Masaya travel guide

Background

Masaya has always been home to very hard-working and skilled craftsmen. The first tribute assessments of 1548 for the Spanish crown stipulated that Masaya was to produce hammocks and alpargatas (cloth shoes). Around 300 years later, when US diplomat and amateur archaeologist EG Squier visited Masaya, he noted that, along with Sutiava (León), Masaya was a thriving centre of native handicraft production. Composed of at least three pre-Columbian villages – Masaya, Diriega and Monimbó – Masaya was briefly the colonial capital of Nicaragua when Granada rose up in rebellion, and it has always been involved in major political events in Nicaragua. In November 1856, William Walker’s occupying troops lost a critical and bloody battle here to combined Central American forces, triggering his eventual retreat from Granada and Nicaragua. In September 1912, Masaya was the scene of battles between Liberal army forces and the US Marines. The insurrection against Somoza was particularly intense here, with the indigenous community of Monimbó showing legendary bravery during popular rebellions in February and September 1978. Finally in June 1979, the Revolution took control of Masaya and it was used by retreating Managuan rebels as a refuge before the final victory a month later. Since the war years, Masaya has returned to making fine crafts, serving as the commercial centre for Los Pueblos de la Meseta and the heart of Nicaragua’s Pacific culture.

Best time to visit

Most of the region remains green year round, though Masaya, Nindirí and the national park are much more enjoyable in the rainy season. From November to January, the upper rim villages of Laguna de Apoyo, such as Catarina and San Juan de Oriente, can be chilly by Nicaraguan standards.

Getting there and around

There are frequent bus services from Managua’s Roberto Huembes market and La UCA bus station, as well as Granada’s bus terminals. Taxis are available in Masaya, both the motorized and horse-drawn variety.

Bus

Buses leave from the new market or you can also catch a non-express bus from the Carretera a Masaya towards Granada or Managua. Express buses leave from Parque San Miguel to La UCA in Managua when full or after 20 mins, 0600-2000, US$0.60.

Granada, every 30 mins, 0600-1800, 45 mins, US$0.60. Jinotepe, every 30 mins, 0500-1800, 1½ hrs, US$0.50. Managua, every 30 mins, 0400-1800, 1 hr, US$0.50. Express to Managua, every 30 mins, 0400-2100, 40 mins, US$0.80. Matagalpa, 0600 and 0700, 4 hrs, US$2.25. Or take a bus to Tipitapa, 0300-1800, 45 mins, US$2, change for Matagalpa.

Buses run to Valle de Apoyo for Lago de Apoyo from Masaya 2 times a day (1000, 1600, 45 mins, US$0.50) then walk down the road that drops into the crater. The bus returns to Masaya at 1130 and 1650. You will have to get off at Km 37.5 and walk down the 5-km access road (it’s very dusty in the dry season, so bring a bandana).

Taxi

Fares around Masaya are US$0.30- 0.80. Granada, US$15; Managua US$20; airport US$25. Horse-drawn carriages US$0.30.

From Granada to Laguna de Apoyo, US$15-20, or from Managua, US$35-40.

Banks

All banks will change dollars. The BAC, opposite the northwest corner of the artisan market, has an ATM; as does Banpro, opposite the southwest corner. There’s a Bancentro on the west side of the plaza with a Visa ATM. You’ll also find street changers around the plaza.

Doctor

Dr Gerardo Sánchez, next to town hall, speaks some English.

Internet

Intecomp, south of the main plaza. Also try Mi PC a colores, on Sergio Delgadillo.

Post office

Sergio Delgadillo.

Telephone

Enitel office on Parque Central.