The town of Santa Bárbara de Samaná, commonly known just as Samaná, is set in a protected harbour, within the Bahía de Samaná. Columbus arrived here on 12 January 1493, but was so fiercely repelled by the Ciguayo Indians that he called the bay the Golfo de las Flechas (Gulf of Arrows). Nowadays two small islets offshore are linked by a causeway to the mainland, providing a picturesque focal point when looking out to sea and added protection for yachts. The town itself is not startling, there are no colonial buildings, no old town to wander around, but the location is most attractive and it is a lively place particularly in whale-watching season.
There is no tourist office in Samaná. Samaná Tourist Service (T8095382451), on the Malecón, sells tours but will also provide information; alternatively, call T8095382206 (Ayuntamiento), or 8095382210 (Governor’s office).
The present town of Santa Bárbara de Samaná was founded in 1756 by families expressly brought from the Canary Islands. The city, reconstructed after being devastated by fire in 1946, shows no evidence of this past, with its modern Catholic church, broad streets, new restaurants and hotels, and noisy motorcycle taxis. Any remaining old buildings were torn down by Balaguer in the 1970s as part of his grand design to make the Samaná Peninsula into a huge tourist resort. When he was defeated in the 1978 elections his plans were discarded and Playa Dorada was developed instead. His dream is now being revived and the peninsula is witnessing an unprecedented construction boom with new hotels and villas, marina, golf course, airport, etc. There were 2400 hotel rooms on the peninsula at end-2006, with another 5400 planned to be built by end-2011.
In contrast to the Catholic church, and overlooking it, is a more traditional Protestant church, white with red corrugated-iron roofing, nicknamed locally La Churcha. It came from England, donated by the Methodist Church. They began the custom of holding harvest festivals, which still take place. The Malecón waterfront road is the main street in the town, lined with restaurants, bars and tour operators. The dock is here, for the ferry to Sabana de la Mar, some whale-watching tours and private yacht services. A causeway links two islands in the bay, where there is a hotel.
Humpback whales return to Samaná Bay at the beginning of every year to mate and calve. Various half-day tours go whale watching, certainly worthwhile if you are in the area then. This is recognized as one of the ten best places in the world to see whales and is very convenient for the average tourist as they are so close to the shore....
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