Venezuela travel guide

Venezuelan rum is very good; recommended brands are Cacique, Pampero and Santa Teresa. There are five good beers: Polar (the most popular, sold as Polar and Ice, and Solera and Solera Light), Regional (strong flavour of hops), Cardenal and Nacional (a lisa is a glass of keg beer; for a bottle of beer ask for a tercio); Brazilian Brahma beer (lighter than Polar) is now brewed in Venezuela. There are also mineral waters and gin. There is a good local wine in Venezuela. The Polar brewery joined with Martell (France) to build a winery in Carora. Bodegas Pomar (T0212-202 8924, bpventas@empresas- polar.com) also sells a champagne-style sparkling wine. Look out for Pomar wine festivals in March and September. Liqueurs are cheap, try the local ponche crema. Coffee is very cheap (café con leche is milky, café marrón much less so, café negro is black); it often has sugar already added, ask for “sin azúcar”. Try a merengada, a delicious drink made from fruit pulp, ice, milk and sugar; a batido is the same but with water and a little milk; jugo is the same but with water. A plus-café is an after-dinner liqueur. Water is free in restaurants even if no food is bought. Bottled water in cervecerías is often from the tap; no deception is intended, bottles are used as convenient jugs. Insist on seeing the bottle opened if you want mineral water. Chicha de arroz is a sweet drink made of milk, sugar and vanilla. Fruit juices are very good, ask for “jugo natural, preparado en el momento” for the freshest juice.

As with lodging, eating out is, by South American standards, very expensive and locals hardly ever do so. Many restaurants are therefore empty and some are closing down. Some cities, like Puerto Ordaz, are notably costly. Midday used to be the cheapest time to eat and the best time to find fresh vegetables, but now many places offer only à la carte, quoting scarcity of supplies. In some places you can still find the three-course menú ejecutivo or cubierto, but it’s increasingly rare. Minimum price for a meal is US$8-10, plus US$1 for drinks. Hotel breakfasts are likely to be poor. It is better and cheaper in a fuente de soda and cheaper still in a pastelería or arepería.

There is excellent local fish (such as pargo or red snapper, carite or king fish), crayfish, small oysters and prawns. Although it is a protected species, turtle may appear on menus in the Península de Paraguaná as ropa especial. Of true Venezuelan food there is sancocho (vegetable stew with meat, chicken or fish); arepas, bland white maize bread; toasted arepas served with various fillings or the local salty white cheese, are cheap, filling and nutritious; cachapas, a maize pancake wrapped around white cheese; pabellón, of shredded meat, beans, rice and fried plantains; and empanadas, maize-flour pies of cheese, meat or fish. At Christmas there are hallacas, maize pancakes stuffed with chicken, pork, olives, boiled in a plantain leaf. A muchacho (boy) on the menu is a cut of beef. Ganso is not goose but beef. Solomo and lomito are other cuts of beef. Hervido is chicken or beef with vegetables. Contorno with a meat or fish dish is a choice of fried chips, boiled potatoes, rice or yuca. Caraotas are beans; cachitos are filled croissants. Pasticho is what Venezuelans call Italian lasagne. The main fruits are bananas, oranges, grapefruit, mangoes, pineapple and pawpaws. Lechosa is papaya, patilla water melon, parchita passion fruit, and cambur a small banana. Excellent strawberries are grown at Colonia Tovar, 90 minutes from Caracas, and in the Andes. Delicious sweets are huevos chimbos, egg yolk boiled and bottled in sugar syrup, and quesillo, made with milk, egg and caramel. The Daily Journal lists reliable restaurants in Caracas and Maracaibo. Note Venezuelans dine late!

Dial T171 for the integrated emergency system. CICPC (Cuerpo de Investigaciones Científicas, Penales y Criminalísticas), Av Urdaneta entre Pelota y Punceres; Edif Icauca, mezzanina 2, Caracas, T0212-564 7798, http://www.cicpc.gov.ve. For registering crimes, with agencies throughout the country.

110 volts, 60 cycles. Plugs are 2-pin round and flat combined, 2-pin flat and 2-pin flat with optional D-shaped earth.

For a list of Venezuelan embassies and consulates abroad visit http://www.mre.gov.ve.

The unit of currency is the bolívar fuerte (BsF), which replaced the bolívar on 1 Jan 2008 when 3 zeros were knocked off. There are coins for 1 bolívar fuerte, 50, 25, 12.5, 10, 5 and 1 céntimos, and notes for 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 and 100 bolívares fuertes. Have small coins and notes to hand, since in many shops and bars and on public transport large notes may be hard to change.

