San José travel guide

History

For much of its colonial history Costa Rica, with Cartago as its capital, was on the fringes of the New World. Most of the isthmus was governed by the Audiencia de Guatemala which, ruling from southern Mexico in the north down to modern day Costa Rica in the south, barely mustered interest in the distant trading outpost. To the south, Panama much preferred wealthy trade with the riches of South America.

Left alone with little colonial meddling, a slow and sometimes painful growth saw a string of communities build up in the central highlands, among them San José (1737), Heredia (1706) and Alajuela (1782). In the mid-18th century San José was a ramshackle collection of farms but by the end of the century, a monopoly in tobacco trade had given the city a slight prominence over other towns of the region, fuelling the development and early signs of civic pride. When news of Guatemala’s independence from Spain in 1821 finally reached Costa Rica – delivered with such indifference that the news took over a month to arrive – the citizens of San José, with the shoots of a promising coffee industry beginning to appear, were confident of their ability to assume the status of capital.

The emerging agricultural elite, combined with the entrepreneurial spirit of the time, created conflict between the emerging towns, pitting the youthful, energetic and independently minded cities of San José and Alajuela against the more traditional forces of Cartago and Heredia who favoured annexation to a Central America Federation. The dispute was settled in 1823 at the Battle of Ochomongo but skirmishes continued for a further 20 years as the four towns fought for ascendancy of the Central Valley.

The victorious outcome for San José set a path for the nation’s growth. Forced by necessity to enter the world economy, a flurry of activity promoted trade in mining and lumber, but it was coffee from the Central Valley that provided a stable and reliable market. As growth of the golden bean was promoted, cafetaleros (merchant classes) developed to take advantage of new opportunities. They controlled the export and processing of coffee as well as the credit going to family farms, getting rich in the process and quickly becoming the most influential players in the early development of the young republic.

The wealth provided by a coffee elite which sold directly to Europe quickly brought return trade in European tastes to the capital. Infrastructure improved through the mid to late 19th century with the introduction of two-storey buildings, street lamps and cabs. The cultural landscape shifted with the introduction of language classes, Shakespeare, operetta and cockfighting. The University of Santo Tomás opened in 1843 and by 1897 the Teatro Nacional (National Theatre), financed by a coffee tax, stood at the centre of the capital as monument to the extravagant wealth, style and tastes that now dominated the lives of rich Josefinos. Although coffee cultivation spread throughout the Central Valley, the strength of the coffee oligarchy ensured San José remained in control.

The air of opulence was considerably dampened by the depression of the 1930s and as the country spent a couple of decades drifting through depression, economic and social reform and civil war, the capital’s stylish extravagance became a distant memory. However, when economic growth stimulated expansion in the late 1950s, industrial development fuelled new prosperity in the capital and San José grew at the expense of the surrounding rural communities as people flocked to its bright lights. The rapid growth of the city, in the absence of urban planning, quickly destroyed its European charm, replacing it instead with blocked streets and increasing pollution. Today Josefinos are broadly indifferent about their capital. However, like a close family member, the city’s weaknesses are not an area for public discussion – certainly not by foreigners.

Best time to visit

The best time to visit San José is from December to April when you are guaranteed clear skies and very little rain. At other times of year, trips out to the surrounding volcanoes may be eerie but ultimately disappointing because the peaks are often completely covered in cloud if you don’t make an early start. The capital enjoys a comfortable climate throughout the year with temperatures fluctuating around the 20°C (68°F) mark by just a few degrees. The mildest time of year is January and February (15-23°C/59-73°F). By May the hottest weather is on its way but the temperatures have tweaked only slightly higher to 18-26°C (64-79°F). In essence you may want a jumper for early mornings, evenings and late nights, but by day a shirt is ideal. Rainfall, however, which becomes a regular occurrence from May to November, changes the situation dramatically. The rainfall is rarely permanent, and tends towards intense, torrential downpours that last a few hours. Josefinos prefer the umbrella to the raincoat as protection – vendors of cheap paraguas come out of the shadows when the rainfall begins. Get one and join in!

Festivals and celebrations are held throughout the year in the Plaza de la Cultura but the single greatest festival in the capital is 15 September, Independence Day, when costumed parades move down the street, to the rhythm of marching bands.

San José

There are a few festivals in or close to the city that are worth looking out for if you happen to be in town at the time. Unlike many Latin American festivals which revolve heavily around drink, those in San José tend to be far more salubrious.

