Alexandria travel guide

Background

Having conquered Egypt by 332 BC, Alexander the Great, who was still only 25 years old, commissioned his architect Deinocrates to construct a new capital city on the coast. He chose a site near the small fishing village of Rhakotis as its natural harbour and proximity to his native Macedonia offered significant strategic and commercial advantages over Memphis. It is said that Alexander sprinkled flour on the ground to mark out a street plan, and took it as an ominous omen when a flock of unruly birds disturbed his scatterings. However, what emerged was the first Egyptian city to be built to the Greek design, with two major roads running north–south and east–west intersecting in the city centre and the rest of the town built around them in rectangular blocks, as can be seen in almost any modern North American city. A causeway linking the city to the island of Pharos created two huge harbours and Alexandria became a major port.

Alexander never saw his city. He travelled to Asia after instructing his architects and eight years later he was dead after allegedly drinking from a poison-laced chalice. The priests at Memphis refused him burial, so his body was sent to Alexandria instead, though the final location of his tomb has never been ascertained. After Alexander's death his whole empire was divided amongst his various generals. Ptolemy l Soter (323-282 BC) started the Ptolemaic Dynasty (323-30 BC) in Egypt, and Alexandria became a major centre of Hellenistic culture, attracting many of the great and good, acquiring significant social, historical, and commercial importance throughout the Graeco-Roman period.

The Greeks integrated well with the Egyptians and created a new hybrid religion known as the cult of Serapis. Cleopatra VII (51-30 BC), the last of the Ptolemies, seduced first Julius Caesar and then his successor Mark Antony in order to retain her crown. Mark Antony and Cleopatra held sway in Egypt for 14 years until they were deposed by Octavian who became the Emperor Augustus.

Tradition has it that the Gospel was first preached in Alexandria by Saint Mark in AD 62. Whatever the accuracy of this date, Christianity was certainly established around this time and Alexandria remained the centre of its theology for three centuries. However, its presence was still sufficiently threatening to the Muslim conquerors three centuries later to make them move their administration and theological capital inland to Cairo. Although Alexandria was still important as a centre of trade its decline as a city was inevitable when the power base, along with the customary baggage of wealth, learning and culture went south.

With the 16th century discovery of America and the sea route around Africa to India and the Orient, which made the land route via Egypt virtually redundant, Alexandria lost its former magnificence. The Dutch traveller Cornielle Le Bruyn, in 1702, found the city "almost wholly ruinated ... and having but a few houses inhabited". Indeed, the decline during the Ottoman period was so great that while Cairo continued to flourish, the population of Alexandria fell to a mere 5000 people by the end of the 18th century. It was easy enough for Napoleon to take the city in 1798, and thus began a new influx of foreign influences and interests.

A saviour was found in the shape of Mohammed (Mehmet) Ali (1805-1848). He organized the construction of the El-Mahmudiya Canal starting in 1819 and linked the Nile and Alexandria's Western Harbour, reconnecting the city with the rest of Egypt, while simultaneously irrigating the surrounding land, which had been badly neglected. With a trade route open, foreign trade grew apace with the Egyptian merchant fleet and was later maintained by the British. The British also invested in many building projects including, true to the Victorian obsession, a sea-front promenade.

Population growth and industrialization have altered Alexandria since Nasser's revolution in 1952. The 35 different nationalities that prospered here were soon dispersed, and the ethnic, religious and cultural mesh that once defined Alexandria unravelled. Yet, today it is a modern city still with much to recommend it. Although the outer areas have suffered from too rapid rural-urban migration, the busy central area is small enough to walk around and become familiar with the main squares and landmarks. Although Alexandria's opulent heritage is no longer so obvious, the aura of the town that inspired such literary classics as Lawrence Durrell's Alexandria Quartet still remains. So don't rush immediately to all the places of interest. It is as important to absorb the atmosphere as it is to view the sights.

Best time to visit

The Mediterranean climate diverges radically from the rest of Egypt. The northern winds deliver quite a chill in the winter, just as they offer respite in the summer. Alexandria is the only place in Egypt you may need a jacket in July.

Getting around

Alexandria is a thin ribbon-like city whose residential areas are still largely bound by the El-Mahmudiya canal and Lake Maryut. At the city's western end is the El-Anfushi peninsula, which divides the giant functional Western Harbour and the beautiful sweeping curve of the Eastern Harbour and its Corniche. To the east is a series of beaches that stretch to the Montazah Palace and on to Ma'mura beach and eventually Abu Qir, site of Nelson's 1798 victory over the French fleet. The city's main downtown area, its main transport terminals and many of the hotels are in the blocks around Midan Sa'ad Zaghloul in El-Manshiya, just inland from the Eastern Harbour. There is a useful tram service around the city, masses of buses and microbuses, and cheap taxis abound. Considering its size and that the population more than doubles in the summer, Alexandria is remarkably easy to navigate. Places aren't too far distant and with the coast to the north, locating attractions is simple.

