Corn Islands travel guide

Background

During his fourth and final exploratory voyage, Columbus encountered the islands and named them Islas Limonares. At the time, they were inhabited by Kukra Indians, of which little is known today except for a reported tendency towards cannibalism. During the 18th century the islands became a haven for pirates resting in between pillages. Eventually they were settled by Afro-Caribbeans, mostly Jamaicans, who arrived from the neighbouring islands of San Andrés. The local economy was based on the production of palm oil until the devastating winds of Hurricane Joan in 1988, which reached over 200 kph and destroyed most of the palm trees on the island. Lobster fishing took over as the biggest industry, but supplies are being depleted rapidly. Tourism and ‘white lobster’ (cocaine) are taking over as the biggest sources of income for the islanders. Thanks to their proximity to the San Andrés Islands, which come under Colombian jurisdiction (although located inside Nicaragua’s ocean platform), drug traffickers have had a lot of involvement here, using Little Corn as a refuelling stop for many years. Today there’s a meagre police presence, frequently rotated to keep hands (and noses) clean. But there is still a lot of drug money on both islands, and parcels of coke are still dumped at sea (albeit less and less frequently), allowing locals to fish for the lucrative ‘white lobster’. Meanwhile, there has been a migration of Miskito communities from the mainland to the islands to dive for real lobster, although dwindling supplies have created unemployment in both native and migrant populations, with some desperate people turning to crime. Yet there is a surprising affluence to both islands that can probably only be explained by tourism or drugs. Either way, the Corn Island natives remain some of the most hospitable, polite and welcoming people in Nicaragua; a people with a profound understanding of the word ‘relaxed’.

Best time to visit

Unlike most of Nicaragua’s tourist destinations the dry season is by far the best time to visit the islands, with better visibility in the water and more sunshine. The best and driest months are February to April, or September to October when the waters are normally calm (unless a hurricane passes). Holy Week and Christmas are very crowded, as is 27-28 August when the festival takes place. June and September have the fewest foreigners.

Safety

Paradise has a dark side and you should use common sense at all times. On Big Corn, take care at the commercial dock area near Brigg Bay and at Queen’s Hill. Avoid walking at night on the island anywhere, always use a taxi to get between bars and your hotel. Theoretically, there is now a police force on Little Corn, but they may be hard to find. It’s better not to walk alone in the bush, and don’t walk there at night at all. Don’t go out with locals unless recommended by your hotel; thieves, known as ‘pirates’, sometimes pose as informal tour guides.

Getting around

The big island has one paved road that does a lap of the island with two buses and nearly 100 taxis. The small island has no roads; walking or boating are the only way of getting around.

Ins and outs

Getting there

The islands are 70 km off the mainland of Nicaragua. The big island is 13 sq km and the little one is 3.5 sq km. About 7 km of Caribbean Sea separates them. Two Nicaraguan airlines fly daily to Big Corn and there are boat services three times a week from Bluefields. Transportation to Little Corn is on a twice-daily skiff with two big outboards and good native navigators. The boat has no roofing to protect from rain and sun and it can be a wet ride if it’s rough – not for the weak-hearted.

Tourist information

There is no tourist office on the Corn Islands. A good online source of information is http://www.bigcornisland.com.

Corn Islands

Air

La Costeña flies from Big Corn to Managua with a stop in Bluefields, daily at 0810 and 1540, US$165 round trip, 90 mins with stop. Re-confirm seats before travelling. La Costeña office is on Big Corn, T575-5131.

Boat

Inter-island boats

Big Corn to Little Corn, daily 1000, 1630, US$6.50, 40 mins. Little Corn to Big Corn, daily 0700, 1400, US$6.50, 40 mins. Boats leave from main dock, first come, first served. US$0.20 charge to get into the dock area. Buy big blue trash bags to keep luggage dry at shop across from dock entrance, best to sit near the back.

Mainland boats

Subject to change, check locally; Corn Islands to Bluefields leaves Tue, 0900, US$12, 5-6 hrs; and Fri and Sun 1200. To Bilwi, daytime departure, 1 per month, US$30, 3 days.

Bus

2 buses circle the paved island road on Big Corn every 20 mins, US$0.50.

Taxi

Taxis charge US$2 for trips to and from the airport or any trip after 2000. Any other trip is US$1. Hourly taxi rates are US$6 per hr, poor value, as there are many taxis and trip fares are cheap.

‘Bucks’ are córdobas in island speak.

Banks

The only bank is BanPro on southwest bay on Big Corn, T575-5109. No ATM, and credit card advance for VISA only. TCs are not accepted or changed anywhere. Dollars are widely used on the islands; be safe and take all the cash you need with you. If stuck, you might get a credit card advance at the airport.

Hospital

Brig Bay T575-5236.

Internet

Big Corn has a café near Nautilus, US$1.50 per hour. Little Corn has extortionate cafés at Los Delfines and Casa Iguana, US$10 per hr.

Police

T575-5201. There are few, if any police on the Little Corn – ask around.

Telephone

Enitel, T575-5061.