Panama City travel guide

History

Panama City was founded in 1519 by Pedro Aria Dávila, thus establishing a Pacific base for the conquest of Peru. Spanish troops and plundered Inca gold flowed in and out, bringing unprecedented wealth to the city – and unprecedented attention from pirates. In 1671, Henry Morgan raised it to the ground. Fortunately, Panama City rose from its ashes three years later at the strategically advantageous location of present-day Casco Viejo, several kilometres away.

In 1855, the transcontinental railroad was opened, adjoining Panama City with its Caribbean cousin, Colón. Crowds of gold prospectors poured across the isthmus en route to California. By then, Panama City’s ethnic make-up had changed irrevocably, with Chinese and Afro-Caribbean railroad labourers settled into permanent communities. In 1882, the French arrived on the scene to much fanfare and jubilation. They constructed several elegant mansions and commenced work on the Panama Canal, expending many thousands of employees and nearly bankrupting France in the process. The US took over the project and initiated a new phase of efficiency. They drastically improved the city’s sanitation, eradicated yellow fever and brought malaria under control. New waves of immigrant workers arrived from all over the world, but the Caribbean especially, and racial tensions were high. The canal company operated out of a US-governed 16-km wide Canal Zone stipulated in their treaty with Panama, a ‘country within a country’, to which belonged the thoroughly ordered districts of Ancón, Balboa and Amador. The Canal Zone would be a source of ongoing resentments, and, in 1964, rioting.

In the 1970s and 1980s, the city’s skyline mushroomed as it gained prominence as a centre of international banking, cocaine trafficking and money laundering. President Manuel Noriega and the Colombians enjoyed several years of criminal prosperity until George Bush decided to initiate a full-blown invasion on 20 December 1989. Many historical buildings were damaged or destroyed during ‘Operation Just Cause’. Today the city is experiencing exceptionally high levels of growth, partly fuelled by plans to expand the Canal. Soaring energy demands and high levels of traffic are placing particular strain on the infrastructure.

Safety

Tourist police on mountain bikes are present in the downtown areas of the city, recognizable by their broad armbands. Panamanians are generally very friendly and helpful. Accustomed to foreigners, they are casual about tourists. However, as in any large city with many poor people, certain areas can be dangerous after dark and reasonable precautions should be taken at all times. Attacks have been reported in Casco Viejo (although this area is now well patrolled by police during the daytime) and Panamá Viejo. Marañón (around the market), San Miguelito (on the way in from Tocumen Airport) and Calidonia can all be dangerous; never walk there at night and take care in daylight, too. Poor districts such as Chorillo, Curundú and Hollywood are best avoided altogether. Probably the safest area for budget travellers to stay is Bella Vista, although it is deserted after dark and street crime can take place here at any hour. Taxis are the safest way to travel around the city and drivers will give you good advice on where not to go. If concerned, lock the doors of the taxi.

Getting around

The old part of the city, Casco Viejo, can easily be toured on foot. There are old, usually crowded and very cheap buses for getting to other districts. The reasonably priced taxis charge on a zone system and can be shared if you wish to economize. Taxis can be hired by the hour for a city tour. At night, radio taxis are preferable. Many avenidas have both names and numbers, although locals are most likely to use the names, so asking for directions can be a bit complicated. Also, because there is no postal delivery to homes or businesses, few buildings display their numbers, so try to find out the nearest cross street.

The wider metropolitan area has a population of approximately 720,000. Adjacent to the city, but constituting a separate administrative district, is the town of San Miguelito, a residential area for over 330,000 people. Once a squatter community, every available square inch of hillside has been built on and it is increasingly considered to be a part of greater Panama City.

Ins and outs

Getting there

Tocumen International Airport is 27 km from the city centre. For flights see page . Set price taxis (US$25), shared taxis (compartido) and buses are available for getting into Panama City. The bus journey should take 1 hr but can take up to three in the rush hour. Car rental companies also have offices at the airport. If arriving by air from another part of the country, the domestic airport is Marcos A Gelabert airport, located in Albrook; a taxi to the city centre costs US$2-3. The city is also well served by international buses from countries throughout Central America, with offices in the centre of town and at the bus terminal, also in Albrook; US$2 taxi into the city centre.

