Isla Ometepe travel guide

Background

Ceramic evidence shows that the island has been inhabited for at least 3500 years, although some believe this figure could be 12,000 years or more. Little is known about the pre-Conquest cultures of the island. From ceramic analysis carried out by US archaeologist Frederick W Lange (published in 1992), it appears the people of 1500 BC came from South America as part of a northern immigration that continued to Mexico. They lived in a settlement in what is today the town of Los Angeles and were followed by waves of settlement to both the western and eastern sides of the island.

Mystery also surrounds the people who inhabited the island at the time of the Conquest. A visiting priest reported in 1586 that the natives of the island spoke a language different from any of those spoken on the mainland. Yet the large basalt statues found on Ometepe appear to be of the same school as the ones found on Zapatera and attributed to the Chorotegas. Dr J F Bransford, a medical officer for a US Navy, came to Nicaragua in 1872 as part of an inter-oceanic exploratory team. His observations (published in 1881 by the Smithsonian Institute) remain one of the few sources of information about this mysterious place. During his digs in 1876 and 1877, near Moyogalpa, he noted that the Concepción volcano was forested to the top and ‘extinct’ (it would become very much alive five years later) and that the isthmus between the two volcanoes was passable by canoe during the rainy season. The island’s population was estimated at 3000, with most living in Altagracia and some 500 others scattered around the island. Most people he described fitted the description of an Ometepino today – basically Chorotega in appearance; however, on the very sparsely populated Maderas side of the island lived a tall people – many of the men were over 6 ft – with decidedly unusual facial features. These people were more suspicious by nature and reluctant to talk or share the location of the big basalt idols of the islands. From this, Bransford concluded that they still worshipped the gods represented in the statues (by contrast, the other inhabitants of the island had happily revealed the location of their statues). There is little evidence of these people today, but their religious statues can be found next to the church in Altagracia and in the National Museum in Managua.

During the colonial period, Ometepe was used as a refuge for pirates, en route to or returning from a pillaging raid on Granada. The bandits would steal food supplies, livestock, even women, forcing some of the population to move inland. During William Walker’s occupation of Granada, Moyogalpa was used as a temporary medical field hospital for retreating troops and would-be colonizers, until the local population attacked and they were forced to escape in canoes to the mainland.

In the 1870s the indigenous population rioted against a pact between Conservative and Liberal politicians during local elections. More problems arose in 1908 when mestizo migrants from Chontales fought to appropriate 4653 acres of indigenous communal lands that stretched from Urbaite to Maderas. The mainlanders eventually succeeded, but not without a long struggle that was still being fought in 1942, when the indigenous community rioted against the National Guard removing Indians from their land. The riot killed 23 indigenous and three soldiers. However, the island was spared involvement in the bloody battles of the Revolution and the Contra War and for this reason the Ometepinos call their island the ‘Oasis of Peace’.

Best time to visit

The dry season is normally less harsh here, but after February everything is brown. The end of May is a happy, optimistic time, especially for farmers, but there can be a lot of gnats in the air. The rainy season is much prettier as the countryside becomes lush and green. The windy season from November to February can make the ferry crossing unsettling.

Getting around

Taxis (vans and pick-ups) wait for the boat arrivals, as do buses. Most of the island is linked by a bus service, otherwise trucks are used. Walking, cycling or horse riding are the best ways to see the island; however, it can be dusty in the dry season.

Ins and outs

Getting there

Boat connections from Granada and San Carlos are possible, but the most user-friendly are the one-hour boats and ferries from San Jorge to Moyogalpa, running almost hourly throughout the day, with reduced services on Sunday. The ferry costs US$2 per person each way; other boats cost US$1.50. The best choice is the ferry, which has three levels, a toilet, snack bar, television (with telenovelas blasted through concert speakers over the noise of the motors) and room for six cars. It’s worth timing your crossing to use it, both for its facilities and for the great viewing deck, which offers a panoramic view of the lake and islands. If it’s a clear day, the Zapatera archipelago is visible to the north, with Volcán Mombacho rising up behind it; on really clear days you’ll see the smoke surging out of Volcán Masaya. A lancha called the Mozorola travels between Altagracia and San Jorge four times a week. If you are prone to seasickness buy Nausil from the farmacia before the crossing.

If you have a high-clearance 4WD you may want to take it across on the ferry (US$20 each way). Arrive at least one hour before departure to reserve a spot (if possible call the day before, T278-8190 to make an initial reservation). You will need to fill out some paperwork and buy a boarding ticket for each person travelling. Make sure you reserve your spot as close to the ferry ramp as possible, but leave room for trucks and cars coming off the ferry.

Transport

Boat

The lake can have very big swells. The best access route to the island is from San Jorge to Moyogalpa. The ferry and boat offer regular services. Cars are transported with the ferry.

From Moyogalpa to San Jorge, 12 daily boats and ferries, hourly 0530-1600, US$2. Reduced services on Sun, 3 ferries only.

The port of Altagracia is called San Antonio and is 2 km north of the town; pick-ups meet the boat that passes between Granada and San Carlos. To San Carlos, Mon and Thu 1800-1900, US$8, 11 hrs. To Granada, Tue and Fri, around 0000, US$4, 3½ hrs.

Bus

Buses wait for the boats in Moyogalpa and run to Altagracia hourly, 0530-1830, US$1, 1 hr. To San Ramón 0815, US$1.25, 3 hrs. To Mérida, 0830, 1430, 1630, US$2, 2½ hrs. To Balgües, 1030, 1530, US$2, 2 hrs. For Charco Verde, take any bus to Altagracia that uses the southern route.

Car and bike hire

Toyota Rent a Car, Hotel Ometepet, T459- 4276. A strong 4WD is a must, US$35-50 for 12 hrs, US$60 for 24 hrs. A driver can also be provided, with advance notice.

Bicycle and motorbikes are widely available from hotels. Hacienda Mérida has some particularly good mountain bikes. Be careful on the northern road, it’s rocky and dangerous.

Directory

Banks

Banco Procredit, pier, 500 vrs uphill, Visa ATM and dollar-changing facility. Western Union attached. Money changing (no TCs) in the 2 biggest grocery stores (1 opposite Hotel Bahía) or in hotels. Best to bring all the cash you need from Rivas.

Internet

Crushingly slow at most places; expect time-outs. Hotel Central in Altagracia, US$2 per hr. Comercial Arcia in Moyogalpa, US$2 per hr.