San Salvador travel guide

Background

San Salvador was first established by Gonzalo, brother of the conquistador Pedro de Alvarado, in 1525. The settlement was named in honour of Christ the Saviour who, Pedro believed, had saved him from death in his first attempt to conquer the peoples of Cuscatlán, as the region was then known. In 1528 the town was moved to a site near present-day Suchitoto, only to be relocated 20 years later to its present location. Over the next three centuries it developed into the capital of the province of San Salvador. The city has been destroyed by earthquakes 14 times since 1575, the last being in 1986. Nowadays the buildings are designed to withstand seismic shocks, and most stood up well to the earthquake of 2001.

Best time to visit

The climate is semi-tropical and healthy, and the water-supply relatively pure. Days are often hot, especially in the dry season, but the temperature drops in the late afternoon and nights are usually pleasantly mild. Since it is in a hollow, the city has a very bad smog problem, caused mainly by traffic pollution. Efforts are being made to reduce vehicle emissions.

Safety

The city centre is considered by many to be dangerous after dark, but the area north of Bulevar de los Héroes up to around San Antonio Abad is quite safe. As a general rule, stay out of poorly lit areas and keep to main roads where there are more people around. At night, taxis are a sensible alternative if you don’t know where you’re going exactly.

Armed security personnel are commonplace. There is a heightened atmosphere of tension in some areas. In downtown markets, don’t carry cameras, don’t wear watches or jewellery and don’t flash money around.

Getting around

The main focal points of the city are the historical centre, the commercial district some 3 km to the west around Boulevard de los Héroes, and the residential and commercial districts of Escalón and Zona Rosa another 2 km further west. City buses and taxis are needed to get between the three .

Four broad streets meet at the centre: Avenida Cuscatlán and its continuation Avenida España run south to north; Calle Delgado and its continuation Calle Arce, with a slight blip, from east to west. This principle is retained throughout: the avenidas run north to south and the calles east to west. The even-numbered avenidas are east of the central avenidas, odd numbers west; north of the central calles, they are dubbed Norte, south of the central calles Sur. The even-numbered calles are south of the two central calles, the odd numbers north. East of the central avenidas they are dubbed Oriente (Ote), west of the central avenidas Poniente (Pte). Sounding more complicated than it is, the system is straightforward and quickly grasped.

Ins and outs

Getting there

The international airport (SAL) is at Comalapa, 62 km southeast of San Salvador towards Costa del Sol beach, reached by a four-lane, toll highway. Some domestic flights use the old airport at Ilopango, 13 km east of the capital. Most international buses arrive at the Puerto Bus terminal, although luxury services and Ticabus have their own terminals. Domestic bus lines use terminals at the east, south and west ends of the city. .

San Salvador

Air

The international airport (SAL), T2339-9455, at Comalapa is 62 km southeast from San Salvador towards Costa del Sol beach. Acacya minibus to airport, from 3 Calle Pte y 19 Av Norte, T2271-4937, airport T2339-9182, at 0600, 0700, 1000, 1400 (be there 15 mins before), US$3 one-way (leaves from airport when full, on right as you go out). Acacya, T2271-4937, also has a taxi service, US$25, the same as other radio taxi companies; ordinary taxis charge US$20. Taxi to La Libertad beach US$30. To Costa del Sol US$50. There is a post office, a tourist office, 2 exchange desks, (including Citi Bank) and duty-free shopping for both departures and arrivals.

The old airport is at Ilopango, 13 km east of the city and is primarily used by the air force and for some domestic flights.

Airline offices

American Airlines, Alameda Roosevelt, Edificio Centroamericana, 3107, T2298-0777. Copa Airlines, T2209-2600, http://www.copaair.com. Delta, 81 Av Norte y Calle El Mirador, Edif WTC, local 107, piso 4, Col Escalón T2275-9292, http://www.delta.com. Grupo TACA, Oficinas Centrales Santa Elena (behind American Embassy), T2267-8222, http://www.taca.com. Mexicana, Edificio Mejicana de Aviación, 2 nivel, Km 4.5, Carretera Sta Tecla, T2252- 9999, http://www.mexicana.com. United Airlines, T2279-3900, http://www.united.com.

Bus

Local

Most buses stop running at 2100. City buses charge US$0.20 and microbuses charges US$0.25 within the city – have the right change or a small bill to hand. Most run 0500-2000, after which use taxis.