Panama City

Air

International flights

Tocumen International Airport (PTY), 27 km, http://www.tocumenpanama.aero. Official taxi fare is US$25 to or from Panama City, maximum 2 passengers in same party, US$14 each sharing with 1 other, or US$10 per person if you share making it a colectivo. US$2 extra if you go by the toll road – much quicker. Bargaining is possible with regular cabs but not with tourist taxis at the airport.

From airport to city, walk out of the terminal and across the main road to the bus shelter. Another option is to walk 300 m to the traffic circle where there is a bus shelter (safe but hot during the day). For about US$3 (should only be US$1.20) driver takes you by Panamá Viejo, just off the main airport road.

Buses to the airport are marked ‘España- Tocumen’, 1 hr, US$0.35, but if going at a busy time, eg in the morning rush hour, allow 1½-3 hrs.

There is a 24-hr left-luggage office near the Budget car rental desk for US$1 per article per day (worth it, since theft in the departure lounge is common). The official IPAT tourist office at the airport remains open to meet late flight arrivals. There are duty-free shops at the airport with a wide selection and good prices. Most facilities are found in upper level departure area Banco Nacional de Panamá, Cable & Wireless office for international phone, fax and internet access); car rental is downstairs at Arrivals.

Aerolíneas Argentinas, Vía Brasil y Av Ramón Arias, T269-3815; AeroMéxico, Av 1BNorte, El Cangrejo, T263-3033; Air France, Calle Abel Bravo y 59 Obarrio T269-7381; Alitalia, Calle Alberto Navarro, T269-2161; American Airlines, Calle 50 Plaza New York, T269-6022; Avianca, 223-5225; Aviatur, T315-0311; Cathy Pacific, Av 1-B Norte, El Cangrejo, T263-3033; Continental, Av Balboa y Av 4, Ed Galerías Balboa, Planta Baja, T263-9177; Copa, Av Justo Arosemena y Calle 39, T217-2672; Cubana, Av Justo Arosamena, T227-2291; Delta, Edif World Trade Centre, Calle 53E, Marbella, T214-8118; Grupo Taca, Centro Comercial Camino de Cruces, Local 2, Vía Ricardo J Alfaro, T360-2093; Iberia, Av Balboa y Calle 34, T227-3966; KLM, Av Balboa y Calle Uruguay, Edif Plaza Miramar, T264-6395; LAB, Calle 50 No 78, Ed Bolivia, T263-6771; LanChile, Calle 72, San Francisco, T226-7119; Lufthansa, Calle Abel Bravo y 59 Obarrio, Ed Eurocentro, T269-1549; Mapiex Aéreo, T315-0344; Mexicana, Vía Argentina, Ed Torre el Cangrejo oficina 64, T264-9855; United Airlines, Bella Vista, L-1, T225-6519.

Domestic flights

These operate from Marcos A Gelabert airport at Albrook in the Canal Area. There is no convenient bus service, taxis charge US$2-3. Good self-service café especially for fried breakfast before early flight to San Blas. Aeroperlas, reservations T315-7500, www.aeroperlas. com, operates daily flights to 17 destinations throughout the country. Air Panama, T316-9000, www.flyair panama.com, have flights to 22 destinations, including San José in Costa Rica. Mapiex Aéreo, sales T315-0344, http://www.mapiex.com, operates private charters to several destinations throughout the country including many Darién outposts. Rodolfo Causadias of Transpasa, T226-0842, is an experienced pilot for photographic work.

Bus

Local

The traditional small buses known as chivas, consisting of locally made wooden bodies grafted onto truck chassis, have all but disappeared. Most buses in urban areas are second-hand US school buses brightly painted in fanciful designs, but in poor condition. They are known as diablos rojos (red devils) and are notorious for roaring engines and aggressive drivers. Most out- bound (east) buses travel along Av Perú, through Bella Vista, before fanning out to their various destinations. Inbound (west) buses travel along Vía España and Av Central through the Calidonia shopping district. The basic fare is US$0.25, usually paid to the driver upon descending; if there is a fare box, deposit upon entering. To stop at the next authorized stop, call out ‘parada‘ to the driver.

Long distance

All buses apart from the Orange buses leave from the clean and efficient bus terminal in Albrook, near the domestic airport. Taxi US$1.50-2 to centre. Facilities at the vast terminal include ATMs, internet access, clothes shops, luggage shops, bakeries and basic restaurants.