San José

Air

A good network of regional airports makes for quick and efficient travel around the country. Prices are reasonable and schedules are frequent enough to make it worth considering taking a flight if time is tight – certainly to places like Puerto Jiménez, Tortuguero and Barra del Colorado.

The main domestic air services are provided by SANSA and Nature Air. SANSA, Edif Colón, 1st floor, Office 1-31, San José, T2223-4179, http://www.flysansa.com, operates from the domestic terminal of Juan Santa María International Airport to the northwest of the capital. NatureAir, T2299-6000, http://www.natureair.com, from Tobías Bolaños airport, 5 km west of San José in the district of Pavas. Tickets can be arranged direct or through most travel agents.

Charter flights are also available and reasonably affordable if travelling in a group. Most charter companies work out of Tobías Bolaños airport.

Airline offices

Aeroperlas. Air France, Of Ejecutivo La Sabana Edif 6, 7th floor, Sabana Sur, T2220-4111, http://www.airfrance.com. Alitalia, Paseo Colón Edificio Torre Mercedes, 2nd floor, T2295-6820, http://www.alitalia.it. American Airlines, Edif Centro Cars, Sabana Este, T2248-9010, http://www.aa.com. British Airways, http://www.ba.com. Continental, Oficentro La Virgen, Edif 2, Pavas, T0800-044-0005, http://www.continental.com. Copa, Edi Torres Mercedes, 1st floor, Paseo Colón, T2223-2672, http://www.copaair.com. Delta, 100 m east and 50 m south of Toyota, Paseo Colón, Edif Elizabeth, San José, T0800- 056-2002 , http://www.delta.com. Grupo Taca. Iberia, Oficentro Tical, Río Segundo, Alaguela, T2431-5633, http://www.iberia.com. Japan Airlines, C 34, Av 6, T2257-4646, http://www.japanair.com. KLM, behind Controlaría General Building, Sabana Sur, T2220-4111, http://www.klm.com. Martinair (subsidiary of KLM) – Sabana Sur, behind Controlaría General Building, T2232-3246, http://www.martinair.com. Mexicana, C 5, Av 7-9, T2257-6334, http://www.mexicana.com.mx. SANSA, Edif Colón, 1st floor, Office 1-31, San José, T2223-4179, http://www.flysansa.com. NatureAir, T2299-6000, http://www.natureair.com. United Airlines, Sabana Sur, behind Controlaría General Building, T1-800-538-2929, http://www.united.com.

Bus

Local

San José’s urban bus system is extensive and efficient enough (allowing for traffic congestion). Buses run from around 0500 until 2300 or so at night. Urban buses cost 100-140 colones (US$0.20-0.30) payable to the driver on boarding. It’s a little more (225-375 colones, US$0.45-0.75) for outer lying districts such as Escazú, Alajuela and Heredia. Buses get very crowded at rush hour, and luggage space is limited at the best of times.

Bus destinations are marked on the front of the bus. In theory, buses only stop for passengers to board and alight at official stops. Far from obvious, the cunningly disguised metal posts doubling up as stops are more likely to be found through accident than design. Labelled on one side with the destination, the bus stop blends in perfectly with the pavement furniture. The clearest indication is a neat line of people patiently queuing so join the end and wait.

General routes of interest

: heading west towards Parque Sabana down Paseo Colón from the centre of town, buses leave from along Av 3. Returning from Parque Sabana buses travel down Paseo Colón before joining Av 2. With these 2 routes you can move through the heart of the city. A cheap tour of San José can be made on the bus marked ‘periférico’ from Paseo Colón in front of the Cine Colón, a 45-min circle of the city. A smaller circle is made by the ‘Sabana/Cementerio’ bus travelling along Paseo Colón out to Parque Sabana and then returning along Av 10. Pick it up on Av 2, at Parque Morazán or on Av 3.

National

Buses cover the whole country and you can get between any two reasonably sized towns with just one bus journey. If there is not a direct service, you will be able to get a more local bus from a town near to your destination. The buses vary greatly in quality. Popular routes between cities are often served by luxury coaches with a/c and occasionally TV and video. Moving off the well-driven tarmac, the quality of bus matches the terrain perfectly: the rougher the road, the rougher the bus. Experienced global bus travellers will find the Costa Rican network pretty much a dream, first timers may have to learn the fine art of dozing while your head is bounced off.

Buses tend to leave on or close to the scheduled departure time, relatively uncommon in Latin America, so don’t be late. For the latest bus information you can contact the ICT office below the Plaza de la Cultura, or ask in your hotel.

