Las Terrenas travel guide

On the north coast of the peninsula is Las Terrenas, with some of the finest beaches in the country, from which, at low tide, you can walk out to coral reefs to see abundant sea life. The beaches go on for miles, fringed by palm trees under which are hidden a large number of small hotels and restaurants, often run by Europeans, attracted by the lifestyle. It is a quiet, low-key resort and never crowded, although development is in progress and greater numbers of visitors are expected; the beaches are mostly clean and remain beautiful. It is reachable by a 17-km road from Sánchez which zig-zags steeply up to a height of 450 m with wonderful views before dropping down to the north coast. The road Samaná-Las Terrenas via Limón is also a pretty route although perhaps not so spectacular from the top. A new road is planned, which will link Las Terrenas directly with the new airport at El Catey and run along the northern coast behind the beaches.

Where the road reaches the shore, at the cemetery in Las Terrenas village, a left turn takes you along a sandy track that winds between coconut palms alongside the white-sand beach for about 5 km, past guesthouses and restaurants. At the end of the beach, walk behind a rocky promontory to reach Playa Bonita, with hotels, guesthouses and restaurants. Beyond the western tip of this beach is Playa Cosón, a magnificent 6-km arc of white sand and coconut groves ending in steep wooded cliffs (1½-hour walk or US$3 on motoconcho). A large hotel and marina development is being constructed here, while an all-inclusive hotel, Viva Wyndham Samaná, has already opened at the far end of Playa Cosón. A nice trip is to take a motoconcho, about US$3, along a very bumpy dirt and sand track and walk back along the beach.

A right turn at the waterfront in Las Terrenas takes you along a potholed road about 4 km to the largest hotel in the area, El Portillo, an all-inclusive resort. The airstrip is behind it on the other side of the road. El Limón, 10 km further on, is a farming village on the road across the peninsula to Samaná. From El Limón you can ride or hike for an hour into the hills to a 40-m high waterfall on the Arroyo Chico and swim in a pool of green water at its foot, a highly recommended excursion. The Salto de Limón (or Cascada del Limón) is a National Monument. There are four different access routes to the falls from the Samaná road, from the communities of Rancho Español, Arroyo Surdido, El Café and El Limón, from all of which you can hire horses, buy food and drinks and local produce. If taking a guide to the falls, fix the price in advance (the falls can be deserted, do not take valuables there). Access to the falls is regulated to prevent erosion and other damage; visits are only permitted during the day on foot or horseback. Motoconcho from Las Terrenas to El Limón US$2.50, but they will try to charge US$5-10....read more