Granada (Nicaragua) travel guide

Background

The Chorotega population encountered by the first Spanish explorer, Captain Gil González Dávila, inhabited important settlements on both north and south sides of the Volcán Mombacho. Nochari, on the south side of the volcano, was later moved further southeast and became modern-day Nandaime . Today’s Granada was in the northern Lake Nicaragua Chorotega province of Nequecheri, and was dominated by the heavily populated settlement of Xalteva. Granada was founded by Captain Francisco Hernández de Córdoba around 21 April 1524 (the same year as León, and Nicaraguan historians have been arguing ever since to establish which was the first city of Nicaragua). The original wall, which divided the Spanish and Indian sectors of Granada, can be seen today just southeast of the Xalteva church. In 1585, a French chronicler described a religious procession in the city as rich in gold and emeralds, with Indian dances that lasted for the duration of the procession and a line of very well-dressed Spaniards, although the total Spanish population was estimated at only 200. Granada became a major commercial centre and when the Irish friar Thomas Gage visited in 1633 he marvelled at the city’s wealth, most of which came from trade with Peru, Guatemala and Colombia.

Thanks to the lake and San Juan’s river’s access to the Atlantic, Granada flourished as an inter-oceanic port and trading centre, soon becoming one of the wealthiest, most opulent cities in the New World. But it wasn’t long before reports of Granadino wealth reached the ears of English pirates occupying the recently acquired possession of Jamaica, which they wrested from Spain in 1665. Edward Davis and Henry Morgan sailed up the Río San Juan and took the city by surprise on 29 June 1665 at 0200 in the morning. With a group of 40 men they sacked the churches and houses before escaping to Las Isletas. In 1670 another band of pirates led by Gallardillo visited Granada via the same route. After destroying the fort at San Carlos, they sacked Granada and took with them men and women hostages.

In 1685, a force of 345 British and French pirates, led by the accomplished French pirate William Dampier, came from the Pacific, entering near where the Chacocente wildlife refuge is today . The local population were armed and waiting to fight off the pirates but were easily overwhelmed by the size of the pirate army. They had, however, taken the precaution of hiding all their valuables on Isla Zapatera. The pirates burned the Iglesia San Francisco and 18 big houses, then retreated to the Pacific with the loss of only three men.

Granada saw even more burning and destruction in what were the biggest nationalist uprisings for Independence from Spain in 1811-1812 and during persistent post-Independence battles between León and Granada. When León’s Liberal Party suffered defeat in 1854 they invited the North American filibuster William Walker to fight the Conservatives, thus initiating the darkest days of Granada’s post-colonial history. Walker declared himself president of Nicaragua with the cede in Granada, but after losing his grip on power (which was regional at best) he absconded to Lake Nicaragua, giving orders to burn Granada, which once again went up in flames.

Since the days of William Walker, Granada has lost its importance as a commercial centre for inter-oceanic shipment of goods, but its Conservative Party supplied the country with presidents from 1869-1893 who brought modernization to the city with public lighting (1872), telephones (1879), running water (1880) and train travel (1886). The 20th century saw little action for the city other than continued economic growth for its landed aristocracy. In 1929 US journalist Carlton Beals described Granada as a town that “drowses in forgotten isolation”. The old city was spared significant damage during the Revolution of 1978-1979, but Granada has undergone many facelifts in recent years. It is rapidly becoming an international city with its numerous foreign residents having a profound effect on the city’s economy and culture.

Best time to visit

Granada is hot year round but due to it lakefront location it does not suffer from as much dust and smoke during the dry season as some other towns. If planning a trip on the lake avoid the windy months from November to March; the prettiest time of year is the rainy season from June to October. The main day of Granada’s patron saint festival is 15 August with horse parades, bulls in the streets and processions. Holy Week celebrations in Las Isletas include interesting boat processions.

Safety

The centre of Granada is generally safe, but can become very empty after 2100 and some thefts have been reported. Police presence is almost non-existent on week nights so always be careful to take precautions. Avoid walking alone at night, avoid the barrios outside the centre. Take care along the waterfront at any time of day and avoid it completely after dark.

Getting around

Granada’s city centre is small and manageable on foot. Parque Central is the best reference point and the cathedral is visible from most of the city. There are three main streets: Calle Real runs east (al lago) past several churches to the central square, continuing as Calle El Calmito east of the park past the city’s two Spanish restaurants and on to the lake. Running perpendicular is Calle Atravesada, one block west of Parque Central, which runs from the old railway station in the north, south to Granada market. It has most of the cheap eating and night entertainment. The other important route, Calle Calzada, which starts at the big cross on Parque Central and runs east towards the lake, past many beautiful homes, colourful restaurants and small hospedajes, ending at Lake Nicaragua and the city port. Much of the city’s beauty can be appreciated within an area of five blocks around the centre. The east side of the Parque Central is generally much quieter with far fewer cars and trucks.

Ins and outs

Getting there

There is a ferry service from San Carlos, a challenging 12- to 14-hour journey across Lake Nicaragua that connects with river boats from Río San Juan and Los Chiles, Costa Rica. En route it stops at Altagracia, Isla Ometepe.

There are express buses from Managua’s Roberto Huembes market as well as La UCA. International bus companies Transnica, King Quality and Ticabus stop in Granada on some of their routes north from Costa Rica.