Most long-distance buses are fairly modern and in good condition. Except for the longest routes, most are 24-seater ‘Coaster’-type minibuses. Check if a/c on next bus out is functioning. Offices are arranged in long line from right to left in the terminal.

Orange buses to all Canal Area destinations (Balboa, Miraflores, Paraíso, Kobbe, etc) leave from SACA terminal near Plaza 5 de Mayo; from the Plaza, walk past the National Assembly tower and turn left.

From the Gran Terminal de Transporte, Albrook (T232-5803): Bocas del Toro, 0800 (Mon, Fri, Sat, Sun) and 2000, 12 hrs, US$24; Chame/San Carlos, every 15 mins, 0530-2000, US$2.70; Chitre, hourly, 0600-2300, 3½ hrs, US$7.50; Colon, every ½ hr, 0330-2130, 2hrs, US$2-2.50; David, hourly, 0530-0000, US$12.50-15; Darién, 4 daily, US$14; El Valle, every ½ hr, 0445-2100, 2 hrs, US$3.50; Las Tablas, hourly, 0600-1900, 5 hrs, US$8; Paso Canoas (border with Costa Rica), 10 daily, 8 hrs, US$14; Penonomé, every 15 mins, 0445-2245, 2¼ hrs, US$4.50; Santiago, every ½ hr, 0600-2300, 3½ hrs, US$7.50.

International

Buses going north through Central America get booked up so reserve a seat in advance and never later than the night before departure. Ticabus, in the Gran Terminal de Transporte, Albrook, T314-6385, http://www.ticabus.com, run a/c buses to San José, daily at 1100, arriving at 0200 the next day, US$25 one-way (but check times and prices which change at regular intervals); continuing to Managua, US$45; Tegucigalpa, US$65, and on as far as Tapachula on the Mexico-Guatemala Pacific coast border, US$110, via Guatemala City, US$95 (3½ days, overnight in Managua and El Salvador). Tickets are refundable; they pay on the same day, minus 15%. Panaline to San José from the Albrook Gran Terminal, T314-6383, leaves daily at 2200 arriving at 1530 the following day, US$25. You can also travel with Padafront , T314-6263, http://www.padafront.com, Panama City-Paso Canoas then change to Tracopa or other Costa Rican buses for San José and other destinations en route to the Costa Rican capital.

Car

Several major downtown arteries become one-way during weekday rush hours, eg Av 4 Sur/Calle 50, one-way heading west 0600-0900, east 1600-1900. The Puente de las Américas can be used only to go into or out of town depending on time and day, mostly weekends; these directions are not always clearly signed.

Car rental

At the airport: Avis, T238-4056; Budget, T238-4068; Dollar, T238-4032; Hertz, T238-4081 and National, T238-4144.

In El Cangrejo: Avis, Vía Venetto, T264-0722; Barriga, Edif Wonaga 1 B, Calle D, T269-0221; Budget, T263-9190; Dollar, T269-7542. Gold, Calle 55, T264-1711; Hertz, Hotel Sheraton, T226-4077 ext 6202, Calle 50, T264-1111, El Cangrejo T263-6663; International, Vía Venetto, T264-4540.

Cycling

Almacén The Bike, Calle 50 opposite Telemetro. Good selection of cycle parts.

Taxi

Service is generally good, but can be scarce during peak hours and many drivers have little clue where many streets are – it’s good to have a rough idea of the address location; voluntary sharing is common but not recommended after dark. If a taxi already has a passenger, the driver will ask your destination to see if it coincides with the other passenger’s. If you do not wish to share, waggle your index finger or say ‘No, gracias’. Similarly, if you are in a taxi and the driver stops for additional passengers, you may refuse politely. Overcharging is common and official fares are based on a zone system: US$1 for 1 passenger within 1 zone, US$0.25 for each additional zone.. Additional passengers US$0.25 each regardless of zones; sharing passengers each pay full fare. Panamanians rarely tip, but foreigners may add US$0.25-0.50 to the fare. Hourly hire, advised for touring dubious areas, US$10 per hr. Radio taxis summoned by telephone are highly recommended. They are listed in yellow pages under ‘Taxis’. Add US$0.40 to fare for pick-up. ‘Tourist taxis’ at major hotels (aged, large American cars with ‘SET’ number plates) have a separate rate structure: they are more expensive than those you flag down.

