Todos Santos Cuchumatán travel guide

High in the Cuchumatanes, the Mam-speaking Todos Santeros maintain a traditional way of life with their striking, bright, traditional dress and their adherence to the 260-day Tzolkin calendar. The town is hemmed in by 3800-m-high mountains either side that squeeze it into one long, 2-km street down the valley. The town is famous for its weaving, and even more famous for the horse race.

Some of Guatemala’s best weaving is done in Todo Santos. Fine huípiles may be bought in the cooperative on the main street and direct from the makers. The men wear the famous red-and-white striped trousers. Some wear a black wool over-trouser piece. Their jackets are white, pink, purple and red-striped with beautifully coloured, and intricately embroidered, collars and cuffs. Their straw hat is wrapped with a blue band. You can buy the embroidered cuffs and collars for men’s shirts, the red trousers, and gorgeous colourful crocheted bags made by the men. The women wear navy blue cortes with thin, light blue, vertical stripes.

There is a colourful Saturday market and a smaller one on Wednesday. The church near the park was built in 1580.