Ins and outs

Getting there

Nouzha airport, serving domestic flights, is about 10 km from the town centre. A few international flights arrive at Borg Al-Arab airport, over an hour out of the city. Intercity buses to Alexandria all terminate at the new bus station in Muharram Bey, from where a taxi costs E£10-15 to central destinations. There are at least 12 trains daily from Cairo to the main Misr station. Service taxis stop either near Misr or at Midan Orabi, both fairly central.

Alexandria

Air

Nouzha airport, southeast of the city off the main Delta road to Cairo on land reclaimed from Lake Maryut, has 3 flights per week to Cairo; 2 per week to Hurghada and Sharm El-Sheikh (Mon and Fri). Borg Al-Arab airport, 1 hr out of the city, T03-486 2607, has flights to Athens, Frankfurt and many cities in the Gulf.

Note

Considering the time wasted at airports and the travel time to and from, it is certainly as quick, and much, much cheaper to travel by bus or train to Cairo.

Airline offices

El-Nozha Airport, T03-427 1036, 03-427 2021. Air France and KLM, 6 Sharia El-Horiyya, T03-486 8547/8, open Sat-Thu 0800-1630. Alitalia, 6 Sharia Mahmoud Azmy, T03-487 0847, open 0900-1600. EgyptAir, 19 Midan Sa’ad Zaghloul, T03-486 5701. Lufthansa, 9 Sharia Talaat Harb, T03-486 2607, open 0900-1630. Olympic Airlines, 19 Midan Sa’ad Zaghloul, T03-482 1014.

Bus

Local

Public buses are the most used form of transport by Alexandrians. Tickets cost 25 pt to E£1, depending on how far you ride. They are almost always crowded and are difficult to negotiate. A better option are microbuses, a slightly less rugged way to travel inside the city and you are guaranteed a seat. Journeys along the Corniche are 50 pt-E£1 depending how far, just flag down one of the many passing by. Other microbus hubs are Midan El-Khartoum, Misr railway station and Midan Orabi. Advertise your destination and someone will direct you to the right bus.

Long distance

All West Delta, T03-480 9685, and Superjet, T03-428 9092, buses now arrive and depart from the Moharram Bey terminal (in Arabic El-Mowaf Gedida or the new terminal) on the outskirts of the city and not from Sidi Gaber as in the past. A taxi costs E£10-15 from downtown to the terminal. The platforms and system are chaotic at present, but Delta buses are serviced from the offices nearest to the entrance and Superjet offices are towards the middle of the station. West Delta and Superjet buses leave every hour to Cairo from 0600-0100, 3 hrs. Tickets cost E£23-27, depending on departure time, for an additional E£12 you can be dropped off at Cairo International Airport. Other destinations are Siwa: West Delta, 0730, 1100, 1300, 9 hrs, E£27-30. Marsa Matruh: West Delta, hourly service from 0700-2000, 4 hrs, E£22-25. Sollum: West Delta, several per day from 0730-0130, E£27. Port Said: West Delta, 0600, 0800, 1100, 1600, 1800, E£22-25. Ismailia: West Delta, 0700 and 1400, 4 hrs, E£25. Suez: West Delta, 0630, 0900, 1430, 1700, 5 hrs, E£25. Safaga: 0730 and 1830, via Ras Ghareb (E£75), Zafarana (E£75) and Hurghada (E£80) then Safaga, about 9 hrs (E£85). Buses also run to Tripoli in Libya several times a week, for about E£250, and to other destinations in the Gulf. Superjet and Delta offices at Muharrem Bey can provide schedules, should you wish to take on such a journey overland. Al Gouna Transport, T03-420 5290, still run 4 buses per day to Cairo from behind Sidi Gaber train station (where they have an office), at 0500, 0800, 2100 and 2400, 3 hrs, E£20

Car hire

Avis, Sofitel Cecil, T03-485 7400, open 0800-2200. A/c car hire for E£200 per day including tax and insurance

Taxis

Local

Black and yellow taxis can be caught throughout the city. Taxi rides in Alexandria are cheaper than in Cairo, expect to pay around E£5 for a 10-min ride, E£10 for 20 mins, etc.

Long distance

Service taxis depart from Moharram Bey terminal, on the outskirts of town. Accessible by minibus from Midan El-Gumhoriyya (25 pt) or taxi (E£5-10) the terminal serves all North Coast tourist destinations. Drivers call out their destinations. There is regular service to: Marsa Matruh (hourly, 0630-2100, E£10-15); El-Alamein (hourly, 0800-1500); Borg El-Arab (every 30 mins, 0630-2000); Rashid (hourly, 0700-1900); Wadi Natrun (hourly, 0700-1600). There are service taxis to Cairo from near Sidi Gaber railway station throughout the night, leaving when full, listen for the men shouting ‘Misr’ by the coffee shop to the left of the station, E£17.