Venezuela has had an exchange control regime since 2003. The government determines the exchange rate for the bolívar fuerte, which is currently grossly overvalued in relation to the dollar and other currencies. For foreign travellers, so steep are prices using the official exchange rate that almost no one can afford to travel in Venezuela in relative comfort using it. The ‘parallel’ (ie black) market exchange of currencies is illegal, but it is common practice among importers, exporters and travellers. It fluctuates, depending on many factors, including government foreign currency reserves and the price of oil. In Mar 2009 it stood at about US$1 = 6.10 BsF. Banks, casas de cambio and credit card transactions use the official rate; quoted rates in hotels tend to be worse than that. Prices in this guide are calculated with the official exchange rate, so bear this fact in mind when calculating the cost of your trip.

If you do decide to change cash on the black market, a) find out what the unofficial rate is from as many sources as possible (you can check one of many websites like http://dolarparalelo.blog spot.com), and b) do the transaction with the most trusted person. The best method is with the senior staff in a European or US-run posada. If you don’t take this option, the transaction will not be simple. Even if Venezuelans have to pay 5, 6 or even 7 BsF for one dollar, you will be offered only 3 - 3.40 BsF with hard bargaining in the provinces, possibly 4 in the capital. If you run short of cash, your best and cheapest bet is to cross the border to Colombia (San Antonio to Cúcuta is easiest), spend the night in Cúcuta and withdraw as much as possible, in Colombian pesos from an ATM. Then go to any casa de cambio and buy bolívares. In late 2008, peso/bolívar exchange rates were giving about 4.6 BsF to the dollar. Remember to count your money carefully and make sure that you do not receive damaged notes.

Business hours Banks: Mon-Fri 0830-1530 only. Government offices: 0800-1200 are usual morning hrs, although they vary. Officials have fixed hrs, usually 0900-1000 or 1500-1600, for receiving visitors. Businesses: 0800-1800 with a midday break. Shops: Mon-Sat 0900-1300, 1500-1900.

Generally speaking, Venezuelans start work early, and by 0700 everything is in full swing. Most firms and offices close on Sat.

Venezuela is unfortunately quite a dangerous place to travel around. Some statistics state that the crime rate is the highest in South America and Caracas’s murder rate is the world’s highest. Muggings are common, particularly in the bigger cities and are often at gunpoint. Rape is sadly very common, but mainly in poor neighbourhoods where police do not dare or want to go after sunset. It is not advisable to walk after dark: always take a taxi, preferably a marked car, or get someone to recommend a driver who can give you his number and you can use him for the duration of your stay. This applies even to tourist centres like Mérida and Ciudad Bolívar.That said, during the day is mostly fine, as long as you are aware of where you are going, and take necessary precautions. Ask your hotel where it is safe to go. In many places services shut after 1800.

As there are very few tourists, most Western Europeans will stand out almost everywhere. Carry only as much money as you need, don’t wear jewellery or expensive sunglasses. You must speak at least basic Spanish to be able to get yourself around. Very few people in the street will be able to speak English, and even fewer in rural areas. It will make you particularly vulnerable if you cannot at least understand and be understood on a basic level.

Outside of the big cities you will feel less unsafe, but still need to be careful in quieter rural areas as there may not be many tourists around. The more popular destinations (such as beaches and national parks) are used to having travellers and are generally further away from the kind of problems that you might encounter in the large cities. You still need to watch out for scams, cons and petty thieving. Beaches can be packed at weekends and, while empty on weekdays, the detritus left by the weekend crowds may not be cleared up. If you are seeking an isolated beach, make enquiries about which are safe before setting out.

In 2008, the mood on the streets was very tense owing to the marked divisions between pro-Chávez left and anti-Chávez right. This led to frequent harassment of foreigners, either in the form of insults and abuse, or in thorough police identity and body searches. Carry a copy of your passport and, if searched, watch the police like a hawk, in case they try to plant drugs to your bags. Stay away from political rallies (unless you are here to join them). Do not photograph people without permission. Carry a mobile and be prepared to call your embassy or your contact in the country if a police search becomes threatening.

Airport tax International passengers pay a combined airport and exit tax of around US$68 at the official exchange rate. Only locally-issued credit cards can be used for paying departure tax. Otherwise only dollars or bolívares are accepted, no TCs. (See p above on ATM machines at the airport.) Children under 2 years do not pay tax. There is an 8% tax on the cost of all domestic flights, plus an airport tax of US$9-20, depending on airport. Exit stamps have to be paid by overland travellers, US$18.50 (BsF 40). Correct taxes are not advertised and you may be overcharged

VAT/IVA 12%.

Ringing: long equal tones with equal long pauses. Engaged: short equal tones, with equal pauses.

4 hrs behind GMT, 1 hr ahead of EST.

