Sucre travel guide

History

Founded in 1538 by the Spaniard Pedro de Anzures as the city of La Plata, Sucre became capital of the Real Audiencia of Charcas (crown colony) in 1559. Its name was later changed to Chuquisaca. The present name was adopted in 1825 in honour of the second president of the new republic. As if three names weren’t enough, the city has also been known as Charcas. In fact, one of its unofficial titles is ‘the city of four names’. But that should probably be ‘the city of five names’, because another of its nicknames is ‘La Ciudad Blanca’ (the White City).

After independence in 1825, Sucre became capital of the new republic and held this position until 1899 when, following a civil war, La Paz took over as seat of government. The executive and legislative branches of government where transferred to La Paz, while the judiciary and electoral branches remained in Sucre. Simmering discontent among sucrenses gained new force in 2007, when the city demanded that the issue of capitalidad, the return of power to the true capital, be included in the agenda of the constituent assembly, which was convened at the time. Sucre’s demands where largely ignored, leading to four days of violence, three deaths and 20 injured. The constituent assembly was forced to flee the city to a nearby military school, where in 48 hours it approved the new constitution. Sucre was named ‘constitutional capital’ instead of ‘historical capital’ and was offered a new airport and a road to the Pacific. The issue of capitalidad remains a major bone of contention with most chuquisaqueños.

Climate

Sucre has a pleasant climate with an average temperature of 18C. In winter, between May and August, days are sunny and mild and nights are cold (temperatures can drop below freezing in June to July). In summer, from December to March there is rain, but also many sunny days, temperatures are higher than in the winter.

Safety

Sucre is generally a safe city, but sees its share of tourists, so routine precautions are recommended in markets, crowded areas and at night. Muggings have been reported in the quiet streets around La Recoleta. As in other cities, beware fake police and immigration officials and of pickpocketing scams.

Getting around

The centre of Sucre is easy to explore on foot. Its busy narrow streets run uphill (southeast) from the plaza towards La Recoleta and the cross and antennae topped Churuquella and Sica Sica hills and downhill (northwest) towards Parque Bolivar and the old train station. Taxis anywhere in town (including the bus terminal) cost US$0.60 per person. Many of the city buses (micros) go along Avenida Hernando Siles by the Mercado Central, two blocks from the main plaza and cost US$0.20.

Transport

North from Sucre

To Ravelo, a bus and trucks leave from Parada Yurac Yurac , around 0900, 3 hrs, Some continue to Macha and Ocurí. To Aiquile US$2.80, 4 hrs.

Sucre

Air

AeroSur has 1 daily flight from/to each of La Paz (US$77) and Santa Cruz (US$56); the flight to Santa Cruz goes via Cochabamba (US$51) 3 times per week. TAM has 2 weekly flights from and 3 per week to La Paz, 4 weekly flights from and 2 per week to Santa Cruz, 4 weekly from and 3 per week to Cochabamba, 4 weekly from/to Tarija and 2 weekly from/ to Yacuiba.

Airline offices

Aero Sur, Arenales 31, T04-642 3838.

TAM, Arenales 217, T04-646 0944.

Bus

Long distance

All buses from the Terminal de Buses leave in the late afternoon or evening, except those to Potosí. There is an Enlace ATM outside and a post office and tourist information booth inside. Terminal use fee US$0.35.

Several companies daily to/from La Paz, 1700-2000, 13 hrs, US$9.60 (regular), US$12.50 (semi-cama), US$17 (cama) (Flota Copacabana and Trans Copacabana have bus-cama).

To Cochabamba several companies daily via Aiquile at 1830-1930, 8 hrs, US$5-7 (regular), US$8.50 (semi-cama), US$14 (cama) (Trans Copacabana bus-cama). To Aiquile, US$2.80, 4 hrs.

To Santa Cruz many companies daily at 1600-1730, 15 hrs, US$8.50-11 (regular), US$12.50 (semi-cama), US$15 (cama). To the turn-off for Vallegrande 10 hrs, to Samaipata 12 hrs, you have to pay full fare to Santa Cruz if you get off at either of these places.

To Potosí frequent departures between 0630 and 1800, US$2.50, 3 hrs.

To Uyuni via Potosí with 6 de Octubre at 0830 direct, with Turismo Emperador at 0700 and 1230 requires transfer and 2-hr wait in Potosí, US$8.50-11, 9 hrs. Or catch a bus to Potosí and change; book the connecting bus in advance.

To Oruro via Potosí: 3 companies, at 2000-2200, US$7 (regular), 8.50 (semi-cama), US$13 (cama), 8 hrs.

To Tarija via Potosí: 3 companies at 1500-1530, US$8.50-11.50, 14 hrs.

To Villazón via Potosí and Tupiza: at 1330 and 1730 and 1800 with 6 de Octubre, US$11, 12 hrs. To Tupiza US$9.50, 9 hrs.

To Camiri, via Monteagudo, Chaqueño Tue and Fri at 1600, continues to Yacuiba; Andes Bus and Trans Emperador alternate days at 1830, US$12.50 (regular), US$14-17 (cama), 16 hrs; Yacuiba US$23, 20 hrs.

To Camargo via Potosí, at 0730 and 1030 with 6 de Octubre, US$6.50, 9 hrs.

Bus reservations

Oasis Tours, Arce 95 of 2, T04-643 2437 and Trans Real Audencia, San Alberto 73 y España, T04-644 3119, arrange bus reservations and tickets for various destinations, if going west or south, this is likely to require changing buses in Potosí. They also run tourist buses to Tarabuco.