Some useful routes

: 29 from Terminal de Oriente to Metrocentro via downtown; 30 Mercado Central to Metrocentro; 30B from Mundo Feliz (100 m up from Esso station on Blv de los Héroes) to Escalón, 79 Av Norte, Zona Rosa (San Benito), Alameda Roosevelt and back to Metrocentro along 49 Av; 34 San Benito–Mercado de Artesanías–Terminal de Occidente–Mercado Central–Terminal Oriente; 52 ‘Paseo’ Parque Infantil–Metrocentro–Plaza Las Américas– Paseo Escalón–Plaza Masferrer; 52 ‘Hotel’ Parque Infantil–Metrocentro–Hotel Copa Airlines–Plaza Masferrer. Route 101 buses to/from Santa Tecla are blue and white for either class of service.

Domestic services go from Terminal de Occidente, off Blv Venezuela, T2223- 3784 (take city buses 4, 7C, 27, 44 or 34); Terminal de Oriente, end of Av Peralta in Centro Urbano Lourdes (take city buses No 29 from Metrocentro, 42 from Alameda, or No 4, from 7 Calle), T2281-3086, very crowded with buses and passengers, keep your eyes open for the bus you want; and Terminal Sur, San Marcos, Zona Franca, about 9 km from the city (take city bus No 26 from Universidad Nacional area or Av España downtown, take taxi to city after 1830). Terminal de Sonsonate, located just outside city center, by main road to Acajutla T2450-4625, Terminal de Santa Ana T2440-0938. Routes and fares are given under destinations.

Long distance and international

Heading south Recognized international bus company Ticabus departs from Hotel San Carlos, Calle Concepción 121,T2222-4808, http://www.ticabus.com. Also with an office in Blv del Hipódromo, Zona Rosa, T2243-9764. To Tapachula 0600 and 1200 noon, 11 hrs, US$30. To Guatemala, 0600 and 1300, 5 hrs, US$15. To Tegucigalpa, 1200, 7 hrs, US$15. To Managua, 0500, 12 hrs, US$30. To San José, 33 hrs including overnight in Managua, US$50. To Panama City, depart 0500, arriving 1700 next day, US$75. They now have an executive coach service to Nicaragua for US$44, and Costa Rica US$58, (both depart 0300) and to Panama at 0500, US$93. King Quality, Puerto Bus Terminal, Alameda Juan Pablo II y 19 Av Norte, T2241-8704; in Zona Rosa T2271-1361, http://www.king-qualityca.com. You can walk there from city centre, but it’s not advisable with luggage; take bus 101D from Metrocentro, or bus 29, 52 to 21 Av Norte, 2 blocks south of terminal (city buses don’t permit heavy luggage). The terminal has a casa de cambio (good rates) and a restaurant. They have departures to Central America and Mexico. Departure times from Puerto Bus station (check office for times from Zona Rosa).

Service to Guatemala with domestic carriers include Pezzarossi, Taca, Transesmer, Melva, and Vencedora. All operate services to Guatemala City more or less hourly (5½ hrs, US$13). Departures between 0500 and 1600. Confortlines (sister company of King Quality) has departures to Guatemala at 0800 and 1400 for US$30 – higher-class bus than the regular service but no meals. Pullmantur, T2243-1300, runs a 0700 service Mon-Sat, 0830 Sun, and a daily luxury 1500 service from Hotel Marriott Presidente in Zona Rosa for US$35, with a/c, film, drinks and meals. Service to Mexico also from Terminal de Occidente, El Cóndor goes to Talismán, Mexico via Sonsonate, La Hachadura and Escuintla, US$12, 0330, 9½ hrs, also 0700- 0800 to Guatemala City. Transgalgos has direct departures to Mexico from Puerto Bus.

Car

Car hire

Local insurance (about US$10-15 per day plus a deductible US$1000 deposit) is mandatory and 13% IVA applies. Avis, 43 Av Sur 137, Col. Flor Blanca http://www.avis.com.sv, T2500-2847; Budget, Hotel Sheraton Presidente, Col San Benito T2283-2908 and Calle Mirador and 85 Av Norte 648, Col Escalón, T2264-3888, http://www.budget.com; Hertz, corner of 91 Av Nte and 9 Calle Pte, T2264-2818, http://www.hertz.com; Sandoval & Co, T2235-4405, sub-compact late-model cars from US$10 per day, English spoken; Euro Rent-Cars, 29 Calle Pte and 7 Av Norte 1622, T2235-5232, chamba_r@hotmail.com, cheap daily rates from US$10.

