Islamic Cairo travel guide

Cairo initially developed as a series of extensions and walled mini-cities that radiated in a northeast direction from the original encampment of Fustat outside the walls of the Babylon-in-Egypt fortress. Built with defence purposes in mind, the streets of the Islamic city are narrow and, in addition to looming Mamluke mausoleums and age-old mosques on every corner, the feeling of having stepped back in time is deepened by the ceaseless trading, shouting and everyday life all around. Congested with hissing men pushing hand-carts and shuffling shoppers laden with bags, scented with spices and criss-crossed by cats, getting lost in the ancient alley-ways is what this city is all about. It’s a pity that the ambiance on some of the main streets (notably near the Khan on Sharia Muski and Sharia Al-Muizz) is being eradicated by the concerted restoration efforts that are in effect. The streets of Gamaliya are being repaved with slippery cobbles and pavements have taken the place of onion and garlic stalls, resulting a more artificial air that long-time visitors to Cairo will find upsetting. Designated a pedestrian zone between 0600-2400, shopkeepers can now only receive deliveries in the depths of night and the chaos that defined Islamic Cairo might be dimmed as palm trees are planted and faux-Arabesque street lighting takes the place of swinging single light-bulbs. Fortunately, these changes haven’t encroached too far into the mayhem as yet, and south of Al-Azhar the streets are still an absorbingly dirty labyrinth filled with the rickety tables of vendors and hoardes of people browsing in the shadows of Mamluke mosques.

There are literally hundreds of mosques in Cairo – the city of a thousand minarets – and it is difficult for any visitors to know where to begin. Broadly speaking, the most important sights to visit in Islamic Cairo lie in a broad belt to the east of the main Sharia Port Said. Take as much small change with you as you can gather as, although entry to almost all mosques is free, a bit of baksheesh is expected if you climb minarets. People might demand E£10 or even E£20, but E£3 is acceptable (E£5 if you have taken a particularly long time). It can also enable you to wheedle your way into sights that are not yet officially open to the public.

The easiest way to get to Islamic Cairo is by taxi or microbus. Taxis from the centre should cost around E£5. Public bus services around Al-Azhar have essentially ceased with the government’s attempt to lessen congestion in the area. Walking from Downtown is interesting and easy. From Midan Ataba, there are two routes. You can either stroll along Sharia Al-Azhar (under the flyover) or wander down the fascinating, jam-packed and narrow Sharia Muski, which eventually winds up in the Khan El-Khalili (both routes take 15-20 minutes).

Islamic Cairo is a particularly conservative area so it’s wise to dress especially modestly. Women should wear clothes that cover their legs and arms and should bring along a headscarf for use in mosques. Men should avoid shorts and sleeveless T-shirts. Shoes must be removed for entry into mosques....read more