La Paz travel guide

History

La Paz was originally founded on the Altiplano in what is now Laja, a small town 30 km west of La Paz on the way to Desaguadero on the Peruvian border. In 1548 they moved down to the valley of the Río Choqueyapu thus escaping the cold winds of the Altiplano and getting closer to the alluvial gold in the river whose name in Aymara means ‘God of Gold’, today mostly underground and polluted beyond recognition. The city of Nuestra Señora de La Paz was founded on 20 October 1548, conveniently located between recently discovered silver mines of Potosí and Lima, capital of the Spanish colony. The choice of site for the city in a canyon proved to be a problem on more than one occasion. In 1781, a native rebellion led by Tupac Katari against the colonial power blocked the city, cutting its food supply first for two weeks and the second time for over two months. This situation has been repeated in recent times.

The official capital of Bolivia is Sucre in the southeast of the country, but La Paz became the country’s biggest city after the decline of Potosí in the 17th century. While the supreme court is still based in Sucre, most other branches of government were moved to La Paz after a civil war in 1899. Although La Paz remains an important commercial centre, its economic superiority has in recent decades been surpassed by Santa Cruz. In terms of population, in 2008 it was estimated to be third after Santa Cruz and El Alto.
Since colonial times, the centre of La Paz has been around Plaza Murillo. The first real suburbs where San Pedro and Sopocachi, west of El Prado, and Miraflores, on a ridge to the east. The spread down to what is now Obrajes happened during the early 20th century while the development of the Zona Sur gradually followed. At the same time the slopes of the canyon have filled with houses and working-class areas have spread out farther and farther from the centre and include Villa Fátima and others with Villa and Alto in their names. However, the major pole of growth since the 1970s has been the bleak Altiplano surrounding the canyon of La Paz where El Alto (page) has become not only a city in its own right, but the second largest in the country.

Climate

Because of the altitude, nights are cold all year. In the day, the sun is strong, but the moment you go into the shade or enter a building, the temperature falls. From December-March, the summer, it rains most afternoons, making it feel colder than it actually is.

Banks

The main branches of most banks are along Av Camacho, all have ATMs. For problems with Enlace ATMs or credit card problems with merchants, contact ATC,T02-231 8585. For problems with RedBank ATMs, contact LinkSer, T02-231 7393.

Bisa, Av Camacho 1333 and Av Arce 2572, Sopocachi (in a nice old mansion). Banco Nacional de Bolivia BNB, Av Camacho 1296 y Colón. Banco Unión, Av Camacho 1416 y Loayza. Prodem, Av Camacho 1277 y Colón, Illampu 784 y Santa Cruz, Salinas 520 y Sánchez Lima and other branches. AMEX representative, Magri Turismo, Capitán Ravelo 2101, T02-244 2727, www.magri turismo.com. Replaces lost TCs, sells TCs against AMEX card, but doesn’t change TCs, offers AMEX emergency services and clients’ mail.

Casas de cambio

Sudamer, Av Camacho 1311 y Colón, open Mon-Fri 0830-1830, Sat 0930-1230. Well-established exchange house, changes many currencies including US$, euros, pounds Sterling and currencies from all neighbouring countries. 2% commission on US$ or euro TCs into dollars, frequently recommended. Unitours 2 branches side by side at Mercado 1328 y Loayza, also nearby at Camacho y Loayza, Mon-Fri 0900-1700 (0830-1900 in branch across the hall), Sat 0900-1230. Good rates for US$ cash. Street changers on corners around Plaza del Estudiante, Camacho y Colón and Prado, OK rates, be careful not to be cheated.

Cultural centres

Alliance Française, Guachalla 399 esq Av 20 de Octubre, T02-242 5005, http://www.afbolivia.org, French-Spanish library, videos, newspapers, and cultural gatherings information. Centro Boliviano Americano (CBA), Parque Zenón Iturralde 121, T02-2444 0650 (10 mins’ walk from Plaza del Estudiante down Av Arce), http://www.cba.edu.bo. Has public library and recent US papers. Goethe-Institut, Av Arce 2708 esq Campos, T02-243 1916, http://www.goethe.de/lapaz. Excellent library, recent papers in German, CDs and DVDs, German books for sale.

