Malindi travel guide

Background

The earliest known reference to Malindi is found in Chinese geography in a piece published in 1060 written by a scholar who died in AD 863. The first accurate description of the town is believed to have been written by Prince Abu al-Fida, who lived from 1273 to 1331. Archaeological evidence supports the theory that the town of Malindi was founded by Arabs in the 13th century. In any event, locals claim that there was a big Chinese trading influence. This belief is supported by the fact that many of the local people still retain traces of Chinese features.

In 1498 Vasco da Gama, having rounded the Cape of Good Hope, stopped off at various ports along the coast. At Mombasa he was not made welcome – indeed attempts were made to sink his ships. At Malindi he found a much warmer reception. The good relations between Malindi and the Portuguese continued throughout the 16th century. The town was governed by Arabs, who were the wealthiest group. The wealth came from the trade with India and the supply of agricultural produce grown in the surrounding plantations.

The town went into a period of decline in the 16th century and in 1593 the Portuguese administration was transferred from Malindi to Mombasa. Although Malindi continued to suffer as Mombasa expanded and took more trade, the town’s prosperity did improve during this period and the use of slaves was an important factor. In the first year of resettlement in 1861 there were 1000 slaves working for just 50 Arabs. Malindi had a bad reputation for its treatment of slaves.

The period under the Imperial British East Africa Company (IBEAC) began in 1887 when the Company acquired a 50-year lease from the Sultan of Zanzibar for territories in East Africa. The company administered the area, collected taxes and had rights over minerals found. Bell Smith was sent to the town as officer for the Company and he began to lobby for the abolition of the slave trade. From around 1890, slaves who wished and were able to, could buy their freedom. For those who could not, the company offered jobs, or found paid employment. Relatively few took up the opportunity and the process was a gradual one. With the Protectorate government abolishing the status of slavery in 1907, merchandise trade developed, and in the early 20th century the most important exports were rubber, grain, ivory, hides and horns.

During the second half of the British period the foundations were laid for what is now Malindi’s most important industry – tourism. The first hotel, Brady’s Palm Beach Hotel, opened in 1932, and famous visitors included Ernest Hemingway in 1934. In the 1960s, Malindi became a popular place to live for the European population, many of whom were retired farmers from the highlands. The first charter flight from Europe flew to the Kenyan coast in 1972, when there were just five hotels in Malindi, but by 1976 the hotel bed capacity in the town had tripled and hotels had been built at Watamu Beach. Malindi became very popular with Europeans, especially Germans and Italians and the latter are today estimated to own some 3000 properties and businesses in the area such as private villas, restaurants and nightclubs, which have not been altogether welcomed by the local people. As a result it is in Malindi that you will find some of the finest espresso coffee, Parmesan and hams to be found in Kenya, but the combination of these European trappings and the old Swahili town gives Malindi a somewhat Jekyll and Hyde character and may not be everybody’s cup of tea. Indeed the Italian attachment to this town that baffles both visitors and locals is so strong that at the height of recent violence in the country over the 2007 elections, the Italians demanded that their government drop the adverse travel advisory against Kenya, and while most of the towns in Kenya were still reeling from the effects of this recent chaos, Malindi had almost fully recovered its tourist industry only three weeks after the skirmishes. On the downside, there are also rumours of a mafia presence in Malindi and in 2004, there was a high-profile drugs bust when Kenyan police seized a consignment of US$6 million worth of cocaine destined for Europe from a private villa and two Italians and five Kenyans were arrested. Additionally, sex tourism in Kenya is at its most acute and brazen in Malindi, which sits very uncomfortably on the traditional Muslim coast.

Getting around

You can either organize day trips through the hotels, or else try the public transport in the way of tuk-tuks and boda bodas. Both these are surprisingly efficient, cheap and easy to find in Malindi at any time of day or night. The main parts of town are relatively safe, even at night, but exercise caution away from the main tourist areas, however, and take a taxi if going further afield.

Ins and outs

Getting there

There are also bus/matatu services from Mombasa daily.

Malindi

Air

Malindi Airport is 2.5 km from the centre of town, T042-31201, http://www.kenyaairports.com, and is served by 4 airlines, and by chartered planes for safaris.

