Siwa Oasis travel guide

Background

Siwans, currently numbering 27,000, have always been fiercely independent; the oasis only officially became part of Egypt in the 19th century. It has been inhabited, with reliance on the 200 and more fresh, salt, warm and cold springs, since Palaeolithic times. The economy is based on agriculture, dates (the Sa’idi date is preferred for eating) and olives, the date palms bearing fruit in 10 years and the olives in five. Water supply is from natural springs; no pumping is necessary but the springs are capped to provide some control as, ironically, surplus water is a serious problem. Quarrying, transport, trade (and smuggling) are also important and there is an increasing revenue from tourism but labour costs are high as labourers have to be brought in and need food and accommodation.

The people of Siwa are extraordinary, retaining customs and traditions from centuries past, as well as their own language, Siwi, a Berber dialect with Algerian roots. The old script can still be seen embroidered down the centre of ceremonial scarves and clothes, but the ability to decipher it has been lost and the symbols are now used merely as decoration. Traditional Siwan music and singing is haunting and beautiful, incorporating the muzmar, two bamboo pipes that produce five notes by blowing through two mobile reeds and the shababa, an iron pipe, 70 cm long with six holes akin to a recorder.

The Oscar-winning The English Patient, has drawn attention to this area. With increased tourism, the building of an Olympic Pool and stadium that seats 20,000 (complete but not yet open) and the upsurge of luxury hotels, there have long been plans to open the adjacent military airport that guards the nearby Libyan border to commercial traffic. This is rumoured to be happening in 2009 and could increase the visitors, currently about 100 a week, to vast numbers to be accommodated in planned luxury tourist villages and almost certainly damage the very essence of this remote area. Locals dread the day. Visit before it’s too late.

Getting around

You can easily cycle, or hire a karetta. A couple of places rent motorbikes, though the sandy roads necessitate a bit of experience and a great deal of concentration. Safaris to the outlying villages and springs require a jeep, and trips are easily arranged through most hotels, restaurants and shops.

Bus

The bus station (open 24 hrs) and taxi halt are next to the tourist office at the entrance of town. There are 5 a/c West Delta buses daily to Marsa Matruh (0700, 1000, 1300, 1500 (winter) or 1700 (summer), 2200, E£12), 3 of which carry on to Alexandria (0700, 1000, 2200, E£27). There is 1 bus direct to Cairo on Thu at 2000, E£55, 9 hrs. Buy your tickets at least 2 hrs in advance. If travelling on the 0700 or the Cairo bus, buy them the night before to ensure you have a seat. Minibuses for Marsa Matruh leave when full from in front of the new mosque, and also cost E£12.

For the 420-km journey direct to Bahariyya across the desert road, it’s E£1200 per vehicle for the 6 to 8 hr trip, max 4 people. The majority of vehicles crossing are jeeps (4WD is essential), which leave in convoy from the military intelligence office at 0700. Permits need to be sorted out a day in advance (you’ll lose a day with Fri) via the tourist office or your driver will arrange them, US$£5 per person plus an E£11 admin fee.

Donkey carts

Donkey carts, or karettas as they are called here, are for hire everywhere. Expect to pay around E£15-20 for a quick round-trip journey to nearby sites like the Temple of Amun or Fatnas Island. For long waits, pay an additional E£10, more at night. A ride from the bus station to a hotel in town shouldn’t cost more than E£5.

Taxi

Service taxis bound for the coast leave daily, generally around mid-morning and late afternoon. For longer distances, there are service pickup trucks that will shuffle visitors around the oasis. They are generally found in front of the tourist office. You’ll find the most options in the early morning.

Ins and outs

Getting there

It is possible to approach Siwa from Bahariyya but a reliable 4WD vehicle is essential. The trip takes between six to eight hours, depending on stops, and the cost for the car is E£1200. Enquire at the tourist office on either end of the route if you want to make the 420-km journey. There is one bus direct from Cairo per week, leaving at 1945 from Turgoman station, nine hours, otherwise you will have to change in Alexandria.

Information

Note With its customs unchanged for centuries, untarnished by the world around, a heightened sensitivity is called for when visiting Siwa. You will quickly see how modestly many Siwan women dress, covered from head to toe in a voluminous blue shawl with sheer black fabric covering their faces – and women visitors are requested to keep legs and upper arms covered. Women travellers should further be aware that walking alone (although perfectly safe) is still regarded as odd behaviour by oasis dwellers, as only a small percentage of married Siwan women even venture out the home and then only to visit family and friends. Also bear in mind that it is unacceptable to take photographs of Siwan women. Alcohol and affection are forbidden in public.

Banks

Bank du Caire, just north of the town centre, change money but there’s no ATM, Sun-Thu 0830-1400, T046-460 0748. Most hotels will buy euro and dollars.

Internet

There are a few internet cafés scattered around the town centre, the going rate at present is E£9-10 per hr.

Post office

Located near the tourist office, 0830-2100.

Telephone

Central phone station open 24 hrs, near the tourist office. It’s also possible to use the phones at most hotels.