Train

Local

Trams go from El-Raml station just to the east of Midan Sa’ad Zaghloul. A cheap way to cut long distances across the city and a scenic way to travel if you can afford the time. They run from dawn until 2400. Popular tram routes are: No 15 from El-Raml Station to Ras El-Tin; No 25 from Sidi Gaber to El-Raml Station and Ras El-Tin; Nos 1 and 2 from El Raml east to Victoria, No 3 from St Catherine’s Square to Moharram Bey; No 10 from St Catherine’s Sq to El-Nozha; No 16 from St Catherine’s Sq to Karmouz.

Long distance

Alexandria has 2 train stations. The main Misr Station, T03-392 1233, is in the city centre. Sidi Gaber Station is to the east, about a 15-min taxi ride from El-Raml station. Trains to and from Cairo stop at both stations. To Cairo, there are many slow non-a/c trains each day, stopping everywhere en route. Tourists, however, will be directed to the 1st- and 2nd-class a/c ticket office to the left of platform 1. The Italian Turbini train is direct and fast, leaving at 0800, 1400 and 1900 (1st: E£45, student E£35; 2nd: E£29, student E£25; 4 hrs); the Espani costs the same and is direct or makes 1 stop, departing 0700, 0815, 1100, 1500, 1930 and 2215. The Faransawi makes 3 stops, departing 0600, 1000, 1300, 1530, 2000, extra trains during summer on Thu, Fri, Sat at 2030 and 2130 (1st: E£35, student E£25; 2nd: E£19, student E£15; 3 hrs). It is possible to book advance tickets in Alexandria for the sleeper trains from Cairo to Luxor/Aswan, which leave from Giza daily at 2000 and 2110, single US$80, double US$60 per person for an actual bed in a cabin. Sleeper trains sometimes run direct from Alexandria, for an extra US$5, at 1720, taking around 12 hrs to Luxor, 15 hrs to Aswan. Tickets can also be booked online at http://www.sleepingtrains.com. From Jun-Sep there is a west-bound train to El-Alamein and Marsa Matruh, leaving at 0600, but you’re better off taking the bus.

Banks

Central branches of Bank of Alexandria at 59 Sharia Sa’ad Zaghloul and 6 Sharia Salah Salam, open Sun-Thu 0830-1400. Bank Misr, 9 and 18 Sharia Talaat Harb. Banque du Caire, 16 Sharia Sisostris and 5 Sharia Salah Salam. All have cash machines, and further ATMs are easy to spot all over the city. Foreign banks include: American Express, 10 Sharia Beatrice Lumumba, T03-395 0918; Citibank, 95 Borg El-Silsila, El-Azarieta, T03- 4875236; NSGB, 240 Sharia El-Geish, Roshdi, T03-545 2352; Thomas Cook, 15 Midan Sa’ad Zaghloul, T03-484 7830, for changing travellers’ cheques.

Embassies and consulates

Denmark , 20 Sharia Beatrice Lumumba, T03-490 6000. France, 2 Midan Orabi, T03-480 9038. Germany, 5 Sharia Kafr Abdu, Roushdi, T03-486 7503. Netherlands, Sharia Mohamed Mas’oud, T03-422 4877. Spain, 101 Sharia El-Horiyya, T03-393 9185. UK, 3 Sharia Mena, Rushdi, T03-546 7001.

Immigration

Passport Office: 25 Sharia Talaat Harb, T03-484 7873, for renewing visas, open Sat-Thu 0800-1430.

Internet

Cyber cafés are constantly going in and out of business, but there are so many in Alexandria that you’ll easily find one.

Medical services

Egyptian-British Hospital, Sharia Mohamed Baha’ El-Deen El-Ghatwari, Semouha, T03-420 7230. German Hospital, 56 Sharia Abd El-Salam Arif, T03-584 1806, http://www.germanhospital.net. Somouha Medical Centre, Sharia 14 May, Semouha, T03-427 2652. University Hospital, Kolleyet El-Tib St, T03-486 1861.

Post office

The main post office is next to Misr Station, in the new building to the right of the entrance, open Sat-Thu 0800-2000, T03-496 0088. There’s also a convenient office at El-Raml tram station, open till 2100, and at Sidi Gaber train station, T03-546 5169. DHL, 14 Sharia Omar Lutfi, Sporting, T03-427 1148. FedEx, Sharia 281 El-Horiyya, Sporting, T03-427 2312.

Telephone

There are Menatel telephones on every street, cards can be purchased from supermarkets, pharmacies and kiosks for denominations of E£5, E£10, E£20. International calls can be made from the telecom exchange at El-Raml Station, open 24 hrs, and the telecom office opposite Misr Station. International calls from hotels are trouble free but are slightly more expensive. Calls are always cheaper after 2000.