Embassies and consulates

Argentina, Aspiazu 497 y Sánchez Lima, T02-242 2568, 0900-1330, 24 hrs for visa. Austria, Av 16 de Julio 1616, Edif Petrolero, p1, T02-236 9663, 1430-1600. Belgium, C 9, No 6, Achumani, T02-277 1430, 0900-1300. Brazil, Av Arce 2739, Edif Multicentro, T02-244 0202, embajadabrasil@ acelerate.com, 0900-1300 1500-1830, 48 hrs for visas. Canada, C Victor Sanjinés 2678, Plaza España, Edif Barcelona, p2, T02-241 4517, Mon-Thu 0830-1700, Fri 0830-1400. Chile, C14 8024, Calacoto, T02-279 7331, 0800-1300, visa same day if requested in the morning. Denmark, Av Arce 2799 y Cordero, Edif Fortaleza, p9, T02-243 2070, lpbamb@um.dk, Mon-Fri, 0830-1600. France, Av Hernando Siles 5390 y C 8, Obrajes, T02-278 6114, 0900-1230. Germany, Av Arce 2395 y Salinas, T02-244 0606, 0900-1200. Italy,C5 (Jordán Cuellar) 458, Obrajes, T02-278 8506, 0930-1230. Japan, Rosendo Gutiérrez 497 y Sánchez Lima, T02-241 910, 0930-1145. Netherlands, Av 6 de Agosto 2455, Edif Hilda, p7, T02-244 4040, 0900-1200. Norway, C René Moreno 1096 in San Miguel, T/F02-277 0009, 0900-1200. Paraguay, Av 6 de Agosto y P Salazar, Edif Illimani, p1, T02-243 2201, embapar@acelerate.com, 0830-1600, efficient visa service. Peru, Av 6 de Agosto 2455, Edif Hilda, p4, T02-244 0631, embbol@ entelnet.bo, 0900-1600, visa payable in US$, issued same day if you go early. Spain, Av 6 de Agosto 2827 y Cordero, T02-243 0118, embespa@entelnet.bo, 0830-1500. Sweden, Av 20 de Octubre 1227 y Campos, Edif Anexo Artemis, p1, T02-243 5011, 0900-1200. Switzerland,C 13 455 y 14 de Septiembre, Obrajes, T02-275 1001, 0900-1200. UK, Av Arce 2732 y Campos, T02-243 3424, ppa@megalink.com, 0830-1230, 1330-1700, visa section open 0900-1200. USA, Av Arce 2780 y Cordero, T02-216 8000, http://bolivia.usembassy.gov, 0830-1730.

Emergencies

Police (radio patrulla), T110 for emergencies. Tourist Police: C Hugo Estrada 1354, Plaza Tejada Sorzano opposite the stadium, Miraflores, next to Love City restaurant, T02-222 5016, open 24 hrs for emergencies, 0830-1800 to get a police report for insurance claims after theft (take 2 copies of your passport).

Immigration

Servicio Nacional de Migración, Av Camacho 1468, T02-211 0960, Mon-Fri 0830-1230 1430-1830. Allow 48 hrs for visa extensions.

Internet

Internet cafés are everywhere in La Paz, US$0.30-0.45 per hr, fast connections, long hours, but many closed Sun.

Language schools

Group lessons are about US$4 per hr, 1-to-1 lessons about US$6 per hr. Alliance Française . Centro Boliviano Americano . Instituto de La Lengua Española, María Teresa Tejada, C Aviador esq final 14, No 180, Achumani, T02-279 6074, 1-to-1 lessons. Recommended. Instituto Exclusivo, Av 20 de Octubre 2315, Ed Mechita, 1 block from Plaza Avaroa, T02-242 1072, http://www.instituto-exclusivo.com. Individual and group lessons. Speak Easy Institute, Av Arce 2047 y Goitía, just down from Plaza del Estudiante, T02-244 1779, speakeasy institute@yahoo.com. Private or group lessons, Spanish and English taught, very good. Private Spanish lessons from: Isabel Daza, Murillo 1046, p3, T02-231 1471. Enrique Eduardo Patzy, Méndez Arcos 1060, Sopocachi, T02-241 5501, epatzy@ hotmail.com. US$6 an hr 1-to-1 tuition, speaks English and Japanese. Recommended.

