Saint-Martin/Sint Maarten travel guide

Background

History

The Amerindians who originally settled on the island named it Sualiga, meaning land of salt. The belief that Columbus discovered the island on his second voyage in 1493 is disputed, with historians now claiming it was Nevis he named St Martin of Tours, and that later Spanish explorers misinterpreted his maps. The Spanish were not interested in settling the island and it wasn’t until 1629 that French colonists finally arrived in the north, and 1631 that the Dutch were attracted to the salt ponds of the south. In the absence of the departed Caribs, the two nationalities lived amicably together. Spain then reconsidered and occupied Sint Maarten from 1633-1648, fending off an attack by Peter Stuyvesant in 1644 which cost him his leg.

When the Spanish left, the Dutch and French settlers returned and after a few territorial skirmishes, they divided the island between them with the signing of the 23 March 1648 Treaty of Mount Concordia. Popular legend has it that the division of the island was settled with a race starting from Oyster Pond: The Frenchman went north and the Dutchman went south, but the Frenchman walked faster because he drank only wine while the Dutchman’s penchant for genever (a drink similar to gin) slowed him down. Since 1648, however, Sint Maarten has changed hands 16 times, including brief occupations by the British, but the Dutch-French accord has been peaceably honoured at least since it was last revised in 1839.

At the height of its colonial period, sugar cane and livestock were the main agricultural activities, although the poor soil and lack of rain meant they were not very profitable. The abolition of slavery in 1863 broke up the plantation system and the population began to decline as ex-slaves left to look for work elsewhere. Most of the salt produced from the Great Salt Pond behind Philipsburg was exported to the USA and neighbouring islands, but by 1949 this industry had also ended and a further exodus to other islands took place. The remaining population survived on subsistence farming, fishing and remittances from relatives abroad.

However, in 50 years the island has become unrecognizable. Hotels, resorts, villas and guesthouses now line the shore and there is no bay untouched by tourism. Cruise ship passengers, day trippers and stayover visitors are attracted by the duty-free shopping, casinos and a wide range of accommodation, as well as the beaches and watersports. Little of historical interest remains, but this has not hindered the tourist industry, which is among the most successful in the region. For those who want more than sun, sand and sea, the island’s well-developed transport links make it an excellent jumping-off place for visiting other islands.

In 1994 the electorate on the Dutch side were asked whether they wished to remain part of the Netherlands Antilles, have separate status within the kingdom (like Aruba), have complete integration with the Netherlands, or be independent. At the referendum, 59.8% voted for the status quo, while about 30% wanted separate status. This was the lowest vote in favour of remaining in the Federation, compared with 90.6% in St Eustatius, 86.3% in Saba, 88% in Bonaire and 73.6% (in 1993) in Curaçao. In April 2000 the electorate once again was asked whether they wished to remain part of the Netherlands Antilles or become independent. A majority of around 60% voted for ‘status aparte’. Changes are gradually being implemented throughout the Netherlands Antilles, an entity which will cease to exist .

People

The population of at least 77,000 (41,000 in Sint Maarten and 36,000 in Saint-Martin) has mushroomed with the tourist boom: the 1950 Sint Maarten census gave the total population as 1484. While many of the residents were formerly ex-patriates who returned to their island, there is a large proportion who have come from other Caribbean islands to work. Few people speak Dutch, the official language of Sint Maarten, although Papiamento has increased with the migration of people from the ABC Dutch islands. Nearly everybody speaks English and there is a large Spanish-speaking contingent of workers from the Dominican Republic. The French side is noticeably Gallic and fewer speak English.

Getting around

There are buses between Philipsburg on the Dutch side and Marigot on the French side as well as to the main towns on the French side. There is no regular bus service between Philipsburg and the airport. However, occasional buses run from Philipsburg to Mullet Bay, past the airport, US$1.50. Taxis are available for short journeys and island tours. There can be a shortage of cars or jeeps for hire in high season. It is advisable to request one from your hotel when you book the room. Out of season car rental is inexpensive. Traffic is very heavy, not just at rush hour, and there are frequently traffic jams, so allow plenty of time for a journey.

Ins and outs

Getting there

International flights arrive at the Juliana Airport on the Dutch side. Sint Maarten has good long-distance air connections, with charter and scheduled flights from Europe, the USA and the Caribbean. It is used as a jumping-off point for many of the smaller islands in the area which do not have the capacity to receive large aircraft, such as Saba or Anguilla. A taxi to Marigot will cost about US$15. On the French side is the Espérance Airport which can only take 20-seater light planes for short hops to neighbouring islands. There are good ferry connections with both Anguilla and St-Barthélemy most days. It can be an unpleasant trip to the latter. If rough, take the plane.

Saint-Martin/Sint Maarten

Air

The international airport is Princess Juliana, at Simpson Bay. A new terminal opened in Nov 2006 with duty- free shops, restaurants, bar and spa. Flight information T599-5455757. A taxi into Philipsburg costs US$10-15 and to Marigot US$15.

Airline offices

Most offices are on the Dutch side at Juliana Airport, American Airlines, T599-5452040. Air France, T599-545 4212, 590-(0)590-510202. Caribbean Airlines, T599-5454646. Continental, T599-5453444. KLM, T599-5454747. Caribbean Star/LIAT, T599-5454203. US Airways, T599-5454344. Winair, reservations, T599-5454230, flight information, T599-5454210, 800-6344907.