Bus terminals and company offices are spread through out the capital, with a general concentration on the Coca-Cola district. For several years the terminal has been notorious, providing rich pickings for thieves. While the police presence has increased in the last year, it isn’t round- the-clock, so keep your wits about you and don’t leave bags unattended for a second. All destinations on the Caribbean coast are served by the new Gran Terminal del Caribe to the north of the city. In recent years there has been some consolidation in the long distance bus industry, and some companies now share offices and depots. If this continues, more locations may change.

For most bus journeys buying tickets in advance, even by a couple of hours, is a good idea although not essential, so visit the terminal before departure to buy a ticket. However, at holiday times, Christmas, New Year, Easter and if arrival at your destination by a certain time is important, book as far in advance as possible.

International

Nicaragua and Panama are served by good international bus services. The buses are comfortable, the service reliable and it is a good way of covering a lot of ground without the expense of a flight. Although it can hardly be called sightseeing, you will see a bit more than you would from an aeroplane. Several companies provide a service.

Tica Bus, Paseo Colón, 200 m north and 100 m west of Torre Mercedes, Nacional, T2221-8954, http://www.ticabus.com. Covers the whole of Central America up to Guatemala including a daily service to Panama City, departing at 2300, arriving in Panama City at 1500 the following day. From Panama the bus leaves at 1100, arriving in San José at 1400 the next day, US$26 one way. For Managua 3 buses a day, leaving at 0600, 0730 and 1230 arriving at 1400, 1500 and 2100. US$21 one way. Moving on from there involves an overnight stay, but the Tica Bus terminal in Managua does have some basic accommodation. Other international bus companies include: Sirca Express, Nicabus, Panaline and Tracopa.

Car hire

Paseo Colón is the home of the car hire firm. Practically every international and national company has an office and compound here. Most have an office at the airport as well so if you have booked in advance and want the vehicle immediately, arrange to pick it up at the airport. Office hours tend to be from 0800 until around 1800, while some companies open as early at 0530, staying open until 2200. Check hours to ensure you don’t miss the drop-off date and incur a penalty.

Adobe, 8 branches around the country, T2258-4242, http://www.adobecar.com. Japanese cars and 4WD, drop-off at the beach if you fly NatureAir or Sansa, flexible insurance, drivers aged 18-21 accepted with US$1500 on credit card. Alamo, Av 18, C 11-13, north side of Plaza González Víquez, T2242-7733, http://www.alamocostarica.com. 11 locations around the country. Avis, main office in Heredia, T2293-2222, http://www.avis.com. Well known international name with offices in Hotel Melia Cariari and Hotel Melia Corobicí. Budget, C 30, Paseo Colón, T2255-4750, http://www.budget.co.cr. Open Mon-Sat 0700-1800, Sun, 0700-1600, also at international airport, Liberia, Jacó, Sámara, Tambor, Mal País and Tamarindo. Dollar, Paseo Colón, C 32-34, T2257-0671, http://www.dollarcostarica.com. Very good rates. Economy, Paseo Colón, T2299-2000, http://www.economyrentacar.com. Many branches throughout the country including Liberia, Tamarindo and Jacó Beach. Europcar, Paseo Colón, C 36-38, T2440-9990, www.europcar. co.cr. Good cars and helpful staff. Several offices around the country. Hertz, C 38, Paseo Colón, T2221-1818, www.costarica rentacar.net. National, C 36, Av 7, T2290-8787, http://www.natcar.com. About 15 offices around the country. Open daily 0600-2200 . Payless, C 10 Av 13-15, Barrio México, T2257-0026, http://www.eleganterentacar.com. Cars, jeeps, vans, minimum age 23, has branches throughout the country. Toyota, Paseo Colón, T2258-5797, http://www.toyotarent.com. Good cars, very helpful staff, also have an office at airport and in Liberia. Tricolor, Paseo Colón, Av 30-32, T2440-3333, http://www.tricolorcarrental.com. Good cars at competitive prices with friendly service and a good map.

Motorcycles

Wild Rider Motorcycles, Paseo Colón, C 32 diagonal Kentucky, T2258-4604, http://www.wild-rider.com. Suzuki DR 250s and DR 350s available for rent from US$60 a day. Experience is essential not only to rent the bike, but also for your survival on the roads.