Taxi drivers are not tipped if you agree the fare in advance. Usherettes are not tipped. Hotel porters, US$1; airport porters US$1 per piece of baggage. Restaurants 5-10% of bill; some even charge on top of the service charge when it is included.

In charge of tourism is the Ministerio del Poder Popular para el Turismo, Av Francisco de Miranda con Av Principal de La Floresta, Edif Mintur (Frente al Colegio Universitario de Caracas), Chacao, Caracas, T0212-208 4511, http://www.mintur.gob.ve and http://www.inatur.gob.ve. Venetur, Av Francisco de Miranda, Urb La Floresta, Complejo Mintur, Torre Norte, p 3, Caracas. T0212-208 4811, www.venetur .gob.ve, is the state-owned and operated travel agency, aimed at facilitating travel for nationals and foreigners, making reservations and arranging tours. How effective Venetur will become remains to be seen, but nationalization of some landmarks, such as the former Hilton Hotel (now the Alba) in Caracas, the Inter- continental in Puerto Ordaz and Canaima Camp, did not initially improve services.

For practical information, see www.venezuela visitors bureau.com. Outside Venezuela, contact Venezuelan embassies and consulates. Read and heed the travel advice at websites below.

Entry is by passport and visa, or by passport and tourist card. Tourist cards (tarjetas de ingreso) are issued by airlines to visitors from all EU and other Western European countries, Australia, Canada, Japan, New Zealand, South Africa, USA and most South and Central American and Caribbean countries. To check if you need a visa, see http://www.mre.gov.ve. Valid for 90 days, tourist cards cannot be extended. At some overland border crossings (including San Antonio) visitors are given only 30 days. Overstaying your tourist card may lead to arrest and a fine when you try to depart. For a tourist visa, you need 2 passport photos, passport valid for 6 months, references from bank and employer, onward or return ticket and a completed and signed application form. The fee is US$30. For a 90-day extension go to the Ministerio del Poder Popular para las Relaciones Interiores y Justicia, ONIDEX, Av Baralt on Plaza Miranda in Caracas, T0800-664 3390 or 0212-483 2070, http://www.onidex.gov.ve; office at Plaza Caracas, Torre Norte (Centro CB), mezzanine, Mon-Fri 0700-1230 (Fri 0800), take passport, tourist visa, photographs and return ticket; passport with extension returned at end of day. ONIDEX offices in many cities do not offer extensions. Transit visas, valid for 72 hrs are also available, mostly the same requirements and cost (inward and onward tickets needed). ONIDEX in Caracas will not exchange a transit for a tourist visa. In Manaus you also need a yellow fever inoculation certificate. Consuls may give a 1-year visa if a valid reason can be given. To change a tourist visa to a business visa, to obtain or to extend the latter, costs US$60.

Work visas also cost US$60 and require authorization from the Dirección General Sectorial de Identificación y Control de Extranjeros in Caracas. Student visas need a letter of acceptance from the Venezuelan institution, references from bank and university, signed application form, 2 passport photos, onward or return ticket, passport valid for 6 months and US$60. It takes 2 days to issue a visa.

Note If you are not eligible for a tourist card, you must get a consular visa in advance. Carry your passport with you at all times as police do spot checks and anyone found without ID is immediately detained (carrying a certified copy of your passport and entry stamp is OK, though not always accepted). You will also be asked to provide details like name, address, passport number in restaurants and shops. Military checkpoints are in many areas, especially in border zones (eg on the roads from San Antonio to Maracaibo and Mérida), where all transport is stopped. Have documents ready and make sure you know what entry permits you need; soldiers may not know rules for foreigners. Searches at checkpoints are thorough and foreigners get closer attention than nationals. Business visitors on short visits are advised to enter as tourists, otherwise they’ll have to obtain a tax clearance certificate (solvencia) before they can leave. Do not lose the carbon copy of your visa as this has to be surrendered when leaving.

Metric.

Most big places are served by Aeropostal http://www.aeropostal.com, Aserca www.asercaairlines .com, in alliance with SBA www.sb airlines.com (formerly Santa Bárbara), Avior http://www.avior.com.ve, Conviasa http://www.conviasa.aero, Sol América, Láser http://www.laser.com.ve, Rutaca http://www.rutaca.com.ve, Transaven http://www.transaven.com and Venezolana http://ravsa.com.ve. Aereotuy/LTA http://www.tuy.com, connects the coast, the Orinoco Delta and their camp in Canaima National Park, Arekuna. Apart from Aserca, which is marginally better than the rest, none is great. Lost luggage is a frequent problem. Delays and cancellations without compensation are common. Beware of overbooking during holidays, especially at Caracas airport; check in at least two hours before departure. If you book a ticket online with a credit card, you may be told at check-in that your tickets is ‘reserved but not purchased’. Check with your card company that you have not been charged twice.

