Dahab, meaning ‘gold’ in Arabic, still manages to shimmer despite the march of progress. Known for its laxness with regard to marijuana, unfathomably cheap accommodation and food, and a super-chilled backpacker vibe, people used to come here to get stoned, go diving, and kick back – for weeks at a time. Though the place is still Dahab, things are changing. The Sinai tourist authority, with the hope of bringing in more money and the tourists who have it, initiated a ‘Sharm-ifying’ of the area and required many establishments to trade off their beach-front cushions and Bedouin-style seating areas for ‘proper’ tables and chairs. The sandy walkway along the beachfront has been replaced with a paved promenade (lit by Arabesque lamps that invariably don’t work) and wooden stalls have turned into marble-fronted shops as prices are hiked. The changes haven’t impacted on the entire bay, though, and many proprietors have been creative and managed to retain the former flavour. Newcomers and old-timers will still find beach cafés, bazaars and mosques amid Bedouin huts, crumbling concrete camps, and palm trees. Local Bedouin girls sell bracelets, while their fathers and brothers hawk camel rides and invite curious visitors for tea in the desert. Some fancier hotels are sprouting up, offering a wider range of accommodation for a wider range of humanity. Thankfully, despite the influx of construction and tourism, the magic of the sea, sun and stars remains unsoiled. Dahab is still a gem of a place where time dissolves into tea and smoke and the ever-changing colours of the surrounding peaks.
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