Taxis

The basic fee of 420 colones (US$0.80) plus 25 colones (5 cents) for every 100 m or so, makes most cross-town journeys affordable and efficient. There are several taxi ranks throughout the city – the main one is on the north side of Parque Central – you can hail a cab in the street or get your hotel to book one by telephone. As with taxis worldwide they’re everywhere on sunny days, but when it is raining or late at night you could end up waiting forever.

Taxis also offer alternative way of exploring the highlands. With a group of 4, this becomes a remarkably affordable way to travel without the hassles of driving yourself. A cab to Volcán Irazú is around 18,000 colones, (US$35). If taking a long distance ride, you may have to pay part of the fare in advance. Red cab drivers should have a list of recommended prices for most areas if you want to consider your options.

Centred on the Plaza de la Cultura, San José has little by way of geography or history to help newcomers get their bearings. The most useful locator is Avenida Central which for the course of its length draws a neat horizontal line through the city map. En route it guides you by, or pretty close to, the majority of the city’s attractions from the streetwise banter of the Mercado Central in the west to the formal governmental chaos of the National Assembly to the east.

A little further afield, the districts of Barrio Amón and Otoya to the northeast transport you to a world built on coffee wealth where once-common colonial splendour now stands more as a monument to grand living and architectural extravagance.

The ICT (Instituto Costarricense de Turismo) i daily 0900-1700 (the ICT also has a good website http://www.visitcostarica.com packed with hotel, tour operator and transport information), has an efficient and helpful tourist office below the Plaza de la Cultura (in addition to the information desk at Juan Santamaría International Airport). The staff can help with general information and maps, and assist with specific inquiries and problems. Other good sources of information are the numerous tour operators scattered throughout the city. While some may give you the hard sell, others are happy to provide the latest information on availability and accessibility.

San José

Banks

If you have a credit card, you can withdraw cash from ATMs dotted around San José and found in the lobbies of some of the better hotels. TCs and dollars can be changed in many hotels and in banks where queues can be long and service slow – not particularly unique to Costa Rica but something to bear in mind. Opening hours are generally 0830-1530 with some opening a little later and on Sat. Banco de Costa Rica, Av Central, C 6 y 4. 0800-1900. Banco de Crédito Agrícola, Av 4, C Central 1/2. 0800-1530. Banco de San José, Av 3 y 5, C Central, 0800-1900. MC ATMs. Cash advance against American Express, MC and Visa charging US$5 for up to US$1500. Banco Nacional, Av 1-3, C 2 y 4. 0830-1900. 24-hr Visa ATMs, TCs and cash changed on the 3rd floor. Banco Popular, Av 2, C 1. 0800-1500, Visa ATMs. Financiera Londres, Av 1, C Central, T2258-3003, will take TCs and change euros. OFINTERSA, Casa de Cambio, Edificio Schyfter, 2nd floor, 20 m north of the junction of Av Central and C2. Open 0830-1700, can be quicker than the banks when they are busy. Western Union, Av 4, C 9-11. Money transfer services, quicker than banks but you pay a price premium.

Cultural centres

Alianza Francesa, Av 7, C 5, T2222-2283, http://www.alianzafr.ac.cr. French newspapers, French films every Wed evening, friendly. Centro Cultural Costarricense Norte- americano, C 37, Av 1-5, Los Yoses, T2207- 7500, http://www.cccncr.com. Good films, plays, art exhibitions and English-language library, open until 1930. Instituto Británico, 50 m south of Automercado, Los Yoses, T2234-9054, http://www.institutobritanico.co.cr. Language classes as well as reference materials. Mexican Cultural Centre, C 41, Av 10, T2283-2333.