Train

A luxury train now runs daily from Corozal Passenger Station in Panama City to Colón US$22 one way, US$44 return, 0715, returns 1715, 1¼ hrs. Turn up on the day or book in advance through tour operators. More details available at http://www.panarail.com. A cab to the station from Panama City costs about US2.50.

Banks

Try to avoid 15th and last working day of the month – pay days. Panamanian banks’ hours vary, but most open Mon-Fri 0800-1500, Sat 0800-1200. Visa T264-0988; MasterCard T263-5221; Diners T263-8195. Algemene Bank Nederland changes Thomas Cook TCs. American Express, Agencia de Viajes Fidanque, Av Balboa, Torre Banco BBVA, Piso 9, T225-5858, Mon-Fri 0800-1715, does not exchange TCs. International Service Center, T001-800-111-0006. ATM for withdrawals at Banco Continental near hotel of same name. Banistmo, Calle 50, Mon-Fri 0800-1530, Sat 0900-1200, changes TCs, no commission on AMEX, US$5 per transaction for other TCs. Banco General takes American Express, Bank of America and Thomas Cook TCs, 1% commission, minimum US$2 per transaction. Branch at Av Central y 4 Sur (Balboa) can be used for cash advances from ATMs on Visa. Bank of America, Vía José de la Cruz Herrera, Calle 53 Este, no commission on own TCs, US$0.10 tax. You can buy AMEX TCs at Banco Mercantil del Istmo on Vía España (they also give cash advances on MasterCard). Banco Nacional de Panamá, Vía España opposite the Hotel Continental, T205-2000, changes AMEX TCs with 1% commision. Banco Sudameris will also change Thomas Cook TCs. Chase Manhattan Bank, US$0.65 commission on each TC, Visa advances. Citibank has plenty of ATMs for cash withdrawals for its own debit or credit card holders, also Visa cash advances. Lloyds Bank, Calle Aquilino de la Guardia y Calle 48, Bella Vista, T263-6277, T263-8693 for foreign exchange, offers good rates for sterling (the only bank which will change sterling cash, and only if its sterling limit has not been exhausted). It is possible to change South American currencies (poor rates) at Panacambios, ground floor, Plaza Regency, behind Adam’s Store, Vía España, near the Banco Nacional de Panamá and opposite Hotel Riande Continental (it also has postage stamps for collectors).

Conservation

Asociación Nacional de Conservación de la Naturaleza (ANCON), Calle Amela Dennis de Icaza, Ancón Hill, past Panama’s Supreme Court, in former Quarry Heights, Casa 153, T314-0052, http://www.ancon.org, for comprehensive information on the country’s natural attractions and environmental matters. They also run a chain of lodges throughout the country eg in Darién and Bocas.

Dentist

Balboa Dental Clinic, El Prado, Balboa, T228-0338, good, fair price. Dr Daniel Wong, Clínica Dental Marbella, Edif Alfil (ground floor), near Centro Comercial Marbella, T263-8998. Dr D Lindo, T223-8383, very good but fix price before treatment.

Embassies and consulates

Canada, World Trade Center, Galería Comercial, 1st floor, Calle 53e, Marbella, T264- 9731; Chile, Vía España, Edif Banco de Boston, T223-9748, 0900-1200, 1400-1600; Colombia, World Trade Center, Calle 53e, Marbella, T264-9266, 0800-1300; Costa Rica, Calle Samuel Lewis, T264-2980, 0900-1600; El Salvador, Av Manuel Espinoza Batista, Edif Metropolis 4A, T223-3020, 0900-1300; France, Plaza de Francia, Zona 1, T211-6200; Germany, Edif Bank of America, Calle 50 y 53, T263-7733, 0900-1700; Guatemala, Edif Altamira, 9th floor, 9-25, Vía Argentina, T269-3475, 0800-1300; Honduras, Av Balboa, Bay Mall, T264-5513, 0900-1400; Israel, Edif Grobman, Calle MM Icaza, 5th floor, PO Box 6357, T264-8022; Italy, Av Balboa Edif Banco Exterior, T225-8948, 0900-1200; Mexico, Edif Credicorp, Calle 50, T263-4900, 0800-1200; Netherlands, Altos de Algemene Bank, Calle MM Icaza, 4, T264-7257, 0830-1300, 1400-1630; Nicaragua, Edif de Lessep’s, 4th floor, Calle Manuel María Icaza, T264-8225; Norway, Calle La Boca, Balboa, T228-1103, 0900-1230, 1430-1630; Spain, Plaza Porras, entre Av Cuba y Av Perú, Calle 33A, T227- 5472, 0900-1300; Sweden, consulate at Av Balboa y Calle Uruguay, T264-3748, 0900-1200, 1400-1600; Switzerland, Av Samuel Lewis y Calle Gerardo Ortega, Edif Banco Central Cancellería, 4th floor, T390-6330, PO Box 499 (Zona 9A), 0845-1145; UK, MMG Tower, Calle 53, Zona 1, T269-0866; USA, PAS Building 783, Demetrio Basilio Lakas Avenue Clayton, T207-7000, http://panama.us embassy.gov ; Venezuela, Edif HSBC, 5th floor, Av Samuel Lewis, T269-1244, 0830-1100.