If coming from the north, take the Carretera a Masaya, turn right at the Esso station upon entering the city and then left up Calle Real towards the centre. If coming from the south, use the Carretera a Granada. You will enter at the cemetery; continue north to the Calle Real and turn east towards the lake to reach the centre.

Transport

Bus

Local

For the border with Costa Rica use Rivas bus to connect to Peñas Blancas service or use international buses.

Express minibuses to La UCA in Managua from a small lot just south of Parque Central on Calle Vega, every 20 mins, 0500-2000, 45 mins, US$1.20. Ask to be dropped on the highway exit to Masaya, US$0.60, from where it’s a 20-min walk or 5-min taxi ride to the centre. Buses to Mercado Roberto Huembes, Managua, also leave from a station near the old hospital in Granada, west of centre, but they’re slower and only marginally cheaper.

Leaving from the Shell station, Mercado, 1 c al lago: to Rivas, 7 daily, 0540-1510, 1½ hrs, US$1.50; to Nandaime, every 20 mins, 0500-1800, 20 mins, US0.70; to Niquinohomo, every 20 mins, 0550-1800, 45 mins, US$1, use this bus for visits to Diriá, Diriomo, San Juan de Oriente, Catarina; to Jinotepe, 0550, 0610, 0830, 1110, 1210 and 1710, 1½ hrs, US$1, for visits to Los Pueblos, including Masatepe and San Marcos. There’s a 2nd terminal nearby, Shell station, 1 c abajo, 1 c norte, serving Masaya, every 30 mins, 0500-1800, 40 mins, US$0.50.

There are shuttles to Laguna Apoyo, 2 daily leave from Hostal Oasis, Calle Estrada 109, south of the centre, T552-8006, www. nicaraguahostel.com, to Crater’s Edge hostel at the lake, 1000, 1600, 30 mins, US$2. They return at 1100 and 1700. Paxeos, Parque Central, blue house next to cathedral, T552-8291, http://www.paxeos.com. Daily shuttles to Managua airport, León, San Juan del Sur and San Jorge.

Long distance

International buses to San José, Costa Rica, pass through Granada each day. See individual offices for schedules: King Quality, Shell Guapinol, 1½ c al Sur, opposite Ticabus, http://www.kingqualityca.com. Ticabus, Shell Guapinol, 1½ c al Sur, T552-2899, http://www.ticabus.com. Transnica, Calle Xalteva, Frente de Iglesia Auxiliadora, T552-6619, http://www.transnica.com.

Ferry

Schedules are subject to change. The ferry to San Carlos leaves the main dock on Mon and Thu at 1400, and stops at Altagracia, Ometepe after 4 hrs (US$4 1st class, US$2 2nd class), Morrito (8 hrs, US$5 1st class, US$3, 2nd class) and San Miguelito (10 hrs, US$5.50 1st class, US$3 2nd class). It stops in San Carlos after 14 hrs (US$8 1st class, US$4 2nd class). This journey is tedious, take your own food and water, and a hammock, if you have one. The ferry returns from San Carlos on Tue and Fri following the same route. For Altagracia you can also take a cargo boat with passenger seats on Wed and Sat (1200, 4½ hrs, US$2). It is faster (and less scary) to go overland to San Jorge and catch a 1-hr ferry to Ometepe, see San Jorge page , for more details.

Taxi

Granada taxi drivers are useful for finding places away from the centre, US$0.50 during the day, US$1 at night. To Managua US$25, but check taxi looks strong enough to make the journey.

Directory

Banks

Banco de Centro América (BAC) Parque Central, 1 c abajo, on Calle La Libertad, has an ATM and will change TCs and US dollars. ATM at Esso Station (15-min walk from town centre) accepts Cirrus, Maestro, MasterCard as well. Banpro, BAC, 1 c al sur, has a less reliable ATM and money changing facilities. Bancentro, BAC, 1 c al norte, has a Visa ATM. Western Union, from fire station ½ block south, Mon-Sat 0800-1300, 1400-1700.

Doctor

Dr Francisco Martínez Blanco, Clínica de Especialidades Piedra Bocona, ½ block west of Cine Karawale, T552-5989, f_mblanco@ yahoo.com, general practitioner, speaks good English, consultation US$10.

Internet

Internet cafés can be found all over town, while most hostales and hotels also offer internet access, including international calls.

Language schools

APC Spanish School, west side of Parque Central, T552-4203, www.spanish granada.com. Flexible immersion classes in this centrally located language school. There are volunteer opportunities with local NGOs. Casa Xalteva, Iglesia Xalteva, ½ c al norte, T552-2436, http://www.casaxalteva.com. Small Spanish classes for beginners and advanced students, 1 week to several months. Home stays arranged, and voluntary work with children, recommended. Nicaragua Mía Spanish School, inside Maverick’s reading lounge, Calle Arsenal, T552-2755, www.nicara gua-mia-spanish school.com. An established and professional language school with various learning options, from hourly to weekly tuition. The school takes an ethical approach and contributes to local causes. One on One, Calle La Calzada 450, T552- 6771, www.1on1 tutoring.net. One on One uses a unique teaching system where each student has 4 different tutors, thus encouraging greater aural comprehension. Instruction is flexible, by the hour or week, with homestay and activities available. There’s an evening restaurant too, where you can practise your Spanish with locals. Recommended.

Laundry

Parque Central, 1½ c abajo, around US$3 for a medium-sized load, daily 0700-1900.

Post office

From fire station ½ block east, ½ block north.

Telephone

(Enitel) on corner northeast of Parque Central.