Cairo travel guide

Since the Arab conquest in AD 641 Egyptians have called both the city and the whole country ‘Misr’ (pronounced masr), the ancient Semitic name for Egypt and also mentioned in the Koran. ‘Al-Qahira’ (’the Victorious’) is the city’s official but less commonly used name, derived from Al-Qahir (Mars), because the planet was in ascendance when the Fatimids started the construction of their new city in AD 971. In medieval times, this became corrupted by Europeans to Cairo, the Latin version of the name.

Although Cairo itself is younger than Alexandria, the surrounding region has a very ancient and impressive past. Memphis, 15 km south of Cairo across the Nile, was established as the first pharaonic capital in 3100 BC and during this period huge necropoli were developed, starting with Saqqara and culminating with the largest of all pyramids at modern-day Giza. During the New Kingdom, another cult centre known as On, or Heliopolis to the Greeks, and later Aïn Shams (Spring of the Sun) by the Arabs, was developed further north when a canal was cut between the Nile and the Red Sea. It took the Roman occupation to subdue the influence of Memphis and Om, when Emperor Trajan (AD 98-117) recognized the strategic importance of the east bank fortress town of Babylon-in-Egypt and a thriving community soon sprang up around its walls. During the subsequent Christian era Memphis was completely abandoned never to rise again, while Babylon became the seat of the bishopric and the west bank village of Giza grew into a large town.

When the Arabs conquered Egypt in AD 641, they were given specific instructions by Khalifa Omar in Damascus to establish their administrative capital in Babylon rather than at the Christian stronghold of Alexandria. The general Amr ibn Al-As built his encampment (or Fustat) in the middle of a deserted triangular plain bounded by Babylon in the south, Aïn Shams (ancient Heliopolis) to the northeast and Al-Maks (the Customs Point), now the site of Ramses Station, to the northwest. The Amr mosque was the first of a number of new and permanent buildings that were erected as the plain was developed and the city rapidly grew in size and importance. It is thought that the name Misr was used in order to distinguish it from the many other towns called Fustat in the Arab world.

By the time the Fatimid heretical Shi’a invaders arrived from North Africa in AD 969, only the south of the plain had been developed. Their military commander, Gohar, therefore chose to build a new walled city (which included the Al-Azhar mosque, palaces, pavilions and gardens for the sole use of the khalifa, his family and retainers), about 1.5 km north of the Fustat complex and called it Al-Qahira. Two centuries later in AD 1168 calamity struck Fustat when, fearing occupation by the invading Crusaders, the vizier Shawar set fire to the city. Over 54 days the fire almost totally destroyed Fustat whose inhabitants fled to Al-Qahira and constructed temporary housing. Three years later the last Fatimid khalifa died and his vizier, the Kurdish-born Salah Al-Din, assumed control of the country and founded the Sunni Muslim orthodox Ayyubid Dynasty (AD 1171-1249). He expelled the royal family from Al-Qahira, which he then opened up to the populace, and soon it became the commercial and cultural centre.

Salah Al-Din actually only spent one third of his 24-year reign in Cairo. Much of his time was spent fighting abroad where he recaptured Syria and eventually Jerusalem from the Crusaders in 1187, finally dying in Damascus in 1193. Yet he still found time to expand the walls surrounding the Fatimid city and built the huge Citadel on an outcrop of the Muqattam Hills, which became the city’s nucleus and remains the focal point of the Islamic city to this day.

Under Mamluk rule (AD 1250-1517) the city grew rapidly to become the largest city in the Arab world. As the east bank of the Nile continued to silt up, the newly elevated areas provided additional space that was developed to house the expanding population.

Under the Ottomans (AD 1517-1798) both Cairo and Alexandria were relegated to the position of mere provincial cities with little in the way of public building undertaken in the whole of the 17th and 18th centuries. This changed, however, with the combination of the arrival of the French in 1798 and the coming to power in 1805 of the Albanian-born Ottoman officer Mohammed Ali. As part of his ambitious plan to drag Egypt into the modern world by introducing the best that Europe had to offer, he embarked on a project that included a huge public building programme in Cairo and turned it into a large modern capital city.

The combination of very rapid population growth and extensive rural migration to the city, particularly since the Second World War, has completely overwhelmed Cairo. It has totally outgrown its infrastructure and today a city, intended to house only two million people, is home to perhaps 16 million, with at least a million more commuting in every day. The result is that the transport, power, water and sewage systems are completely inadequate and hundreds of thousands live wherever they can find shelter including the infamous ‘Cities of the Dead’ cemeteries. What is amazing is that, despite all its problems, this ancient city actually functions as well as it does and that in adversity the Cairenes are so good natured and friendly.

