Fort-de-France travel guide

Fort-de-France was originally built around the Fort St-Louis in the 17th century. The settlement’s first name was Fort-Royal and its inhabitants are still called Foyalais. The city of today consists of a crowded centre bordered by the waterfront and sprawling suburbs extending into the surrounding hills and plateaux. The bars, restaurants, and shops give a French atmosphere quite unlike that of other Caribbean cities. Traffic is very dense. Most people live in the suburbs and even the discos are out of the old town centre, which is deserted at weekends after Saturday midday. However, a new commercial centre is underway downtown, and improvements to the waterfront are almost complete.The port is to the east of the town centre, where the Baie du Carenage houses the naval base, yacht club, cargo ships and luxury cruise liners.

The impressive Fort St-Louis still functions as a military base. Built in Vauban style, it dominates the waterfront. It is still an active military base and has been closed to the public after the 9/11 terrorist attack in New York. Adjacent to the fort is La Savane, the old parade ground, a 5-ha park planted with palms, tamarinds, and other tropical trees and shrubs, is having an elegant makeover. The park contains statues of two famous figures: Pierre Belain d’Esnambuc, the leader of the first French settlers on Martinique, and Empress Josephine (now beheaded by Independentistes), first wife of Napoléon Bonaparte, who was born on the island.

The Parc Floral et Culturel (which includes the Galerie de Géologie et de Botanie and the Exotarium) (Mon-Fri 0900-1230, 1430-1730) e1.75 adults, e0.50 children, T0596-706841, is a shady park containing two galleries, one of which concentrates on the geology of the island, the other on the flora, and mid-19th-century wooden barracks now housing 11 workshops for local artisans. Almost 2,800 species of plants have been identified in Martinique and the Parc Floral has a very good selection. Next to the Parc Floral are a feature of Fort-de-France not to be missed, the markets. The fishmarket is by the Madame River, facing the Place José Martí, where fishermen unload from their small boats or gommiers. Close by is one of several markets selling fruit, vegetables and flowers as well as exotic spices. The markets hum with activity from 0500 to sunset, but are best on Friday and Saturday....read more