Monkey puzzle trees around a snow-white volcano
(Entry US$9.50, visitor centre (open Dec-Mar) at the park administration by Lago Conguillio. CONAF runs free slide lectures and short guided walks during the summer, covering flora and fauna, Volcán Llaima and other subjects) .
Covering 60,833 ha, the park, situated 80 km east of Temuco, is one of the most popular in Chile though it is deserted outside January and February and at weekends. In the centre is the Llaima Volcano (3125 m), which is still active and can be climbed. There are two craters: the western crater was blown out in 1994 and began erupting again in March 1996. The volcano came to life again on New Year’s day 2008 and the effects are visible in the massive lava-flow to the north.The last eruption was in April 2009. There are two large lakes, Laguna Verde and Lago Conguillio, and two smaller ones, Laguna Arco Iris and Laguna Captrén. North of Lago Conguillio rise the snow-covered peaks of extinct volcano Sierra Nevada, which reaches 2554 m.
Much of the park is covered in forests of southern beech but it is also the best place in Chile to see native araucaria forest, which used to cover extensive areas of land in this part of the country . Mature araucaria forest can be found around Lago Conguillio and on the slopes of Llaima. Other trees include cypress and canelo (winter’s bark). Among the park’s wildlife are condors, black woodpeckers, the marsupial monito del monte, pumas, foxes, pudú and many waterfowl.
Trails within the park range from 1 to 22 km in length. Details are available from the park administration or from CONAF in Temuco. One of the best trails is a path round the east side of Lago Conguillio and north towards the Sierra Nevada (allow a full day for the round-trip). The first 10 km are reasonably easy, with two or three miradors offering spectacular views. After this it gets much more difficult for the final 5-km climb. From the western entrance it is a two- to three-day hike around Volcán Llaima to Lago Conguillio – a dusty route, but with beautiful views of Laguna Quepe – then on to the Laguna Captrén guardería.
Climb Llaima south from Guardería Captrén, avoiding the crevassed area to the left of the ridge and keeping to the right of the red scree just below the ridge. From the ridge it is a straight climb to the summit. Beware of sulphur fumes at the top. Allow five hours to ascend, two hours to descend. Crampons and ice-axe are essential except in summer; less experienced climbers should also hire a guide. Further information on the climb is available from Guardería Captrén....
