Cuenca travel guide

History

From AD 500 to around 1480, Cuenca was a Cañari settlement, called Guapondeleg, which roughly translates as ‘an area as large as heaven’. The suffix ‘deleg’ is still found in several local place names, a vestige of the now extinct Cañari language.

Owing to its geographical location, this was among the first parts of what is now Ecuador to come under the domination of the Inca empire, which had expanded north. The Incas settled the area around Cuenca and called it Tomebamba, which translates as ‘Valley of Knives’. The name survives as one of the region’s rivers. Some 70 km north of Cuenca, in an area known as Jatun Cañar, the Incas built the ceremonial centre of Ingapirca, which remains the most important Inca site in the country . Ingapirca and Tomebamba were, for a time, the hub of the northern part of the Inca empire.

The city as it is today was founded by the Spanish in 1557 on the site of Tomebamba and named Santa Ana de los Cuatro Ríos de Cuenca. Cuenca then became an important and populous regional centre in the crown colony governed from Quito. The conquistadors and the settlers who followed them were interested in the working of precious metals, for which the region’s indigenous peoples had earned a well-deserved reputation. Following independence from Spain, Cuenca became capital of one of three provinces that made up the new republic, the others being Quito and Guayaquil.

Safety

Cuenca is somewhat safer than either Quito or Guayaquil, but street crime does occur and routine precautions are advised. Outside the busy nightlife area around Calle Larga, the city centre is deserted and unsafe after 2300, when using a taxi is recommended. Areas where particular caution is advised after dark are, Cruz del Vado (south end of Juan Montalvo), all around the Terminal Terrestre and around the markets.

Cuenca hosts the internationally famous Bienal de Cuenca, a biennial international visual arts competition. Exhibitions occupy parks, museums, galleries, and public buildings around the city for 3 months starting either during the Apr or Nov festivities. The next bienal opens 22 Oct 2009, artists from 30 countries have been selected. Information from Bolívar 13-89, T07-283 1778.

Getting around

The colonial centre is fairly compact and flat, making it easy to get around on foot. The city is bounded by the Río Machángara to the north. The Río Tomebamba separates the colonial heart from the stadium, universities and newer residential areas to the south; there are a number of restaurants and night spots along Avenida Remigio Crespo, a 20-minute walk from the centre. Beyond this district are the Yanuncay and Tarqui rivers and to the south of them the autopista, a multi-lane vehicular bypass. Avenida las Américas is a ring road to the north and west. Parque Nacional Cajas can be seen to the west of the city.

Air

TAME and Aerogal fly from Cuenca to Quito, US$68, and Guayaquil, US$60, several flights daily, schedules change often so ask locally.

Airline offices

Aerogal, Aurelio Aguilar 159 y Solano, another office on Av España next to airport, T07-286 1041. Continental, Padre Aguirre 10-96 y Lamar, T07-284 7374. COPA, Lamar 9-89 y Padre Aguirre, T07- 284 2970. TACA, Sucre 7-70 y Cordero, T07-284-6730. TAME, Florencia Astudillo 2-22, and at the airport, T07-288 9581.

Bus

For destinations around Cuenca . To Guayaquil, US$5, either via Zhud, 5 hrs, or via Cajas and Molleturo, 4 hrs. There are 2 bus routes to Gualaquiza, in southern Oriente, either via Gualaceo (page) and Plan de Milagro, or via Sígsig (page).

Car hire

Avis, Av España 10-87 and at the airport, T07-286 0174, http://www.avis.com.ec. Bombuscaro, España y Elia Liut, opposite the airport, T07-286 6541. Hertz, at the airport, T07-280 6147, http://www.hertz.com.ec.

Banks

Banco del Pacífico, Gran Colombia 23-120 y Av de las Américas, ATM and TCs. Many banks with ATMs around the old cathedral.

Casas de cambio

Vazcorp, Gran Colombia 7-98 y Cordero, T07-283 3434, change 11 currencies, 1.8% comission for US$ TCs, good rates.

Hospitals

Clínica Santa Ana, Av Manuel J Calle 1-104, T07-281 4068. Hospital Santa Inés, Av Daniel Córdova Toral 2-113, T07-281 7888, Dr Jaime Moreno Aguilar speaks English. Hospital Monte Sinaí, Miguel Cordero 6-111 y Av Solano, near the stadium, T07-288 5595, several English-speaking physicians.

Internet

Rates US$0.60-US$1/hr.

Language schools

Hourly rates for Spanish classes US$6-10. CEDEI (Centers For Interamerican Studies), Luis Cordero 5-66 y J Jaramillo, T07-283 9003, T01-623 505 4525 (USA), http://www.cedei.org. Spanish and Quichua courses, Spanish for health professionals,

immersion/volunteering programmes, English as a second language teacher-training, homestays, Wi-Fi, also run Hostal Macondo. Recommended. Centro Abraham Lincoln, Borrero 5-18 y Honorato Vásquez, T07-282 3898. Small Spanish language section. Estudio Internacional Sampere, Hermano Miguel 3-43 y C Larga, T07-284 1986. At the high end of the price range. Sí Centro de Español e Inglés, Borrero 7-67 y Sucre, T07-282 0429, www.sicentrospanish school.com. Good teachers, competitive prices, homestays, arrange volunteer opportunities, helpful and enthusiastic, tourist information available. Recommended.

Laundry

Fast Klin, Hermano Miguel 4-21 y Calle Larga. Lavandería, Manuel Vega y Sucre. A self-service laundromat. Many others.

Post office

Gran Colombia y Borrero, T07-283 8311.

Useful addresses

Emergencies, T911. Immigration, Gran Colombia y Eduardo Muñoz, T07-282 1112. Police, T101.