La Serena travel guide

History

La Serena was founded by Juan de Bohón, aide to Pedro de Valdivia, in 1544, destroyed by the Diaguita in 1546 and rebuilt by Francisco de Aguirre in 1549. The city was sacked by the English pirate Sharpe in 1680. In the colonial period, it was the main staging-post on the route north to Peru; many of the religious orders built churches and convents here providing accommodation for their members. In the 19th century, the city grew prosperous from copper-mining; the neo-classical mansions of successful entrepreneurs from this period can still be seen. The characteristic neo-colonial style of architecture in the centre, however, dates only from the 1950s, when the city was remodelled under the instructions of President González Videla, a lawyer, diplomat and Radical party politician, who was eager to leave his mark on his native city. González Videla ordered the drafting of an urban plan, under which Avenida Francisco de Aguirre was modernized and the Pedro de Valdivia gardens, west of the city, were built. All new buildings in the centre were constructed in Californian colonial style, although his regulation has since been modified, permitting the erection of some modern buildings.

Visiting the observatories

The clear skies and dry atmosphere of the valleys around La Serena have led to the area becoming one of the astronomical centres of the world . There are five observatories, two built especially to receive visitors. Personal applications for visitor permits to the other three observatories must be made directly to the respective institutions. It is critical to reserve tours to these three in advance – up to three or four months ahead during holiday periods, although off season a few days’ notice may be enough. Be aware that tours are subject to cancellation at short notice if there is inclement weather. Most tour operators in La Serena and Coquimbo arrange tours to Mamalluca. If you can arrange tickets directly with the observatory, taxi drivers will provide transport.

Some visitors to the three large observatories complain that they do not get as much of an insight as they had expected. Bear in mind that trained astronomers have to reserve years in advance to use the equipment and that a day tour will not be the beginning of your astronomical career – it will, though, give you a window onto the workings of some of the most important telescopes on earth.

La Serena

Air

Aeropuerto La Florida, 5 km east of the city, T051-271812. To Santiago and Copiapó, Lan Chile, 45 mins.

Bicycle

Mike’s Bikes, Av de Aguirre 004, T051-224 454, sales, hire, repairs, English spoken, helpful. Also Cicles Serena, Colón 452.

Bus

Local

The bus terminal is at El Santo y Amunátegui (about 8 blocks south of the centre). City buses cost US$0.75. To Coquimbo, bus No 8 from Av Aguirre y Cienfuegos, US$0.90, frequent; to Vicuña, with Via Elqui and Servitur, every 30 mins, 1 hr, US$2.50, most buses continue to Pisco Elqui, US$4, until 2000. Colectivos to Coquimbo from Av Aguirre y Balmaceda; to Vicuna from Domeyko y Balmaceda, US$3.50; to Andocollo and Ovalle, yellow colectivos from Domeyko. Colectivos also operate on fixed routes throughout city.

Long distance

Buses daily to Santiago, several companies, 7-8 hrs, US$15-25; to Arica, 21 hrs, US$43-55; to Calama, 16 hrs, US$30-65; to Vallenar, 3 hrs, US$7.50; to Valparaíso, 7 hrs, US$15-25; to Caldera, 6 hrs, US$14; to Antofagasta, several companies, 12 hrs, US$28-43; and to Iquique, 17 hrs, US$35-69.

International

Covalle, T051-213127, have 2 buses weekly to Mendoza and San Juan from Infante 538. The buses go via Los Libertadores rather than the more direct route over Aguas Negras.

Car

Hire from Avis, Av de Aguirre 063, T051- 227171; Budget, Balmaceda 3820, T051- 290241; Daire, Balmaceda 3812, T051-226933, recommended, good service; Flota Verschae, Fransisco de Aguirre 0240, T051-27645, good value, recommended; Hertz, Av de Aguirre 068, T051-227171, prices range from US$50 to US$80 per day; La Florida, at airport, T051-271947; and Theocar, Balmaceda 4310, T051-243770, http://www.theocar.cl, good-value responsible local outfit. Recommended.

Taxi

City taxis charge a flat rate of US$0.55 plus US$0.20 for every 200 m.

Banks

Several throughout the city centre. There is an ATM in the bus terminal. Casas de cambio at Inter, Balmaceda 431; Cambio Fides, Caracol Colonial, Balmaceda 460, good rates, changes TCs; also Cambio Caracol in the same building.

Consulates

France and Germany, Matta 665.

Internet

Ubiquitous.

Laundry

M & B, Peni 363, T051-211904 US$2.50 per kilo. Will pick up and deliver. Nevada, Los Carrera 635, US$6 for a 5-kg load.

Medical services

Hospitals: San Juan de Dios, Balmaceda 916, T051-200600. Clínica Elqui, Av El Salto 1475, T051-332300, just south of the main bus terminal (for those with insurance).

Police

Carabineros, Cienfuegos 180, T051-225276.

Telephone

Lots of call centres in the town centre.