack in 2002 when a hotel on one of the northern beaches, popular with Israelis and the only Israeli-owned hotel in the Mombasa area, was car bombed by suicide bombers, leaving 10 Kenyans and three Israeli holidaymakers dead. At the same time an Israeli plane was fired at as it was taking off from Mombasa Airport. Although the attacks to this day still haven’t been confirmed as the work of al-Qaeda, if they were, it would have been their first attack on Israelis, despite their alleged hostility towards Israel.

Safety

Although there’s nowhere in the city centre that is considered a no-go area as such, petty theft does occur so don’t flash valuables or walk down dark alleyways. Be particularly wary on the crowded Likoni Ferry. Also by contrast to Nairobi and other towns where streets empty after 1800, on the coast, and because of climatic conditions, many businesses close for a siesta in the middle of the day. As such the city stays awake longer, and the streets are still busy in the early evening and shops stay open later. Nevertheless, when they do close and people go home, do not wander the streets and take a taxi.

Getting around

The city is bisected by two main roads: Moi Avenue, which runs from the industrial area to the west of the island, and then becomes Nkrumah Avenue to Fort Jesus in the east, and Digo Road that crosses it in the centre of the city around the Old Town. Numerous matatus run up and down Digo Road going to the Likoni Ferry to the south and Nyali Beach and other points in the north. Taxis can be found all over town parked on street corners. Tuk-tuks are beginning to feature on the city’s streets and are considerably cheaper than regular taxis. You can walk around the centre of Mombasa but the heat and humidity will tire you out quickly if you are too energetic. The traffic fumes are also particularly bad. Moi International Airport is located on the mainland about 10 km out of the centre of town. To get from the airport to the centre of town, you will need to take a taxi, which should cost in the region of US$10-12 depending on the time of day. Inside the airport are several taxi and shuttle bus desks that can arrange not only lifts into town but direct shuttles to most of the beach resorts. Prices are clearly marked on their boards.

Ins and outs

Getting there

The overnight train from Nairobi runs three times a week and there are several bus services a day with various different companies. Although on the coast, there are no boat links to anywhere else in Kenya or to neighbouring countries, and travelling by dhow is illegal for foreigners, but cruise ships pull into the port from time to time and there is the option of seeing Mombasa from the water on the Tamarind dhow .

Mombasa

Air

Moi International Airport is on the mainland about 10 km out of the centre of town, T041-433 211, www.kenya airports.com. Airport tax for domestic flights is US$4 but this is included in the price of scheduled airline tickets and is only payable on charter flights. Some of the airlines are now flying between Mombasa and Tanzania, but remember you will need to show a yellow fever vaccination certificate on arrival in Tanzania. Mombasa Air Safaris, links Mombasa to airstrips in the parks and reserves.

Air Kenya has 1 daily flight to Nairobi’s Wilson Airport (1 hr 5 mins) that departs at 1105. In Nairobi you can link on to their scheduled services to the airstrips in the parks and reserves. Fly 540 has 5 daily flights to Nairobi (1 hr) from US$69 1 way, at least 2 daily flights to Malindi (15 mins) from only US$30 1 way, and 1 daily flight to Zanzibar (45 mins) in Tanzania, which from US$99 1 way is especially good value. Kenya Airways has about 10 flights a day to Nairobi (1 hr) between 0600 and 2300. They don’t fly directly to Malindi or Lamu, so you’ll have to back track via Nairobi or take another airline. Kenya Airways code shares with Tanzania’s Precision Air, and there are now flights to Zanzibar and Dar es Salaam on Tue, Thu, Fri and Sun. Mombasa Air Safari uses small planes and operates a daily scheduled ‘Beach to Bush’ service between Mombasa, and the airstrip at Diani Beach, to Amboseli, Tsavo, and the Masai Mara. It also has daily scheduled flights to Malindi and Lamu.

Airline offices

Air Kenya, Wilson Airport, Nairobi, T020-605 745, http://www.airkenya.com. Fly 540, T041-343 4822, www.fly 40.com. Kenya Airways, Wilson Airport, T041-350 5500, town office, Electricity House, Nkrumah Rd, http://www.kenya-airways.com. Mombasa Air Safari, Moi International Airport, T041-343 3061, http://www.mombasaairsafari.com.

Bus

On all buses seats can be booked and there is no overcrowding with standing passengers anymore. There are lots of bus companies that go to Nairobi and their kiosks are on Jomo Kenyatta Av opposite the Islamic Cemetery and near the market. They usually leave early morning and evening, take 9-11 hrs and cost about US$15. Akamba Bus, T041-349 0269, http://www.akambabus.com, is on Jomo Kenyatta Av. Buses and matatus depart for Malindi frequently throughout the day and take about 1½ hrs. They leave Mombasa when full from Abdel Nasser Rd outside the New People’s Hotel. There are daily buses to Lamu, which also pick up in Malindi, 7 hrs, US$10, and the Pwani Tawakal Bus Company, T041-222 975, http://pwani tawakal.com, is recommended for the Lamu service, which has 3 daily departures between 0600-0800. The bus will take you to the Mokowe Jetty on the mainland from where you get a ferry across to Lamu .

