Ins and outs
While certainly a challenging environment, many backpackers visit the reserve either alone or with professional guides. For those travelling alone, as long as you have basic Spanish and are a reasonably confident traveller this is the cheapest option. With access by air, sea and road, you can visit any time of the year but it is usually best to avoid the heavy rains from November to January. The driest months are March to May and August to October.
What to take
It’s a tough environment and you should go prepared. Take a mosquito net and repellent, clothing for rain and also for cooler temperatures at night, good walking shoes and a first-aid kit. Also enough cash in small denominations for your stay (there are no banks in the area) and plastic bags to keep things dry.
MOPAWI is concerned with the protection of natural and human resources throughout Mosquitia and the Department of Gracias a Dios. Among its programmes is the conservation of marine turtles and the green iguana. The Reserva Biósfera Río Plátano (525,100 ha) with the Reserva Antropólogica Tawakha, the Reserva Nacional Patuca and together with Mosquitia Nicaragüense, constitute one of the largest forest reserves north of the Amazon.
La Mosquitia
Air
Alas de Socorro fly to Ahuas, T233-7025. This company charters planes for US$565, but per person it is US$60 1 way to Ahuas . SAMi flies to various villages from Puerto Lempira, eg Ahuas, Brus Laguna, Belén. There are expensive express flights to places like Auka, Raya, Kaukira.
Airline offices
Sosa, T898-7467.
Boat
Coastal supply vessels run between La Ceiba and the coastal villages of La Mosquitia. The Corazón and Mr Jim make the trip weekly and their captains can be found at the harbour east of La Ceiba. Prices vary (US$10-20); be prepared for basic conditions. There are no passenger facilities such as beds or toilets on board and the journey takes a good 24 hrs.
Rivers, lagoons and inland waterways are the highways in the reserve and dug-out canoes provide the public transportation. Once in Palacios, you can catch colectivo boat transport at the landing near the Río Tinto Hotel to travel along the inland passage to coastal villages in the reserve such as Plaplaya, Raistá and Belén (about US$3.50 for a 1 or 2-hr trip). There is usually a boat to meet the planes that arrive in the morning and information on prices to different locations is posted in the airline offices. If you miss the colectivo you will usually have to pay extra for a special trip (about US$20).
Road
An upgraded road is the cheapest and most favoured route by locals. Take a bus from La Ceiba to Tocoa (US$2). From the market in Tocoa take a series of pickups (US$16 per person) along the beach to Batalla, crossing the various creeks that block the way in launches that wait to meet the cars. The journey to Batalla takes about 5½ hrs. From Batalla cross the lagoon in a boat to Palacios (US$0.70) and continue from there. The trip is not possible in the wetter months of the year (Jul, Oct and Nov). Some may suggest the possibility of catching a truck from Limón to Sangrilaya then walking along the beach and wading across rivers for 1-2 days to get to Batalla. While this is possible it is not recommended because of the heat, bugs and general safety issues.
