A few kilometres west of La Libertad, surrounded by miles of salt flats, is Salinas, Ecuador’s answer to Miami Beach. Upscale hotels, high-rise holiday flats, restaurants, bars, and shops line the attractive malecón, while a few more modest establishments are to be found in the back streets. There is safe swimming in the bay, though the beach is narrow, with coarse sand and not too clean. More appealing is the (still urban) beach of Chipipe, south of the well-equipped and very exclusive Salinas Yacht Club. There are some decent surf breaks at the east end of the bay, by an old shipwreck and also by Mar Bravo and near the Chocolatera. Whale watching, birdwatching and fishing trips can be arranged here.
During la temporada (December to April) Salinas can be overcrowded, overpriced, less-than-safe, noisy, with traffic jams, rubbish-strewn beaches and water shortages. At this time the highway from Guayaquil is said to resemble a Grand Prix racetrack, especially on Sunday. During the low season it is cheaper and quieter, but still not the best place to get away from it all.
The Museo de Ballenas (Av Enríquez Gallo, entre C 47 y C 50, T04-277 8329, by appointment only, voluntary contributions welcome), is a small whale museum at the home of naturalist Ben Haase. This is the place to report beached whales or dolphins. The Fundación Ecuatoriana para el Estudio de mamíferos marinos (http://www.femm.org) is involved with the study and protection of marine mammals. Museo Salinas Siglo XXI (Malecón, corner Guayas y Quil, Wed-Fri 0800-1200, 1500-1800, Sat-Sun 1000-1300, 1500-1900, US$2), has well-displayed collections of naval history and regional archaeology. There is another interesting collection in Ballenita. At the entrance to town there is a crafts cooperative. Information is available at Turismo Municipal (Eloy Alfaro y Mercedes de Jesús Molina, Chipipe, T04-277 0000, Tue-Fri 0800-1700, Sat 0800-1400).
Beyond Chipipe, the western end of the peninsula is occupied by a navy base. Within it, at the westernmost point of continental Ecuador, is La Chocolatera, a blow hole in the rocky cliffs. Although erosion has diminished the once very impressive jet stream, it is still a magnificent spot with wild surf stirring the turquoise waters. Ask for permission to enter at the gate on the naval base, it is 2.5 km from there. Also within the base, at Punta Brava, is La Lobería, a sea lion colony. Guides to both sites are available from the Museo Salinas Siglo XXI (above) or Salinas tour operators. This coastal area was declared a national wildlife reserve in 2008.
On the southern shore of the Santa Elena peninsula, 8 km south of La Libertad, is Punta Carnero, built on headlands high above the sea. West of it stretches a magnificent 15-km beach with wild surf and heavy undertow (not suitable for swimming), which is virtually empty during the week. There are a couple of upmarket places to stay and, in July, August and September, whale watching from shore. Buses (US$0.50) and taxirutas (US$1), between La Libertad and Anconcito, take you to within walking distance of Punta Carnero.
Between Punta Carnero and Mar Bravo, just east of Salinas along the southern shore of the peninsula, are the Ecuasal Ponds (commercial salt pans), which offer the spectacle of thousands, at times tens of thousands, of shorebirds and waterbirds. More than 100 species have been identified here, sometimes there are even Chilean flamingos, visiting from their breeding grounds near Piura (Peru). Birds can be seen from the road, but if you wish to get a closer look, you must go with naturalist guide Ben Haase. Independent visits are not permited by Ecuasal, the company which owns the 500-ha property.
A few kilometres to the east of Punta Carnero, along the coast, lies Anconcito, a scenic fishing port at the foot of steep cliffs. Pelicans and frigate birds gather round the colourful boats when the catch is brought in. There’s nowhere in town to stay. Further on is Ancón, centre of the declining local oilfield, where a few houses built by the American oil company in the 1920s can still be seen....
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