Embassies

Australia , no embassy in Costa Rica. Representation in Mexico at Rubén Darío No 55, Colonia Polanco 11580, México DF. T00-525-5531-5225, http://www.mexico.embassy. gov.au. Belgium, 4th entrance to Los Yoses, 25 m south of Subarú, T2225-6633, open 0730-1600. Canada, Building 5 (3rd floor) of Oficentro Ejecutivo La Sabana, Sabana Sur, T2242-4400, http://www.costarica.gc.ca, open 0800-1630, Fri until 1330. Denmark, no embassy in Costa Rica, nearest representation is in Nicaragua at Bolonia De Plaza España 1C abajo, 2 C al lago, ½ C abajo, Managua, T00-505-268-0250 al 55. France, 200 m south, 25 m west of Indoor Club, Curridabat, T2234-4167, open 0830-1230. Germany, Edif Torre La Sabana, 8th floor, 300 m west of ICE, T2290-9091, open 0715-1615. Israel, 11th floor, Edificio Colón, Paseo Colón, C 38 y 40, T2221-6444, http://sanjose.mfa.gov.il, open 0830-1630. Italy, 5th entrance to Barrio Los Yoses, T2234-2326, open 0900-1200. Japan, Edif Torre La Sabana, 10th floor, T2232-1255, http://www.cr.emb-japan.go.jp, open 0800-1200 and 1330-1700. Mexico, Av 7a No 1371, C 13-15, T2257-0633, open 0900-1200 and 1400-1630. Netherlands, 3rd floor, Edif 3, Oficentro Ejecutivo La Sabana, T2296-1490, http://www.nethemb.or.cr, open 0900-1200. Nicaragua, Av Central, C 25-27, opposite Pizza Hut, T2221-2924, open 0830-1630. Norway, representation in Nicaragua at 100 m east of El Güegüense roundabout, Managua, Nicaragua, T00-505-266-5197, http://www.noruega.org.ni. Panama, C 38, Av 7 (275 m north of Centro Colón building, Paseo Colón), T2280-1570, open 0900-1400. South Africa, representation in Mexico. Spain, C 32, Paseo Colón, T2222-1933. Sweden, represented in Guatemala at Octava Av 15-07 Zona 10, Guatemala City, T00-502-2384-7300, open 0900-1200. Switzerland, 2nd floor, Edif Colón, Paseo Colón, C 38, T2221-4829, open 0730-1600. United Kingdom, 11th floor, Edif Colón, Paseo Colón, C 38, T2258-2025, http://www.britishembassy.gov.uk/costarica, open 1400-2200. United States, opposite Centro Comercial, Pavas, T2519-2000, www.us embassy.or.cr, Mon-Fri 0800-1130.

Internet

Cybercafé Las Arcadas, in the basement of Edificio Las Arcadas, next to the Gran Hotel Costa Rica. Open 7 days a week, 0700-2100, very helpful staff, 500 colones 1 hr. Good machines. Internet Café, 4th floor, Av C, C4, open 0900-2200. A better way to spend less money at just 400 colones per hr and for each part of an hour. They have several branches around town including 2nd floor, Av Central, C Los Estudiantes, open 0900-2100, at the western end of Paseo Colón in Edifico Colón, C 38-40, and, if you just have to tap all night, there is a 24-hr café in San Pedro, close to Banco Popular.

Language schools

The number of schools has increased rapidly in recent years. Listed below are a selection of widely respected school and those recommended by readers. Academia Latinoamericana de Español, Av 8, C 31- 33, San Pedro Montes de Oca, T2224-9917, http://www.alespanish.com. Academia Tica, out in San Isidro de Coronado and with a school in Jacó, T2229-0013, http://www.academiatica.com. Good chance of avoiding the crowds. AmeriSpan, PO Box 58129, Philadelphia, PA 19102, T1-800-879-6640 (USA and Canada), http://www.amerispan.com. 10 affiliated schools in Escazú, Alajuela, Heredia and throughout the country. Centro Lingüístico Conversa, Apdo 17, Centro Colón 1007, San José, T2221-7649, toll free on T1-888-669-1644, http://www.conversa.co.cr. Has 2 schools, one just off Paseo Colón and also out in Santa Ana. Costa Rican International Language Academy, Barrio Dent, from Autos Subarú, 300m north and 50 m west on C Ronda, T2280-1685, http://www.spanishandmore.com. Latin American music and dancing on top of language study and local accommodation. Costa Rica Spanish Institute, San Pedro district, T2234-1001, http://www.cosi.co.cr, with a homestay in San José or the beach programme based in Manuel Antonio. Institute for Spanish Language Studies, T2258-5111, in the US on T1-800-765-0025, http://www.isls.com, has eight schools in Costa Rica, offering innovative and flexible programmes. Instituto Británico, Los Yoses, T2225-0256, http://www.institutobritanico.co.cr, with classes in English and Spanish. Instituto de Español Costa Rica, A 1, C Central – C 1, Guadalupe, T2280-6622, http://www.professionalspanish.com. Close to the centre of San José, and complete with its own B&B ($$). English, French and German spoken. Many offers including 2 for 1 deals. Instituto Universal de Idiomas, Av 2, C 9, Apdo 751-2150 Moravia, San José, T2223-9662, http://www.universal-edu.com. Stress on conversational Spanish. Intensa, C 33, Av 1-3, Barrio Escalante, T2281-1818, www. intensa.com. Intercultura Language & Cultural Center, Heredia, T2260-8480, http://www.interculturacostarica.com.