Car repairs

Modern service centres of Record and Impressa, are found throughout the capital. Good source of spare parts found at Super Repuestos, T2221-4440.

Insurance

Asesuiza is widely used for car insurance T2209-5025 as is La Centroamericana, T2298-6666.

Car papers

Ministerio de Hacienda, T2226-1900, ‘Tres Torres’, turn left on Blv de los Héroes, 300 m past Texaco station.

Taxi

Plenty (all yellow), don’t have meters, ask fare before getting in. Trips within San Salvador will have a mininum cost of US$4 and most trips will be between US$4 and US$7. Airport is approximately US$25. Few drivers speak English. They will charge more in the rain. More expensive radio taxis may be hired through Acacya, T2271-4937.

Banks

Most banks open Mon-Fri 0900-1600, Sat 0900-1200. The banks have branches in all the shopping malls and in large hotels such as Princess Hilton and Radisson. ATMs only give US dollars. Banco Agrícola Comercial de El Salvador, Paseo Escalón 3635, T2279-1033, English spoken. HSBC give good rates for TCs and Visa card advances.

Most banks give cash advance on your credit card if you bring your passport. In emergency, for Visa International or MasterCard, T2224-5100; Visa TCs can only be changed by Visa cardholders. Visa ATMs can be found at Aval card 24-hr machines, the majority at Esso and Shell service stations (eg Esso, Blv de los Héroes), but also at Metrocentro, 8th floor food court, and Centro de Servicio, Av Olímpica. Western Union for money transfers, c/o HSCB branches, T2225-2503 (48 other branches throughout the country, look out for the black and yellow sign), head office Alameda Roosevelt 2419 between 45 y 47 Av Sur, T2298-1888, Mon-Fri 0800-1700, Sat 0800-1200, take passport and photographic ID (30 mins if from USA/Canada, 2-3 hrs from Europe). Banco de América Central (Ex-Credomatic), next to Siman in Metrocentro and CC San Luis gives cash advances on credit cards.

Cultural centres

Alianza Francesa, 5 Av Norte 152, Col Escalón, T2260-5807 and new location in Col San Benito: Calle La Mascota 547 , Pasaje 2, http://www.afelsalvador.com. Union Church, Calle 4 Final, Col La Mascota, T2263-8246, English-speaking interdominational international church, weekly church services and bible studies, volunteering opportunities. Centro de Intercambio y Solidaridad (CIS), Blv Universitario 4, next to Cine Reforma, T2226-2623, http://www.cis-elsalvador.org, for language classes, FMLN (Frente Farabundo Martí para la Liberación Nacional) programmes and schools. Instituto para el Rescate Ancestral Indígena Salvadoreño (RAIS), Av Santiago 20, Col San Mateo, has programmes for local aid to indigenous communities and the Nahual language and customs.

Embassies and consulates

Belize, Calle el Bosque Ote y Calle Lomas de Candelaria I, Block “P1”, Col Jardines de la 1a Cima Etapa, T2248-1423. Costa Rica, Calle Cuscatlán 4415, between 81 and 83 Av Sur, Col Escalón, T2264-3863. Canada, Centro Financiero Gigante and Alameda Roosevelt y 63 Av Sur Lobby 2, local 6, T2279-4659. France, 1 Calle Pte 7380, Col Escalón, T2298-4260. Germany, 77 Av Norte y 7 Calle Pte 3972, T2263-2088. Guatemala, 15 Av Norte 135 between 1 Calle Pte and Calle Arce, T2271-2225. Holland, I Calle Pte 3796, T2298-2185. Honduras, 89 Av Norte 561, between 7 and 9 Calle Pte, Col Escalón, T2263-2808. Israel, Centro Financiero Gigante, Torre B, 11 piso, Alameda Roosevelt y 63 Av Sur, T2211-3434. Italy, La Reforma 158, Col San Benito, T2223-4806. Mexico, Pasaje 12 y Calle Circunvalación, San Benito, behind Hotel Presidente, T2248-9906. Nicaragua, Calle Mirador and 93 Av Norte 4814, Col Escalón, T2263-8849. Norway, Calle Cuscatlán 133 between 83 and 81 Av Sur, Col Escalón, T2263-8257. Panama, Av Buganvilia No21, Col San Francisco T2298-0773. Spain, Calles la Reforma 164, Col San Benito, T2257-5700. Sweden, Alameda Manuel E Araujo y 67 Av Sur 3515, T2281-7901. Switzerland, Pastelería Lucerna, 85 Av Sur y Paseo Escalón 4363, T2263-7485. USA, Blv Santa Elena, Antiguo Cuscatlán, T2278-4444, outside the city, reached by bus 101A.