English-language teaching Try Pan American English Centre, Av 16 de Julio 1490, Edif Avenida, p7, T02-231 0079, native speakers only, minimum stay 3 months; similarly cultural centres and foreign schools.

Laundry

Wash and dry, 6-hr service, at Lavaya Lava- Sec, 20 de Octubre 2019, suite 9, helpful service, US$1.40 for 1 kg. Limpieza Finesse, Illampu 865, US$0.90 per kg, same-day service.

Medical services

Ambulance

T118 for ambulances that work with the Hospital de Clínicas, the city’s main public hospital. ADIM, T02-222 4452, provides ambulance, medical diagnostic and support services including oxygen therapy; they work with several important clinics in the private sector.

Contact lenses

Optalis, Comercio 1089.

Laboratories

Laboratorios Illimani, Loayza y Juan de la Riva, Edif Alborada p3, of 304, T02-2317290, open 0900-1230, 1430-1700, fast, efficient, hygienic.

Pharmacies

Daily papers list pharmacies on duty (de turno) and the police (Radio Patrulla T110) also has the list.

Vaccines

Ministerio de Desarollo Humano, Secretaría Nacional de Salud, Av Arce, near Radisson Plaza, yellow fever shot and certificate, rabies shots, malaria pills, bring own syringe from any pharmacy. Centro Piloto de Salva, Av Montes y Basces, T02-245 0026 for malaria pills, helpful. Red Cross, Av Camacho, opposite Mercado Camacho, may also give inoculations.

Dentists

Dr Antonio Abularach, Av 6 de Agosto 2809 y Cordero, Edificio Mercurio, p5, T02-243 0919. Dr José Artieda, Av 6 de Agosto y Cordero, Edificio Mercurio, p2, T02-243 0100, speaks English. Dr Celina Cuellar, Av J Patiño 1044, T02-279 8518, speaks English. Dr Marco Antonio Toledo, C21 8215, Calacoto, T02-279 9147, speaks English and German.

Doctors

Gynaecologist, Dr Ricardo Udler, Pasaje Cordero 150 y Av Arce, Edif El Escorial p2, T02-243 4775, speaks very good German and English. Gastroenterologist, Dr Guido Villagómez, Unimed, Av Arce 2630 y Pinilla, T02-243 1133. Dermatologist, Dr Juan Carlos Diez de Medina, DiagnoSur, Torre Ketal, C15, Calacoto, P1, T02-279 6999. Recommended by the British Embassy are: Cardiologist, Dr Octavio Aparacio, Unimed, Av Arce 2630, T02-222 0303 (emergency), T02-243 1133 (surgery). Internist, Dr Ciro Portugal, Av Arce y Cordero, Edif El Escorial, p2, T02-222 0303 (emergency), T02-243 4781 (surgery). Paediatrician, Dr Eduardo Mazzi, C Ignacio Cordero 976, Edif Terranova of 1A, San Miguel, T793 6600 (emergency), T02-279 6215 (surgery).

Hospitals and clinics

Care in public hospitals is basic. The following clinics are all good, private, care is expensive and they have some doctors who speak English and maybe German. Clínica Alemana, Av 6 de Agosto 2821, T02-2432155. Clínica CEMES, Av 6 de Agosto 2881 y Clavijo, T02-2430350. Clínica del Sur, C 7 y Av Hernando Siles, Obrajes, T02-278 4001. Clínica Metodista Americana, Av 14 de Septiembre 78 y C 12, Obrajes, T02-278 3509, more economical than those listed above, runs an outpatient clinic, appointment required. IPPA, Av. Saavedra 2302, Miraflores, T02-224 5394, http://www.altitudeclinic.com, specializes in high altitude pathology.

Post office

Correo Central is at Av Mariscal Santa Cruz y Oruro, open Mon-Fri 0800-2000, Sat 0830-1800, has a good selection of postcards at the back. Stamps are sold only at post offices and by some hotels as a service to their guests. Poste Restante keeps letters for 2 months and offers a good service at no charge. Check the letters filed under your surname and first name. Parcel service only at main branch, Mon-Fri 0830-1200, 1230- 1830. Express postal service (top floor) is expensive.

Couriers

DHL, Av Mariscal Santa Cruz 1282, Edif Seguros Bolívar; T02-278 6909. FedEx, C 5 No517, Achumani, T02-244 3437. UPS, Av 16 de Julio 1479, p10, T02-244 5044.

