Abu Simbel travel guide

The rock tombs of Abu Simbel are undoubtedly among the most magnificent monuments in Egypt

Abu Simbel, 280 km south of Aswan and only 40 km north of the Sudanese border is the site of the magnificent Sun Temple of Ramses II and the smaller Temple of Queen Nefertari. With the exception of the temples, hotels and the homes of tourist industry employees, there is almost nothing else here. That is part of its charm, as is the immediate warmth of the locals that’s so refreshing after the cut-and-thrust of Aswan. The village is centred around a couple of little eateries-cum-ahwas where the bus drops people off, with a modern souk to one side and the cheapest hotels within walking distance. The temples are about a 20-minute walk away, past the banks and post office. It is an attractive sultry little place, utterly sleepy except when the tours are passing through, where swathes of turban are de rigeur for men and you see women wearing traditional Nubian black net dresses decorated with weaving. The setting on the banks of Lake Nasser is beautiful, with heart-shattering rocks meeting the sapphire water, enhanced by the many green gardens dotted around and the single-storey white-washed dwellings. It’s true there are no beds at rock-bottom prices (though if you want to spoil yourself, the Eskaleh could be the place to do it) but you have to accept that you are going be shelling out to see the temples anyway. Altogether, the African atmosphere, dearth of independent travellers, and chance of seeing the temples in total isolation makes Abu Simbel an excellent overnight stop.