Emergency

Fire service, T2555-7300. Red Cross, Av Henry Dunat y 17 Av Norte, T2224-5155, 24-hr. Police, T911, no coin needed from new coin phones. In San Salvador, metropolitan police respond to the tourist complaints.

Immigration

Departamento de Inmigración, Centro de Gobierno, T2221-2111, Mon-Fri 0800-1600. Will consider extending tourist visas, but be prepared with photos and plenty of patience. Migración y Extranjería, Plaza Merliot and Hipermall Cascadas saves the trip to Centro de Gobierno and has quicker service.

Internet

Cafés (roughly US$1 per hr) are found throughout the city, especially at shopping malls.

Language schools

Centro de Intercambio y Solidaridad, Blv Universitario 4, T2226-2623, www.cis- elsalvador.org. Spanish school in the mornings 0800-1200, English school in the afternoons 1700-1900 (volunteer English teachers needed for 10-week sessions). Cihuatan Spanish Language Institute (Ximena’s Guest House), Calle San Salvador 202, Col Centro América (near Hotel Real Intercontinental), T2260-2481, ximenas@navegante.com.sv; US$8 per hr.

Libraries

The UCA library (Universidad Centro- americana), José S Cañas, Autopista Sur, is said to be the most complete collection. US information library at American Chamber of Commerce, 87 Av Norte 720, Apto A, Col Escalón, Apdo Postal (05) 9, Sr Carlos Chacón, speaks English, helpful. Centro Cultural Salvadoreño, Av Los Sisimiles, Metrocentro Norte, T2226-9103, 0800-1100, 1400-1700, English library, excellent. Intercambios Culturales de El Salvador, 67 Av Sur 228, Col Roma, T2245-1488, extensive Spanish and English reference library, local artistic exhibitions, computer school.

Medical services

Hospitals and clinics

Hospital de la Mujer, between 81 and 83 Av Sur y Calle Juan José Cañas, Col Escalón (south of Paseo, bus 52 Paseo), T2223-8955. Hospital Pro-Familia, 25 Av Norte 483, 11 blocks east of Metrocentro, T2244-8000, clinics and 24-hr emergency, reasonable prices. Hospital Rosales, 25 Av Norte y 3 Calle Pte, T2231-9200, long waits. Clínicas Médicas, 25 Av Norte 640 (bus 3, 9, 44 centro from Universidad Nacional), T2225-5233. If you contract a serious stomach problem, the doctor will send you for tests, which will cost US$5-6.

Doctors

Dr Cesar Armando Solano, at Av Bernal 568, Col Yurimuri T2261-1657, excellent dentist and low prices. English spoken. Medicentro La Esperanza, 27 Av Norte is a good place to find doctors in most specialist fields, afternoons mostly after 1500. Dr Jorge Panameno, T2225-9928, English-speaking, specialist in tropical diseases, makes house calls at night for about US$50.

Post office

Central Post Office at the Centro de Gobierno with EMS, T2527-7600. Good service to Europe. Mon-Fri 0730-1700, Sat 0730-1200. Lista de Correos, Mon-Fri 0800-1200, 1430-1700, good service for mail collection. Branches throughout the city.

Telephone

Phone boxes throughout the city, card only, available at fast-food stores such as Pollo Campero; direct dialling to anywhere in the world, also collect calls. Telephone cards for sale in pharmacies and stores, denominations from US$1 upwards.

Work

UCA University Simeon Cañas, Blv Los Próceres San Salvador, T2210-6600, http://www.uca.edu.sv. An English-language programme always needing certified English teachers.