Telephone
There are cabinas for competing phone companies everywhere, these are good for calls to local, national and cell phones and expensive for international calls. For cheaper international calls, look for calling centres with posted rates, there are a number along C Sagárnaga and cost about US$0.10 per min to Europe and North America.

The centre of La Paz can be walked around, though this is often a slow process, especially as you get used to the altitude. For trips to other neighbourhoods, possibly to Sopocachi and definitely to Zona Sur, you’ll want to take a minivan or taxi. Taxis, which can be flagged down or ordered by phone, are cheap and plentiful – those marked ‘Radio Taxi’ with a dome light and phone number are a bit more expensive and considered safer; agree on the price before boarding. It is not unusual for plain taxis to pick up other passengers on route. At night, it is advisable to phone a taxi instead of flagging it down. Trufis are shared taxis on a fixed route (there are few around). The main form of public transport in La Paz is the minibus (shared minivans for 8-10 passengers, quite cramped at times, US$0.15-0.30 per person depending on the journey), they call out the route and weave in and out of lanes, creating traffic congestion. Micros are antique buses that chug around the streets for about US$0.20 a journey; their numbers are dwindling.

Running along the bottom of the canyon is the broad main avenue called El Prado built over the Río Choqueyapu. Along the way it takes on four names, starting in the north: Avenida Montes; Avenida Mariscal Santa Cruz; Avenida 16 de Julio; and Avenida Villazón. All streets go uphill from the Prado. On Sunday it is often closed to traffic while various displays and events take place. It is also the centre point for any demonstration taking place in the city, which inevitably causes traffic chaos.

El Prado runs southeast from Plaza San Francisco down to the Plaza del Estudiante. To its northeast is the grander area of the city, with government buildings and much of La Paz’s remaining colonial architecture. To the southwest of the Prado the streets rise into the city’s indigenous heart, teeming with markets and travellers. At the southern end of the Prado, Plaza del Estudiante is the epicentre of student life, while a short distance on down the valley the smart area of Sopocachi has many of the city’s best restaurants, bars and nightclubs. Five km further south, Zona Sur is another world: the modern flipside of the city centre, full of shiny office blocks, businesspeople and supermarkets.

La Paz is a city of plazas where many streets from all directions come together. If you ask for directions, a plaza or two are likely to be mentioned and the signs on public transport will also list the plazas they go through. The names of buildings (edificios) are very important in addresses. You are more likely to be guided to the door if you know the name of the building than if you know only the street number.

The city is connected to the rest of the world by ’la autopista’, a motorway that climbs steeply from the northern end of El Prado to El Alto on the Altiplano, from where roads lead to the rest of Bolivia and the borders with Peru and Chile. Another road goes north from La Paz to the Yungas valleys and the Amazon Basin.

Fake police, narcotics police and immigration officers – usually plain-clothed but carrying forged ID – have been known to take people to their ’office’ and ask to see documents and money; they then rob them. Legitimate police always wear a uniform and do not ask people for documents in the street unless they are involved in an accident, fight, etc. If approached, walk away and seek assistance from as many bystanders as possible. Never get in a vehicle with the ‘officer’ nor follow them to their ‘office’. The scams take many forms and can be very slick, involving taxis and various accomplices including fake tourists. It is best take only radio taxis, identified by their dome lights and phone numbers. At night, call for a taxi instead of flagging them in the street. Lock the doors and never allow other passengers to share your cab: the extra security is well worth the extra cost. If someone else gets in, get out at once. Also if smeared or spat on, walk away, don’t let the good Samaritan clean you up, they will clean you out instead. All areas that see large numbers of tourists require caution, especially all the bus terminals, including the interior of the main bus station. The cemetery neighbourhood, where many local buses arrive, used to be particularly unsafe. In 2008 tourist police were patrolling this district during the day, making it safer, however caution is still advised and the area is best avoided at night. Sopocachi, Miraflores and the Zona Sur are generally safer than the more central districts. There have been reports of armed robberies at Valle de la Luna to the south of the city; police are also patrolling there but do not take valuables or go alone. In case of emergency, dial the police at T110. ATM users take note: there are scams to get card numbers and PINs, be careful when using your cards.