Hospitals and clinics

The US Gorgas Army Community Hospital has closed and US medical facilities have moved to the Howard Air Force Base, across the Puente de Las Américas. Private clinics charge high prices; normally visitors are treated at either the Clínica San Fernando, T305-6300, or the Clínica Paitilla, T265-8800, which both have hospital annexes. For inoculations buy the vaccine at a chemist and ask them to recommend a clinic; plenty in La Exposición around Parque Belisario Porras.

Immigration

Migración y Naturalización, Av Cuba (2 Sur) y Calle 29, T225-8925; visa extensions and exit permits issued Mon-Fri 0800-1530. Ministerio de Hacienda y Tesoro, Av Perú/Calle 36, T227- 4879, for tax compliance certificate (paz y salvo) required for exit visa (permiso de salida) if you stay more than 30 days. Customs for renewal of permits and obtaining exit papers for vehicles at Paitilla airport.

Internet

Internet cafés are everywhere in Panama City, but are especially concentrated in the commercial centre around Vía España. Rates can be as low as US$0.50 per hr. New places are constantly opening, with many offering perks to clients, such as free coffee.

Language schools

ILERI , 42G Vía La Amistad, El Dorado T/F260-4424, http://www.ileripanama.com. Small school offering homestays, US$450 per week 1-to-1 tuition.

Laundry

Lavamático Lavarápido, Calle 7 Central No 7-45, ½ block from Plaza Catedral, Mon-Sat 0800-2000, Sun 0900-1400. Many around Plaza Catedral; wash and dry US$2. Lavandería y Lavamático América, Av Justo Arosemana and Calle 27. Self service wash and dry only US$1.50. Very convenient for the Calidonia hotels.

Post office

There is no home postal delivery service in Panama. Recipients either have a post office box (apartado), or receive mail via General Delivery/Poste Restante (Entrega General). The new main post office is close to Casco Viejo at the west end of Av Balboa at Av B, opposite the Mercado de Mariscos, Mon-Fri 0700-1745, Sat 0700-1645; ‘Poste Restante’ items are held for a month. Official name and zone must be included in the address: Main Post office: ‘Zona 1, Central, Av Balboa opposite Mercado de Mariscos’; Calle 30 East/Av Balboa: ‘Zona 5, La Exposición’; El Dorado Shopping Centre, Tumba Muerto: ‘Zona 6A, El Dorado’; Vía España, Bella Vista (in front of Piex store): ‘Zona 7, Bella Vista’. Parcels sent ‘poste restante’ are delivered either to Encomiendas Postales Transístmicas at the El Dorado Centro Comercial or the main post office if there is no duty to pay on the goods. The post office operates a courier system calledEMS to most Central and South American countries, Europe, US and some Asian countries. Packages up to 20 kg: 2 to 3 days to USA (500 g documents to Miami US$13); 3 to 4 days Europe US$20; Asia US$25. Also private courier services, eg UPS, Edif Fina, Calle 49, El Cangrejo, ½ kg to London or Paris, 3-4 days, US$30; Jet Express (Federal Express), Edif Helga, Vía España y Av 4 Sur/Calle 50, 500g to Miami, 2 days, US$19.

Telephone

Cable & Wireless has its main office in Vía España, on the ground floor of Banco Nacional building. They offer excellent but expensive international telephone, telex, fax and modem (use Bell 212A type) facilities. Collect calls to 21 countries, dial T106. Local calls in Panama City, US$0.10 for 3 mins, US$0.05 for each additional min; anywhere else in the country, US$0.15 per min.