Banks

The vast majority of banks are in Downtown, or in more affluent districts such as Mohandiseen, Zamalek, Dokki or Heliopolis have ATMs that accept foreign cards, as do all high-end hotels. 5-star hotels are also a good place to change traveller’s cheques or foreign currency, and you will see plenty of money- changing shops in any commercial area. Barclays, Citibank, and HSBC all have a presence in the city, with branches in Garden Ctiy and Zamalek. Western Union (Money Transfers), 8 Sharia El-Slamlek, Garden City, T02-792 0741, T02-792 1691.

Cultural centres

American, US Embassy, 5 Sharia America Al-Latiniya, T02-2794 9601. Open Sun-Thu.

British, British Council, 192 Sharia El-Nil, Agouza, T19789, http://www.britishcouncil.org.eg. Open Mon-Sat. Has an excellent library that can be joined for a minimum of 6 months, E£120, plus 1 photo and ID.

Cervantes, 20 Sharia Adly, Kodak Passage, Downtown, T02-2399 04639.

CSA, 4 Road 21, Maadi, T02-2358 5284, http://www.livinginegypt.org. Open Sun-Wed 0900-2100, Thu 0900- 1700. Provides information and support for the expat community in Egypt. Gym, library, outings, courses and coffee shop.

Egyptian Centre for International Cultural Cooperation, 11 Sharia Shagaret El-Dor, Zamalek, T02-2736 5419.

French, 1 Sharia Madraset El-Hoquq El-Faransia, Mounira, T02-2794 4095, T02-2794 7679 and 5 Sharia Sharfiq El-Dib, Heliopolis, T02-2417 4824.

German, Goethe Institute, 5 Sharia Bustan, Downtown, T02-2575 9877.

Indian, 23 & 37 Sharia Talaat Harb, Downtown, T02-2393 9152. Has yoga classes, a library and screens Bollywood movies.

Italian, 3 Sharia Sheikh El-Marsafi, behind Marriott Hotel, Zamalek, T02-2735 8791. Open Sun-Thu.

Japanese, 3rd Floor, Cairo Centre Building, 106 Sharia Qasr El-Aini, Garden City, T02-2792 5011.

Swiss Club, Villa Pax, Sharia Gehad, off Sharia Sudan, Imbaba, T02-3314 2811.

Embassies and consulates

Most consulates take a 2-day weekend, between Thu and Sun. Australia, World Trade Centre, Sharia Corniche El-Nil, Bulaq, T02-2575 0444; Austria, 5 Sharia Wisa Wasef, El-Riad Tower, Giza, T02-3570 2975; Belgium, 20 Sharia Kamel El-Shenawi, Garden City, T02-2794 7494; Canada, 26 Sharia Kamel El-Shenawi, Garden City, T02-2794 3110/9; Denmark, 12 Sharia Hassan Sabri, Zamalek, T02-2735 6490; Eritrea, 6 Sharia El-Fellah, Mohandiseen, T02-3303 3503; Ethiopia, 2 Midan Al-Misaha, Dokki, T02-3335 3696; France, 29 Sharia Morad, Giza, T02-3570 3919; Germany, 8B Sharia Hassan Sabri, Zamalek, T02-2735 0283; India, Consulate (visa services, applications from 0830-1130 and collections between 1230-1330), 37 Sharia Talaat Harb Downtown, T02-23925162 Israel, 6 Sharia Ibn Malek, near El-Gamaa Bridge, Giza, T02-3761 0548; Jordan, 6 Sharia El-Basem El-Kateb Off Sharia El-Tahrir, Dokki, T02-3749 9912; Kenya, 29 Sharia El-Qods El-Sharif, off Sharia Shehab, Mohandiseen, T02-3345 3628; Kuwait, 12 Sharia Nabil El-Waqqad, Dokki, T02-3760 2661; Lebanon, 22 Sharia El-Mansour Mohamed, Zamalek, T02-2738 2823; Libya, 7 Sharia El-Saleh Ayoub, Zamalek, T02-2735 1269; Morocco, 10 Sharia Salah El-Dein, Zamalek, T02-2735 9849; Netherlands, 18 Sharia Hassan Sabri, Zamalek, T02-2739 5500; Saudia Arabia, 5 Sharia El-Gehadya, Garden City, T02-2795 8111; South Africa, 55 Road 18, Maadi, T02-2359 4365; Spain, 41 Sharia Ismail Mohammed, Zamalek, T02-735 3652, 7355813; Sudan, 3 Sharia El-Ibrahimi, Garden City, T02-2794 9661 (you may need a letter of recommendation from your own embassy); 1-month single-entry tourist visas cost US$100 and can be paid in E£, processing takes at least 1 day, longer for US citizens; Switzerland, 10 Sharia Abdel Khalek Sarwat, Downtown, T02-2575 8284; Syria, 18 Sharia Abdel Rehim Sabri, Dokki, T02-3749 5210; Tunisia, 26 Sharia El-Gezira, Zamalek, T02- 2736 8962; UK, 7 Sharia Ahmed Raghab, Garden City, T02-2794 0852; USA, 5 Sharia America Al-Latiniya, Garden City, T02-2797 2301.

