Some 68 miles from Belize City and 10 miles from the border, San Ignacio (locally called Cayo) is the capital of Cayo District and Western Belize’s largest town, an agricultural centre serving the citrus, cattle and peanut farms of the area, and a good base for excursions into the Mountain Pine Ridge and west Belize. It stands amid attractive wooded hills at 200-500 ft, with a good climate, and is a nice town to rest in if coming from Guatemala. The town is on the eastern branch of the Old, or Belize River, known as the Macal. The 180-mile river journey down to Belize City is internationally famous as the route for the annual ‘Ruta Maya Belize River Challenge’, a gruelling three-day canoe race held the weekend of Baron Bliss Day, 9 March.
Four miles west of San Ignacio on a good road is Bullet Tree Falls, a pleasant cascade amid relaxing surroundings on the western branch of the Belize River, here in its upper course known as the Mopan River.
Twelve miles north of San Ignacio is El Pilar, an archaeological site that straddles the border with Guatemala. Although it is a large site (about 94 acres), much of it has been left intentionally uncleared so that selected architectural features are exposed within the rainforest. The preserved rainforest here is home to hundreds of species of birds and animals. There are five trails – three archaeological, two nature – the longest of which is 1.5 miles. There are more than a dozen pyramids and 25 identified plazas. Unusually for Maya cities in this region, there is an abundance of water (streams and falls). Take the Bullet Tree Road north of San Ignacio, cross the Mopan River Bridge and follow the signs to El Pilar. The reserve is 7 miles from Bullet Tree on an all-weather limestone road. It can be reached by vehicle, horse or mountain bike (hiking is only recommended for the experienced; carry lots of water). The caretakers, who live at the south end of the site in a modern green-roofed house, are happy to show visitors around. The Cayo Tour Guides Association works in association with the Belize River Archaeological Settlement Survey (BRASS) and can take visitors.
Local tour operators generally offer similar tours at similar prices. Canoe trips up the Macal River are worthwhile. They take about three hours upstream, 1½ hrs on return. Hiring a canoe to go upstream without a guide is not recommended unless you are highly proficient as there are Grade II rapids one hour from San Ignacio. Another trip is to Barton Creek Cave, a 1½-hour drive followed by a 1½-hour canoe trip in the cave. The cave vault system is vast, the rock formations are beautiful, the silence is eerily comforting and all can be explored for a considerable distance by canoe (US$55 per person minimum two people). Tours can be arranged at almost every place in San Ignacio.
For a more adventurous caving tour, you shouldn’t leave without going to Actun Tunichil Muknal (ATM) Cave (the Cave of the Stone Sepulchre), a one-hour drive from San Ignacio to the Tapir Mountain Nature reserve, a 45-minute jungle hike in the reserve and then 3½ hours of adventurous, exhilarating caving, US$75. Besides the beautiful rock formations, this cave is full of Maya artefacts and sacrificial remains. The guides from both Emilio Awe’s Pacz Tours and Mayawalk, are recommended. Mayawalk also run an overnight ATM tour (US$180). Under 8s and pregnant women are discouraged from taking this tour.
Trips to the nearby ruins of Xunantunich are very easy by bus, regular traffic going to the Guatemalan border. Tours of Mountain Pine Ridge are available , but shop around carefully – if you decide to go with a taxi you probably won’t get far in the wet season. Trips to Caracol are best arranged from San Ignacio, you can arrange a day trip that will maximize your time spent at the ruins. On a good road 9 miles west of San Ignacio is the tranquil town of Benque Viejo del Carmen, near the Guatemalan border. Many of the inhabitants are Maya Mopan....
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