Panajachel travel guide

Background

The original settlement of Panajachel was tucked up against the steep cliffs to the north of the present town, about 1 km from the lake. Virtually all traces of the original Kaqchikel village have disappeared, but the early Spanish impact is evident with the narrow streets, public buildings, plaza and church. The original Franciscan church was founded in 1567 and used as the base for the Christianization of the lake area. Later, the fertile area of the river delta was used for coffee production, orchards and many other crops, some of which are still grown today and can be seen round the back of the tourist streets or incorporated into the gardens of the hotels. Tourism began here in the early 20th century with several hotels on the waterfront, notably the Tzanjuyú and the Monterrey, the latter originally a wooden building dating from about 1910, rebuilt in 1975. In the 1970s came an influx of young travellers, quite a few of whom stayed on to enjoy the climate and the easy life. Drugs and the hippy element eventually gave Panajachel a bad name, but rising prices and other pressures have encouraged this group to move on – some to San Pedro across the lake. Others joined the commercial scene and still run services today.

Safety

There have been reports from travellers who have suffered robbery walking around the lake between San Juan and San Pablo and between San Marcos and Tzununá. Seek local advice from INGUAT, other travellers and local hotels/hostels before planning a trip.

Getting there and around

Good connections from most large town in the highlands, including Antigua, Chichicastenango and Quetzaltenango. The town centre is the junction of Calle Principal and Calle (or Avenida) Santander. The main bus stop is here, stretching south back down Calle Real, and it marks the junction between the old and the modern towns. It takes about 10 minutes to walk from the junction to the lake shore. Calle Rancho Grande is sometimes called Calle del Balneario and other streets have variants.

Boat

There are 2 types of transport – the scheduled ferry service to Santiago Atitlán and the lanchas to all the other villages. The tourist office has the latest information on boats. The boat service to Santiago Atitlán runs from the dock at the end of Calle Rancho Grande (Muelle Público) from 0600-1630, 8 daily, 20 mins in launch, US$3.10, 1 hr in the large Naviera Santiago ferry, T7762-0309 or 20-35 mins in the fast lanchas. Some lanchas to all the other villages leave from here, but most from the dock at the end of Calle Embarcadero run by Tzanjuyú from 0630-1700 every 45 mins or when full (min 10 people). If you set off from the main dock the lancha will pull in at the Calle Embarcadero dock as well. These lanchas call in at Santa Cruz, Jaibalito, Tzununá, San Marcos, San Pablo, San Juan and San Pedro, US$1.20 to US$2.50 to San Marcos and beyond. To San Pedro US$3.10. The first boat of the day is at 0700. If there is a demand, there will almost always be a boatman willing to run a service but non-official boats can charge what they like. Virtually all the dozen or so communities round the lake have docks, and you can take a regular boat to any of those round the western side. Note that, officially, locals pay less. The only reliable services back to Panajachel are from Santiago or San Pedro up to about 1600. If you wait on the smaller docks round the western side up to this time, you can get a ride back to Panajachel, flag them down in case they don’t see you, but they usually pull in if it’s the last service of the day. Only buy tickets on the boat – if you buy them from the numerous ticket touts on the dockside, you will be overcharged. There are no regular boats to Santa Catarina, San Antonio or San Lucas: pickups and buses serve these communities, or charter a lancha, US$30 return to Santa Catarina and San Antonio. Bad weather can, of course, affect the boat services. Crossings are generally rougher in the afternoons, worth bearing in mind if you suffer from sea-sickness.

Boat hire and tours

Lanchas can be hired to go anywhere round the lake, about US$100 for 5 people for a full day. For round trips to San Pedro and Santiago and possibly San Antonio Palopó, with stopovers, go early to the lakefront and bargain. Trip takes a full day, eg 0830-1530, with stops of 1 hr or so at each, around US$6-7, if the boat is full. If on a tour, be careful not to miss the boat at each stage – if you do, you will have to pay again.

Bus

Rebuli buses leave from opposite Hotel Fonda del Sol on Calle Real, otherwise, the main stop is where Calle Santander meets Calle Real. Rebuli to Guatemala City, 3½ hrs, US$3.30, crowded, hourly between 0500 and 1500. To Guatemala City via Escuintla south coast, 8 a day plus 3 Pullman a day. Direct bus to Quetzaltenango, 7 a day between 0530 and 1415, US$2.70, 2½ hrs. There are direct buses to Los Encuentros on the Pan-American Hw (US$0.75). To Chichicastenango direct, Thu and Sun, 0645, 0700, 0730 and then hourly to 1530. Other days between 0700-1500, US$2, 1½ hrs. There are 4 daily direct buses to Cuatro Caminos, US$1.60 from 0530, for connections to Totonicapán, Quetzaltenango, Huehuetenango, etc. To Antigua take a bus up to Los Encuentros through Sololá. Change for a bus to Chimaltenango US$3.10, and change there for Antigua. There is also a direct bus (Rebuli) to Antigua leaving 1030-1100, daily, US$4.40. To Sololá, US$0.40, 20 mins, every 30 mins. You can wait for through buses by the market on Calle Real. The fastest way to southern Mexico is probably by bus south to Cocales, 2½ hrs, 5 buses between 0600 and 1400, then many buses along the Pacific Hwy to Tapachula on the border. For La Mesilla, take a bus up to Los Encuentros, change west for Cuatro Caminos. Here catch a bus north to La Mesilla. Some travel agencies go direct to San Cristóbal de las Casas via La Mesilla, daily at 0600.

Shuttles

Services are run jointly by travel agencies, to Guatemala City, Antigua, Quetzaltenango, Chichi and more. Around 4 a day. Antigua, US$14, Chichicastenango, on market days, US$15, Quetzaltenango US$20 and the Mexican border US$40.

Bicycle

Several rental agencies on Calle Santander, eg Maco Cycle Rental and Tono Cycle Rental. Also Alquiler de Bicicletas Emanuel, on Calle 14 de Febrero. The cost is upwards of US$2 up per hr or about US$10 for a day.

Motorcycle

Motorcycle hire

About US$6 per hr, plus fuel and US$100 deposit. Try Maco Cycle near the junction of Calle Santander and 14 de Febrero, T7762-0883.

Motorcycle parts

David’s Store, opposite Hotel Maya Kanek, has good prices and also does repairs.

Banks

Banco Industrial, Calle Santander (TCs and Visa ATM), Calle Real, US$, TCs and cash, Visa ATM opposite. There is a cambio on the street near Mayan Palace for US$ cash and TCs.

Internet

Many in centre, shop around for best prices; standard is US$1 per hr. Cheaper in the old town.

Medical services

Centro de Salud Calle Real, just downhill from the road to San Antonio Palopó. Farmacia Santander, top end of Calle Santander, very good and helpful.

Post office

Calle Santander. Difficult but not impossible to send parcels of up to 1 kg abroad as long as packing requirements are met. Get Guated Out, Centro Comercial, Av Los Arboles, T/F7762-0595, good but more expensive service, they use the postal system but pack and deal with formalities for you. DHL, Edif Rincón Sai, Calle Santander.

Telephone

Telgua, Calle Santander and internet cafés.

Language schools

Jardín de América, Calle 14 de Febrero, T7762-2637, http://www.jardindeamerica.com. US$80 for 20 hrs per week tuition, lodging with family costs an additional US$60 per week. Jabel Tinamit, behind Edif Rincón Sai, T7762-0238, http://www.jabeltinamit.com. Similar tariff.