Emergencies

Ambulance: T123. Fire: T125. Police: T122. Major police offices: at Railway Station, Cairo Airport, Midan Tahrir, Sharia 26 July/Mansour Mohammed, Pyramids. Tourist Police: T126. Tourist Police Head Office: T02-390 6027.

Immigration

Visa extensions can be obtained at the grey monstrosity of the Mugamma building on Midan Tahrir, Downtown, Sat-Thu 0800-1430. This generally involves taking your documents in first thing in the morning and collecting in the afternoon around 1400 (or the next day before 1200). You need a photocopy of the last page of your passport, a copy of the last stamp of entry, 1 passport photo (photocopying and photo booths available in the foyer of the Mugamma). For a 6-month single entry it currently costs E£11, 6-month multiple entry is E£80.

Internet

The vast majority of hotels have internet services, and in budget hotels they are as cheap as going to an internet café. 4U Internet Café, 6 Midan Talaat Harb, Downtown, open 0830-1300, E£5/hr; Café Internet, 8 El-Mamar El-Togary, Sour Nady El-Zamalek, Mohandiseen, open 1000-2400, E£6/hour; Hany Internet Café, 16 Sharia Abdel Khaleq Tharwat, Downtown, E£2/hr; Internet House, above Metro supermarket, Sharia Ismail Mohamed, Zamalek, 0800-0200, E£6/hr and Sigma Net next door, which is a bit more expensive but open 24 hrs and they are quite clued up; Starnet Cyber Café, 18 Sharia Youssef El-Guindy, El-Bostan Centre, Downtown, open 1000-2400, E£6/hr.

Language schools

Arabic classes available at: International Language Institute, 4 Sharia Mahmoud Azmy, off Ahmed Orabi, Mohandiseen, T02-3346 3087, http://www.arabicegypt.com; Kalimat Language & Cultural Centre, 22 Sharia Mohamed Mahmoud Shaaban, Mohandiseen, T02-3761 8136, http://www.kalimategypt.com, very well regarded, set up a few years ago by former teachers at the British Council; Egyptian Centre for International Cultural Cooperation, 11 Sharia Shagarat El-Dor, Zamalek, T02-2736 5419, cheapest (48 hrs for E£950) but not the best.

Medical services

Hospitals and clinics

Cairo Medical Centre, 4 Sharia Abou Obeida El-Bahr, Midan Roxy, Heliopolis, T02-2258 1003/0566; Anglo-American Hospital, by Cairo Tower, Gezira, T02-2735 6162. As-Salam International Hospital, Corniche El-Maadi, T02-2524 0250; Dar al-Fouad Hospital, Sixth of October City, has excellent facilities though it is a E£30/½-hr ride in a taxi from central Cairo, T02-835 6030/40; El-Salam Hospital, 3 Sharia Syria, Mohandiseen, T02-3302 9091-5, also the place to go if you need an X-ray; Dr Neveen El-Hafnawy Clinic, 10 Sharia Souria, Mohandiseen, T02-3761 6905, for gynaecological issues; Shaalan Surgicenter, 10 Sharia Abd El-Hamid Lotfi, Mohandiseen, T02-37485479, Sat-Thu 0900-2200.

Pharmacies

Ali and Ali, 9 Outlets, T02-27604277, open 24 hrs, delivery service; Isa’f Pharmacy, Sharia Ramses, T02-574 3369, open 24 hrs, no delivery; Maa’soud, 29 Sharia Mahmoud Shahk, Heliopolis, T02-633 2630, 0900-1500, delivery; New Universal Pharmacy, 12 Sharia Brazil, Zamalek, T02-2735 4896, 0900-2400, delivery; Zamalek Tower Pharmacy, 134 Sharia 26 July, Zamalek, T02- 2736 1338, 1030-1530, 1800-2300, delivery.

Post office

Cairo’s main post office is in Midan Ataba, open Sat-Thu 0800-2100 (Ramadan 0900-1600). The post office at Midan Ataba also has a poste restante office, that will hold mail for a month, free. Enter via Sharia El-Badek and look for the ‘private boxes’ counter. There are other branches, but they tend to be more crowded. Major hotels often provide the same services. If you have an American Express card, you can send mail via AmEx on Shari Qasr El-Nil. Stamps available at post offices and from hotel shops and cigarette kiosks. Postcards cost E£1.50 to send anywhere in the world and letters E£3.