Air Kenya, has 1 daily flight between Malindi and Nairobi that departs Nairobi at 1530, arrives in Malindi at 1730, departs at 1745 and arrives in Nairobi at 1855.

Fly 540, has 1-2 daily flights between Malindi and Nairobi (1 hr 15 mins) from US$79 1 way, and at least 2 daily flights between Mombasa and Malindi (15 mins) from US$30 1 way.

Kenya Airways, has daily flights between Malindi, Nairobi and Lamu. The flight departs Nairobi at 1100, arrives in Malindi at 1215, departs at 1240 and arrives in Lamu at 1315. It then departs Lamu at 1340, arrives at Malindi at 1410, and departs for Nairobi at 1440, where it arrives at 1555. It is a popular route so be sure to book well ahead and confirm your seat.

Mombasa Air Safari, has daily flights between Malindi, Mombasa and Lamu. The flight departs Mombasa at 0800, arrives at Malindi at 0845, departs at 0845 and arrives in Lamu at 0915. On the return leg it departs Lamu at 1700, arrives in Malindi at 1730, departs at 1750, and arrives in Mombasa at 1810.

Airline offices

Air Kenya, Wilson Airport, Nairobi, T020-605 745, http://www.airkenya.com. Fly 540, Mombasa, T041-343 4822, http://www.fly540.com. Kenya Airways, on Lamu Rd opposite Barclays Bank, T042-20237, at the airport, T042-20192, www.kenya- airways.com. Mombasa Air Safari, Moi International Airport, T041-343 3061, www.mombasa airsafari.com.

Bus

There are plenty of buses between Malindi and Mombasa. The bus companies all have offices in Malindi around the bus station, but booking is not usually necessary. They mostly leave early in the morning and take about 2½-3 hrs. Non-stop matatus are faster, and take under 2 hrs. They leave when full throughout the day.

The bus to Lamu takes about 5 hrs and costs about US$8. They leave in the morning between 0800 and 1000. These buses will usually have come from Mombasa. Pwani Tawakal Bus Company, T042-31832, http://pwanitawakal.com, is recommended for the Lamu service and they have 3 services a day in both directions; the office is opposite the Kobil petrol station near the market. Try and buy the ticket the day before you want to travel to guarantee a seat. The bus will take you to the jetty on the mainland from where you get a ferry across to Lamu .

Safety

In the 1990s, there were security problems, including fatalities, with armed bandits known locally as shifta hijacking and robbing vehicles on the road to Lamu. However there hasn’t been an incident for a number of years and these days it is considered safe to travel by bus from Malindi to Lamu, though on the last stretch of road towards Lamu, armed guards hop on the buses.

Tuk-tuks and boda bodas

All over Malindi are cheap tuk-tuks that cost no more than US$2 from 1 end of town to the other. There are also plenty of bicycle taxis known as boda bodas with a single seat on the back that will cost no more than US$1. There used to be car-hire companies in Malindi, and indeed bicycle hire, but with the introduction of what is excellent public transport, they have become defunct.

Banks

There are a number of banks in Malindi. Barclays is on the main coastal road (the Lamu road) opposite the (closed) Blue Marlin Hotel and is open Mon-Fri 9000-1500, and Sat 0900-1100. It has an ATM. There is also a Standard Chartered Bank, just to the south of here. Kenya Commercial Bank is also on Lamu Rd on the opposite side to Barclays. There are several forex bureaus in town including one in the Galana Centre and Dollar, next to the Standard Chartered Bank.

Immigration

Opposite the curio market T042-20149.

Internet

Intercommunications, and YNet, both on Lamu Rd, offer email access, as does the post office, but the fastest connection is at the Book Cafe, in the FN Centre on Lamu Rd, which also sells a good range of books and serves cold drinks and ice cream.

Medical services

Malindi District Hospital, Tourist St, T042-20490. Buhani Pharmacy, Uhuru St, near Uhuru Gardens.

Post office

Opposite the police station on Kenyatta Rd and is open Mon-Fri 0800-1700, Sat 0900-1200.

Tidal information

Posted at Customs and Excise, near the jetty.