The bus service to Lamu has been targeted by bandits in past years, with some fatalities, and for many years the service was not recommended. However, there has not been an incident for quite some time and it is reasonably regarded to be safe. Despite this, armed escorts get on the bus on the last stretch of the road to Lamu at either Garsen or Witu. Heading south to Tanzania, Scandinavian Express, is a very good Tanzanian bus company, Arrow Plaza, Jomo Kenyatta Av, T041-490 975, http://www.scandinaviagroup.com. It runs a daily service at 0800, which takes about 4 hrs to Tanga, US$13 and 10 hrs to Dar es Salaam, US$23. There is an identical daily service in the opposite direction that departs Dar es Salaam also at 0800. Other buses to Tanzania also go from Jomo Kenyatta Av. The border is at Lunga Lunga, see page for border-crossing information. If not going all the way to Dar es Salaam, then from Tanga there are bus connections on to Moshi and Arusha.

Car hire

Avis, airport, T041-432486, Nkrumah Rd, T041-222 0465, http://www.avis.com.

Budget, airport, T041-343 3211, Associated Motors Complex, Kenyatta Av, T041-249 0047, http://www.budget-kenya.com.

Distance Car Hire and Tours, Wimpy Building, next to the Tusks, Moi Av, T041-222 2869, http://www.distancetours.com.

Europcar, Makena House, Nkrumah Rd, T041-311 994, http://www.europcar.com.

Hertz, airport, T041-434 4020, http://www.hertz.com.

Special Lofty Safaris, Nkrumah Rd, T041-222 0241, http://www.lofty-tours.com.

Ferry

The Likoni Ferry docks at the southeast of the island. The two 24-hr ferries cross simultaneously and depart about every 15 mins from about 0400-0100, and every hour in the middle of the night and are free for pedestrians and cyclists (cars US$0.60 and motorbikes US$0.30). There is always a throng of people waiting to board or disembark from the boat – keep your hands tightly on your possessions and beware of pickpockets and thieves. The waters are said to contain sharks although this is debatable. Matatus to the ferry leave from outside the post office on Digo Rd – ask for Likoni. In fact it is possible to get a matatu to the Likoni ferry from just about anywhere in the city even if the taxi drivers tell you otherwise. When the ferry docks, the matatus for Ukunda (the turn-off to Diani Beach) are located at the top of the slipway from the ferry.

Taxi

Taxis leave from Moi International Airport to local destinations. Prices are fixed and are posted up on boards and vary depending on whether you choose a small private car or minibus. Into town expect to pay around US$10, to Nyali Beach about US$20, to Shanzu Beach about U$35, and to Diani Beach, which includes the crossing of the Likoni Ferry, about US$60.

You can also organize shuttles from Mombasa’s Moi International Airport to all the north coast resorts through the resorts themselves or with the taxi companies in the arrivals hall.

Train

Mombasa Railway Station, T041-433 211, is at the end of Haile Selassie Av at Jubilee Sq. There are services 3 times a week between Mombasa and Nairobi. The train is notoriously late so don’t book onward travel on the same day as the arrival of the train.

Banks

There are many banks on Nkrumah Av and Moi Av with ATMs. The 3 branches of Barclays Bank, Digo Rd, Moi Av, and Nkrumah Av, have efficient foreign-exchange facilities and will give cash advances off cards.

Courier companies

DHL, Nkrumah Av, T041-222 3933, http://www.dhl.com.

Currency exchange

Pwani Bureau de Change, opposite Mackinnon Market on Digo Rd, is fast and efficient and good rates are offered, while Coast Forex Bureau is on the corner of Moi Av and Digo Rd on the opposite corner to the Stanbic Bank.

Internet

There are many cybercafés or small businesses offering email and internet access in Mombasa. However, access is compromised by frequent interruptions to the power supply. The best are the Info Café, Ambalal House, opposite the Kenya Airways office on Nkrumah Av, which also serves snacks and juices, and the internet café at the back of the Mombasa Blue Room Restaurant, Haile Selassie Rd. Blue Fin Cyber Cafe, Meru Rd, also sells fresh sugarcane juice. Books First is an excellent chain of bookshops that also double up as internet cafés, and there are branches at the Nakumatt Complex near the Likoni Ferry, and at the Nyali Shopping Centre.

Cultural centres

Alliance Française, Freed Building, Moi Av, T041-340 079, www.amba france-ke.org. British Council, Jubilee Insurance Building, Moi Av just west of the Tusks, T041-222 3076, www.british council.org.

Immigration

The visa office is on Mama Ngina Rd next to the police station, T041-231 1745.

Medical services

Aga Khan Hospital, Vanga Rd, T041-222 7710, http://www.agakhanhospitals.org. Mombasa Hospital, Mama Ngina Rd, T041-231 2191, http://www.mombasahospital.com. Pandya Memorial Hospital, Dedan Kimathi St, T041-231 3577, http://www.pandyahospital.org. Coast Provincial General Hospital, Kisauni Rd, T041-231 4201. There are plenty of well-stocked pharmacies in the city centre.

Post office

Digo St, Mon-Fri 0800-1800, Sat 0900-1200.