Boat

There are no long-distance sea communi- cations except cruise ships which usually stay 5-9 hrs. Boats to Anguilla, Saba and St-Barts, leave from the French side. Voyager, T590-(0) 590-871068, http://www.voyager-st-barths.com, daily high-speed ferries leave from Marigot (75 mins, 2 daily Mon-Sat) and Captain Oliver’s marina, Oyster Pond (40 mins, 2-4 daily) to St-Barts. Credit cards accepted. Look out for special deals. Ferries from Marigot Waterfront to Anguilla leave at least every 30 mins.

Bus

There is a fairly regular bus service from 0700 until 2400 between Philipsburg and Marigot (US$1.50), French Quarters and St Peters, and from Marigot to Grand Case on the French side. After 2000 there are few buses. The best place to catch a bus is on Back St. Buses run along Back St and Pondfill and in towns only stop at bus stops. Outside towns, however, just wave to stop a bus. Fare is usually US$1 in town, US$1.50 for short trips, US$3 for long trips. There is no regular bus service between Philipsburg and the airport although the route to Mullet Bay Resort passes the airport. Buses on this route run mostly at the beginning and the end of the working day (although there are a few during the day) and drivers may refuse to take you, or charge extra, if you have a lot of luggage.

Car and bike

Foreign and international driving licences are accepted. Drive on the right. The speed limit is 40 kph in urban areas, 60 kph outside town, unless there are other signs.

Car hire

Many car hire companies have offices at the airport or in the hotels; free pick- up and delivery are standard and you can leave the car at the airport on departure. Prices range from US$35-55 per day. Companies include all the international names and several local firms: Cannegie Car Rental, T599-542 2397; Empress Rent-a-Car T599- 5443637; Safari Rentals, T599-5453185, safari@sint maarten.net; Alamo, T599- 5455546; Paradise, T599-5453737. Both tourist offices have full lists.

Scooter/motorbike hire

Super Honda, Bush Rd Cul-de-Sac, T5425712; Moped Cruising, Front St, T5422330; OK Scooter Rental, at Maho Beach Hotel and Cupecoy Resort, T5442115, 5444334; Concordia, T871424, from US$20 per day including helmets and insurance. If you have a heavyweight motorcycle licence, you can rent a Harley Davidson for US$112 a day at Super Bikes, 71 Union Rd, Cole Bay.

Taxi

There are plenty of taxis, which are not metered so first check the fare, which is fixed according to your destination (the island is divided into zones) and number of people. Tip 10-15%. Trips to beaches or tours of the island can be arranged with taxi drivers. From Philipsburg (or Marigot) to Juliana Airport US$12, to Dawn Beach US$18, Mullet Bay US$16, Marigot to Grand Case US$10, Marigot to Oyster Pond, US$25, all for 2 passengers, additional passengers US$4, luggage extra, children under 12 half price. Night tariffs are an extra 25% 2200-2400, an extra 50% 2400-0600. Pick up taxi at the square next to the Courthouse in Philipsburg, T599-5422359, Juliana Airport, T599-5454317, or dispatch office, T147, in Marigot, T590-(0)590-875654, in Grand Case, T590-(0)590-877579.

Banks

Banks on St-Martin include Banque des Antilles Françaises (BDAF) and Banque Française Commerciale (BFC). There are exchange houses for changing from euros to dollars in rue du Kennedy, Marigot, and in the Marina Royale complex. In Philipsburg on Sint Maarten, Scotiabank, Windward Islands Bank, FirstCaribbean International Bank, RBTT Bank, Antilles Banking Corporation. There are lots of ATMs, including one at the airport taxi rank dispensing guilders, US dollars or euro.

Internet

Tel Net, Front St, Philipsburg, 0730-1200, internet US$3 per hr, also phones and phone cards. Cyberzone, Emmaplein, Philipsburg, opposite Jump Up casino, internet café upstairs, lots of computers, good comfy seats, US$2.50 per hr. Notions, The Mailbox on the airport road near Simpson Bay. St Maarten Yacht Club Marina Business Centre and Simpson Bay Marina Business Centre have computers and email service. Starbucks coffee shop in the Maho area has a cybercafé.

Medical services

Concordia Hospital, Saint-Martin T590-(0)590-295757/ 522525. Ambulance, T590-(0)590-292934/ 771391. Cay Hill, Sint Maarten, T140, or T599-5431111. 60 beds, a haemodialysis department and 24-hr emergency services. A helicopter airlift to Puerto Rico is available for extreme medical emergencies.

Telephone

To call the Dutch side from the French use the international code 00599 followed by the 7-digit number. To call the French side from the Dutch use the international code 00590- 590 followed by a 6-digit number. Calls from one side of the island to the other are expensive. When calling within the Netherlands Antilles, dial 0 before the 7-digit number. There are several telephone booths on the French side but they only take telephone cards. 120 units for 13.7, sold at the post office and at the bookshop opposite. There are 8 telephones on the square in Marigot and 2 in Grand Case in front of the little pier. Telephone cards for the Dutch side of the island can be bought at Landsradio (Tel em) telecommunications office in Cannegieter St, open 0700-2400, or at Landsradio’s offices at Simpson Bay, Cole Bay and St Peter’s. Note that card phones at Juliana Airport, although marked as ‘téléphone’ and displaying instructions in French, do not work with French phone cards. The GSM network covers both the Dutch and French sides.