San Isidro de El General travel guide

History and sights

The rapid but low-key growth of recent years would have given the town a blank historical slate bar one major and highly significant event. According to the Museo Nacional in the capital, José María Figueres used the town as a foothold from which to launch the short civil war of 1948. The events of that year led to the creation of the modern political era in Costa Rica and to the abolition of the nation’s armed forces.

From the ‘provoke a response’ school of architecture, the startling mid-1950s cathedral in honour of San Isidro Labrador, was for some a bold statement, for others nothing short of sacrilegious. Inside the temple is light, bright and breezy with a few refreshing approaches to religious iconography.

Buses from San José with Musoc, T2222-2422 or T2771-0414, leave the capital from C Central, Av 22-24, every hr on the ½ hr from 0530 to 1830, 3 hrs, US$3.80. Return buses from 0500-1730. Most buses for destinations south of San José pass through San Isidro so try Tracopa, Av 5 and C 14, T2222-2666, as well.

Buses heading west from San Isidro go to Dominical then north to Quepos and south to Uvita from the Transportes Blanco terminal, T2771-2550. To Dominical at 0700, 0900, 1330 and 1600, 1½ hrs, US$1.50. To Quepos at 0700 and 1330, 3½ hrs, US$2.50. To Uvita at 0900 and 1600, passing through Dominical, 2 hrs, US$1.90.

Local buses tend to leave from the newish bus terminal to the south of the main plaza. Buses to San Gerardo de Rivas and Cerro Chirripó leave at 0530 (from the main plaza) and 1400 (from the bus terminal), returning at 0700 and 1600.

Continuing south, buses leave from the Tracopa terminal, T2771-0468. You can either turn up and wait for the next hourly bus passing through or get the precise times from your hotel. Timetables vary depending on road conditions and it is normally not possible to buy tickets in advance as buses may be full. Tracopa have services heading south to Buenos Aires, 4 daily, 4 hrs, US2, Palmar Norte, Ciudad Neilly and Paso Canoas, 0830, 1600, 1930 and 2100, 4 hrs to Paso Canoas, US$6.80. David, Panama, at 1030, 5hrs. Golfito, at 1000 and 1800, 4 hrs, US$6.30. Puerto Jiménez, 0500 and 1300, 5 hrs, US$4.50, and San Vito 0900, 1100, 1430 and 1745, 3 hrs, US$5.70.

Ins and outs

Getting there San Isidro is the main transport hub for the southern region, making it a good place to change buses. The Pan-American Highway slices through, draining and supplying the town with a constant flow of produce and people from the north and south. A road heads west to Dominical and the Pacific coast. Regular buses ply all routes with terminals on or close to the highway. See Transport, page , for further details.

Getting around The main areas of interest in the town – hotels, restaurants and bus terminals – are within a seven-block square, all easy walking distances.

Best time to visit The skies are clearest from December-April. If you’re in town in February you may catch the livestock and agricultural festival. On 15 May the death of San Isidro Labrador, the patron saint of the town and agricultural workers, is celebrated. The anniversary of the city’s founding is celebrated on 9 October.

Banks Banco Nacional, on north side of plaza, Mon-Fri, 0830-1545. Banco Popular, Mon-Fri, 0815-1700, with a Visa ATM. Internet Bruncanet, on the north side of plaza, US$1.25/hr, also Net 2 Phone service. Open Mon-Sat 0800-2000, Sun 0900-1700, T2771-3235. Internet el Balcón, Av 4, next to BCR, T2771-6300. New place, new machines. PC Web, US$1/hr, open Mon-Fri 0800-2200, closes at 1700 Fri. Language schools SEPA, 5 blocks west of the main plaza, T2770-1457, http://www.spanish-school-costarica.com, has Spanish language classes. It’s a far quieter option than San José and recommended by several volunteer organizations. From US$195 a week for 20 hrs of classes a week, US$333 staying with a local family. They also provide classes by the hour, US$18. Laundry There’s a launderette a couple of blocks west of the main plaza. Post office The post office is 3 blocks south of the church. Telephone ICE office on C 4, Av 3 – Pan-American for international calls. Useful addresses The MINAE office, a couple of blocks west of the main plaza, T2771-4836 or T771-3155, is useful for booking accommodation and making reservations to climb Cerro Chirripó. Open Mon-Fri 0800-1200. Emergencies: T911.