Buses on most long-distance routes come in four standards, normal, semi-ejecutivo, ejecutivo and bus-cama. Fares are set by the authorities and you should see them posted on bus office windows. There are numerous services between the major cities and many services bypass Caracas, so you don’t have to change buses in the capital. Buses stop frequently, but there may not always be a toilet at the stop. For journeys in a/c buses take a sleeping bag or similar because the temperature is set to freezing. This is most important on night journeys, which otherwise are fine. Also take earplugs and eyemask to protect against the loud stereo and violent Hollywood screenings. The colectivo taxis and minibuses, known as por puesto, seem to monopolize transport to and from smaller towns and villages. For longer journeys they are normally twice as expensive as buses, but faster. They are mostly 1980’s US gas-guzzlers, in all states of repair (a shortage of original spare parts and brakeneck driving speeds make por puestos a dangerous mode of transport). They are, however, great places to meet the locals, learn about the area and discuss politics. If first on board, wait for other passengers to arrive, do not take a por puesto on your own unless you want to pay for the whole vehicle. They may be reluctant to take luggage, but for a bit of comfort you can pay for two front seats and place your luggage between you and the driver. Outside Caracas, town taxis are relatively expensive.

Hitchhiking (cola) is not recommended as it is unsafe. It is illegal on toll roads and, theoretically, for non-family members in the back of pick up trucks. Specifically avoid hitchhiking around Guardia Nacional posts, where foreign travellers, even if travelling on regular buses or por puestos, have been subject to harassment (2008).

Guía Vial de Venezuela, edited by Miro Popic (Caracas 1999), US$25, is a motoring guide with maps and tourist information. The best country map is the late Kevin Healey’s, published by International Travel Maps, Vancouver, Canada, http://www.itmb.com; buy direct or at good travel agents.

Camping in Venezuela is popular. Camping, with or without a vehicle, is not possible at the roadside. If camping on the beach, for the sake of security, pitch your tent close to others, even though they play their radios loud.

Venezuela has the longest coastline in the Caribbean with numerous palm- fringed beaches of white sand. Caracas is hidden from the Caribbean by Monte Avila, one of Venezuela’s national parks, but you don’t have to go too far beyond the mountain to find good beaches. Only a few hours west of the capital are some lovely little beaches. Further west is the Parque Nacional Morrocoy, with many islands close to the shore. North of Morrocoy is the historic town of Coro, surrounded by sand dunes, and the Paranaguá Peninsula. Parque Nacional Mochima, east of Caracas, has some excellent beaches and a multitude of islets to explore. Further east are unrivalled beaches on the Paria Peninsula, but they are harder to reach. Besides those islands already mentioned, there is Isla de Margarita, one of the country’s principal destinations for local and foreign tourists. The Islas Los Roques, 166 km due north of the central coast, is a beautiful archipelago, still unspoilt despite the growth in tourist interest.

Above the grasslands of the Gran Sabana rise tepuis, flat-topped mountains from which spring magnificent waterfalls and rivers. The Angel Falls, the highest in the world, are one such wonder, usually seen from a plane, but also reachable by a two- to three-day trip upriver. There are many other falls in the Gran Sabana and a few places to stay, the most popular being Canaima camp on a lagoon on the Río Carrao. Where Venezuela meets Brazil and Guyana is Mount Roraima; to reach its summit is one of the country’s most adventurous excursions. The Orinoco delta is remote, but trips can be made from the small town of Tucupita. Amazonas is well off the beaten track, but accessible from Puerto Ayacucho. Much of the rainforest is protected and you need permission from the authorities to visit areas beyond the reach of a tour company.

Venezuela’s Andes have some gorgeous scenery, with snow-capped peaks and remote, historic villages. The main centre is Mérida, in the Sierra Nevada of the same name. It has accommodation, other services and tour companies, which can arrange treks, climbing and other excursions. Two of its claims to fame are the highest cable car in the world, ascending the 4,776-m Pico Espejo, and the shop selling the largest number of ice cream flavours in the world.

Life in the llanos revolves around the cycle of wet and dry seasons; the movement of cattle, the mainstay of the region’s economy, depends on it. In the flat grasslands are slow running rivers which flood in the rainy season, creating a huge inland sea. When the rains cease, the whole area dries out completely. South of the cattle lands are forests and the tributaries of the Río Orinoco. Just after the May-November wet season, this is a paradise for nature lovers, with a spectacular variety of birds, monkeys, big cats, anaconda, river dolphins, caiman and capybara. Tours to the llanos are run from Mérida and there are ecotourism ranches which offer you the chance to get to know the lifestyle of the plains.