Saba travel guide

Background

History

Saba was first discovered by Columbus on his second voyage in 1493 but was not colonized. Sir Francis Drake sighted it in 1595, as did the Dutchmen Pieter Schouten in 1624 and Piet Heyn in 1626. Some shipwrecked Englishmen landed in 1632, finding it uninhabited. In 1635 the French claimed it but in the 1640s the Dutch settled it, building communities at Tent Bay and The Bottom. However, it was not until 1816 that the island became definitively Dutch, the interregnum being marked by 12 changes in sovereignty, with the English, Dutch, French and Spanish all claiming possession.

People

Although the island was once inhabited by Caribs, relics of whom have been found, there is no trace of their ancestry in the local inhabitants. The population is half white (descendants of Dutch, English and Scots settlers) and half black. Their physical isolation and the difficult terrain has enabled them to develop their ingenuity for self sufficiency and to live in harmony with their environment. Originally farmers and seafarers, the construction in 1963 of the Juancho E Yrausquin Airport on the only flat part of the island, and the serpentine road which connects it tenuously to the rest of the island, brought a new and more lucrative source of income: tourism.

The island’s geographical limitations have meant that tourism has evolved in a small, intimate way. About 24,000 tourists visit each year, most of whom are day trippers. There are only 100 beds available in the hotels and guesthouses, as well as a few cottages to rent. Those who stay are few enough to get to know the friendliness and hospitality of their hosts, who all speak English, even though Dutch is the official language. Currently, the major source of income is the US Medical School, opened in 1993, which attracts over 250 (mainly US) students from overseas, who spend about US$1,000 a month. Development is small scale; the island still merits its unofficial title, ‘the Unspoiled Queen’. There is no unemployment among the workforce of 600. The island is spotlessly clean; the streets are swept by hand every day.

Getting around

There are no buses on the island but you can hire a jeep or car. It is about 1½ hour’s hike from the airport up to Windwardside, through different scenery, vegetation and climate. There are taxis at the airport and a few others around the island. They can be hired for tours (US$40) and the drivers are knowledgeable guides.

Ins and outs

Getting there

From Sint Maarten, Saba is 20 minutes by air or 1½ hours by sea. Saba claims to have the world’s shortest commercial airport runway (400 m). Large aircraft cannot be accommodated. Planes do not land in bad weather in case they skid off the end. Sit up front behind the pilots for an excellent view of Saba when landing. On windy days the boat crossing can be very rough.

Saba

Air

Winair, the only scheduled airline, has 5-6 daily 15-min 19-seater flights from St Maarten, some of which come via St Eustatius. You must reconfirm your return flight. Buy on-line at http://www.fly-winair.com.

Boat

A deep-water pier at Fort Bay allows cruise ships to call. Two ferries cross from Sint Maarten: The Edge is good for day trips or if you have overnighted in Sint Maarten; Dawn II leaves later, meaning that if you land at Juliana airport early afternoon you can get to Saba the same day by boat.

Dawn II, T599-4163671, www.sabac transport.com. Ferry crossings Tue, Thu, Sat leaving Saba at 0630, returning from Dock Maarten, Philipsburg at 1700, one-way ticket US$35, round trip US$60. A/c cabin with 22 seats. Get there 30 mins before departure.

The Edge, T599-5442640, www.stmaarten- activities.com, sails Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat and Sun at 0900, check in 0815, from Simpson Bay/Pelican Marina, St Maarten, returns 1530, arrives St Maarten 1700, US$45 one way, US$65 return, children half price.

Car

Driving is on the right.

Car hire

at Caja’s Car Rental, The Bottom, T499-4162318, takijah77@hotmail.com. Rates approximately US$50 per day.

Taxi

at the airport.

Banks

There are no ATMs on the island. FirstCaribbean, Windwardside, T599-4162216. Mon-Fri 0830-1530, exchange, advances, transfers, TCs. RBTT, Windwardside, T599- 4162454. Mon-Fri 0830-1530.

Internet

Island Communication Services Business Centre, next to RBTT, Windwardside, opposite Scout’s Place and post office, Mon-Fri 1000- 1900, Sat 1000-1700, US$5 per 30 mins, also video rental.

Medical services

Hospital, T599-4163288. Doctor, Ms Anita Radix, T599-4163289. Saba Marine Park Hyperbaric Facility, T599-416 3295, serving the Eastern Caribbean.

Telephone

Most hotels have direct dialling worldwide, otherwise calls can be made from Landsradio phone booths in Windwardside or The Bottom.