Packages are best sent off from the Midan Ramses post office (counter open Sat-Thu 0800-1500). Bring your parcel unsealed so it can be searched. Packaging is possible in the post office for a few extra E£.

Couriers: Aramex, T02-3338 8466; DHL, 38 Sharia Abdel Khaliq Sarwat, Downtown, T02-2302 9801 plus offices in Garden City; Federal Express, 16 Sharia Khaled Ibn El-Walid, Masaken Sheraton, Helipolis, T02-2268 7888/999, and 3 Sharia Salah Jahin, Mohandiseen, T02-3302 7656.

Telephone

Besides the international telephone and fax services at all major hotels, there are several public telecom centres where it’s possible to make international phone calls for cheaper, but the wait can be long. Main offices are at Sharia Adly, near the tourist office, Sharia Ramses, near Sharia Tawfiqia, and 13 Midan Tahrir. To avoid the hassle of the telecomm- unication centres, you can buy a public or private phone card. Public cards can be bought from the telecom centres (E£10-20) and can be used from any telephone with or without a direct line to call long distance. Make sure you specify if you want a card for street booths or a home phone. There are also private pre-paid cards available from every kiosk and supermarket. Most pervasive around Egypt are the yellow and green Menatel booths. Cards range in price from E£5-20. A E£10 card will cover about 20 mins of local calls. International calls can cost up to E£10 per min.

Considering its size, getting around Cairo is quite easy. The centre, known as Downtown, is a condensed area and walking is a good way to see the heart of the city. There is a local bus service, metro system, and a profusion of cheap taxis. A few air-conditioned buses that run on the major thoroughfares connect the main midans (squares) to Heliopolis and the airport. They are a bit more expensive than the public buses (E£2), but more pleasant to use. For the truly adventurous traveller, the inner-city buses and minibuses (50 pt-1.50 pt) cover every inch of Cairo. They are generally so crowded that people literally hang out of doors, and as they rarely come to complete stops, courageous riders must run and jump to hop on. There are also microbuses that are private van-like vehicles that transport passengers through the maze of Cairo (50 pt-E£1). There is usually a driver and a navigator that shouts the destination out of a moving van. When it suits you, motion to the van and they’ll stop. You can also shout out where you want to go and if it’s en route, they will enthusiastically let you on. If you see a large collection of people at what looks like a bus stop, just tell someone where you want to go and they will go out of their way to put you on the right bus/micro or at least point you in the right direction.

As one of the world’s most crowded and noisy cities, arriving in Cairo can be a daunting experience. Authorities have worked hard to eliminate the once all-pervading hustle on arrival at the airport, taxi drivers are no longer permitted to pick up rides from the curb and other would-be hustlers are left outside if they don’t flash the necessary identification. Still, upon reaching the pavement outside the airport, independent travellers may encounter a barrage of unsolicited offers from self-declared tour guides, drivers, hotel vendors, and the like, seeking to take advantage of an unschooled newcomer. Breathe deeply, avoid eye contact, firmly say la’a shukran (no, thank you), and stick to your plans. Bear in mind that Cairo is an exceptionally safe city and violent crime is virtually non-existent. The greatest thing to fear is getting severely overcharged for a taxi ride or being lured to a dingy hotel room. With a day or two meandering around the city, you’ll figure out how things work soon enough. The easiest way to dodge such happenings from the outset is to work out in advance where you’re going and how you intend to get there.

Despite what any taxi driver at the airport will tell you, it is possible to take public transport into the city. Buses and minibuses gather by the bus stop, about 300 m in front of Terminal 1, visible as you exit. If you’re heading downtown or to Giza, the most comfortable option is to take one of the air-conditioned buses (E£2). Between 0700-2300, bus No 356 goes from the airport to Midan Ramses and on to Midan Tahrir. Further public buses, a little cheaper and a bit more uncomfortable, run from Terminal 1 through the night: minibus No 27 (E£1.50) runs from the airport to Midan Tahrir; bus No 948 (E£1) runs to Midan Ataba (on the outskirts of central Cairo). If you arrive at Terminal 2 and want to take public transport, a free 24-hour shuttle bus connects the two terminals. These line up outside arrivals and, about three minutes after setting off, reach a roundabout by a parking lot where a bus stop has been constructed. Get off here and catch an onward bus to Cairo. There is also a bus direct from the airport to Alexandria costing E£35.