Car hire

Chuquisaca, Av Jaime Mendoza 1106, T04-646 0984. 4WD vehicles.

Imbex, Serrano 165, T04-6461222, www.im bex.com. 4WD vehicles. Recommended.

Taxi

Taxi within the city costs US$0.60 per person. Radio taxi companies: Charcas, T04-646 0000; La Glorieta, T04-643 3000; Súper Móvil, T04-645 222. These also offer service to Tarabuco and other towns.

Shared taxis to Potosí Cielito Lindo, T04-644 1014 and Dino’s, T04-643 7444, both next to the terminal, US$4.20, they will pick you up from the hotel, beware of overcharging.

Train

A 25-passenger autocarril (motorized rail car) runs to Potosí Mon, Wed and Fri at 0800, US$3.60, 6 hrs. It departs from Estación El Tejar 1 km south of the centre on the road to Potosí (take Micro 4), T04-644 0751.

Banks

Banco Nacional de Bolivia BNB, España 90 y San Alberto. Bisa, España 2 y Calvo. Casa de Cambio España, España 134, T04-643 2368, Mon-Fri 0830-1230, 1430- 1830, Sat 0900-1200. Change AMEX and Visa TCs, 4% commission on US$ TCs, 6% commission on euro TCs, also euro and US$ cash. Casa de Cambio Oasis, Arce 95, of 2, daily 0800-2000. US$, euros, regional currencies, 4% commission for AMEX or Visa US$ and euro TCs.

Cultural

centres

Alianza Francesa, Aniceto Arce 35, T02-645 3599, http://www.afbolivia.org. Hosts concerts, theatre, exhibits, an annual music festival in Jun, also French courses and individual Spanish lessons US$6.40 per hr. Casa de la Cultura, Argentina 65, presents art exhibitions, concerts, folk dancing etc. Centro Boliviano Americano, Calvo 301, T04-644 1608. Library open Mon-Fri 0900- 1200, 1500-2000 (good for reference works). Recommended for language courses, individual Spanish lessons US$5.70 per hr. The Centro Cultural Hacheh , run by Félix Arciénega, Bolivian artist who organizes folk and jazz concerts, conferences, exhibitions and discussions, and is the editor of an art and poetry journal ‘Hacheh’. Centro Cultural Masis, Bolívar 561, T04-645 3403. Promotes the Yampara culture through textiles, ceramics and music. Has an exhibit of native musical instruments (Mon-Sat 1900-2000) and offers lessons on how to play them (US$5.70 per hr, recommended). The Instituto Cultural Boliviano-Alemán, ICBA (Goethe Institute), Avaroa 326, T04-645 2091, http://www.icba-sucre.edu.bo. Shows films, has German magazines and books in various languages to lend (0930-1230 and 1500- 2100), runs Spanish, German, Portuguese and Quechua courses and has the Kulturcafé Berlín, which runs a folk music peña and other cultural events . Individual Spanish lessons cost US$7.50 for 45 mins, less for group lessons.

Emergency

Police radio patrol: T110. To report thefts go to FELCC, Loa 1070 y La Paz, T04-6446111.

Immigration

Bustillo 284 entre La Paz y Azurduy, T04-645 3647, Mon-Fri 0830-1230, 1430-1830. Tourist visa ampliación right away, prórroga in 24 hrs.

Internet

Many around town, average US$0.45 per hr.

Language schools

Academia Latinoamericana de Español, Dalence 109, T04-646 0537, www.latino schools.com. Professional, good extracurricular activities, volunteering opportunities, US$90 for 5 full days (US$120 for private teacher – higher prices if you book by phone or email). Bolivian Spanish School, C Kilómetro 7 250, T04-644 3841, www.bolivianspanish school.com. Near Parque Bolívar, pleasant school, individual lessons US$6.50 per hr, good value, excellent teachers. Fox Academy, San Alberto 30, T04-644 0688, http://www.foxacademysucre.com. Spanish and Quechua, individual lessons US$5 per hour, non-profit organization, proceeds are used to cover the cost of teaching English to poor local children, accept volunteers to teach English and arrange other volunteering. Margot Macías Machicado, Colón 371, T04-642 3567, m_macias_machicado@ hotmail.com. Individual lessons US$5 per hr. Recommended. Casa Andina de Lenguas, Loa 779, T04-645 1687, US$6 per hr. Several cultural centres also offer language courses.

Laundry

Lavarap, Bolívar 617 and Av Ostria Gutiérrez 302, T04-644 2598, Mon-Sat 0800-2000, Sun 0900-1400, quick, US$3.40 per load up to 4 kg. Lavandería Paola, Bolívar 543, T04-646 2477, Mon-Sat 0900-1200, 1400-2000, US$1.40 per kg. LG, Loa 407 y Av Hernando Siles, T04-642 4066, Mon-Sat 0900-1230, 1500-1800, US$1.15 per kg.

Medical services

Doctors: Gynaecologist, Dr Freddy Magariños, Padilla 233, T04-645 3883, speaks English. Hospitals: Hospital Santa Bárbara, Ayacucho y René Moreno by Plaza Libertad, T04-646 0133, public hospital. Hospital Cristo de las Américas, Av Japón s/n, T04-644 3269, private hospital. Hospital Gastroenterológico Japonés, Colón y Av Japón, T04-6454 700, for stomach problems, several doctors speak English, including Dr René Fortún.

Post offices

Ayacucho 100 y Junín, Mon-Fri 0800-2000,Sat 0800-1800, Sun 0900-1200, good service, also at the bus terminal.

Telephones

Many cabinas in town, for discount international calls, several places around Arenales y Arce, by the main plaza.