Laundry

All but the very cheapest hotels will do laundry if requested. Laundry Las Arcadas, next to Las Arcadas internet café beside the Gran Hotel Costa Rica, daily 0800-1900, self service, US$3 per load, also dryers available. Lavandería Lavamex, Av Central y 1, C 8, in small shopping mall below Gran Hotel Imperial, T2258-2303. US$8 wash and dry. Book swap, very popular with travellers. More than just a laundry, Karl and Patricia offer priceless travel advice on Costa Rica and can also help if you have problems. Sixaola, branches in Alajuela and Sabanilla, 2-hr dry cleaning available, expensive. Martinizing, US franchise, at Curridabat, Sabana Oriente (by new ring road) and Escazú.

Libraries

Biblioteca Nacional, (National Library) Av 3, C 5-7, is a useful reference resource for anyone looking to research Costa Rica with several current special interest periodicals, and copies of all national newspapers dating back to 1833. No lending facilities. Mon-Fri 0800-1630, open to foreigners with identification. Centro Cultural Costarricense Norteamericano, C 37, Av 1-5, has a good library. Universidad de Costa Rica in San Pedro suburb, east of central San José.

Medical services

The standard of medical facilities in Costa Rica, and in San José in particular, is very high. Call your embassy for a recommendation. The clinic of choice for residents is Clínica Bíblica, C 1, Av 14, T2257-5252, http://www.clinicabiblica.com, which also has an emergency service and a 24-hr pharmacy. Hospital CIMA, 1 km east of the Multiplaza on the Santa Ana road, T2208-1000, http://www.cimahospital.com is a modern hospital that opened in 2000. Fully equipped for 24-hr emergencies and pharmacy. Social Security Hospitals have good reputations (free to social security members), but few members of staff speak English.

Doctor: Dr Jorge Quesada Vargas, Clínica Internacional, Av 14, C 3-5, speaks German. Dentist: Dra Fresia Hidalgo, Uned Building, San Pedro, T2234-2840, 1400-1800. English spoken, reasonable prices, recommended. Fernando Baldioceda and Silvia Oreamuno, 225 m north of the Toyota intersection on Paseo Colón, both speak English. Pharmacies: widespread through the city. There are a couple on Av 2 close to the junction with C Central and several close to Hospital San Juan on Paseo Colón. Red Cross Ambulance: T2221-5818.

Post offices

The Central Post Office takes up much of a block with the entrance on C 2 between Av 1 and 2, open 0730-1800, Mon-Fri, 0730-1200 Sat, closed Sun. If you are picking letters up from the Lista de Correos you can read them in the stylish Teando Café. The Museo de Filateca may also take up a little of your time. There is also a Visa ATM machine in the post office.

Courier services

are also available from San José. DHL, Paseo Colón, Calle 34, Edif Elizabeth, 1st floor, T2210-3838, http://www.dhl.com. Federal Express, World Service Center, Paseo Colón, 100 m east of the León Cortés statue, San José, T0800- 052-1090, http://www.fedex.com. UPS, 50 m east of Pizza Hut, Pavas, San José T2290-2828, http://www.ups.com.

Useful addresses

Emergencies : T911. Immigration is on the airport highway, opposite Hospital México. You need to go here for exit visas, extensions, etc. If they are busy, you could queue all day. To get there, take bus 10 or 10A Uruca, marked ‘México’, then cross over highway at the bridge and walk 200 m along highway. Better to find a travel agent who can obtain what you need for a fee, say US$5. Make sure you get a receipt if you give up your passport. Judiciary, thefts should be reported in San José to Recepción de Denuncias, Organismo de Investigación Judicial (OIJ), C19, Av 6-8, T2222-1365. Sistema Nacional de Areas de Conservación (SINAC, Apdo 10104- 1000, T2234-0973, http://www.sinac.go.cr) in San José administers the National Park system. For information and permits to visit and/or camp in the Parks apply to Fundación de Parques Nacionales (FPN), 300 m north and 175 m east of Santa Teresita Church, Barrio Escalante, C 23, Av 15, San José, T2257-2239, http://www.fpncostarica.org, open Mon-Fri 0800-1200, 1300-1700. Most permits can be obtained at park entrances, but check in advance if your trip depends on gaining entrance. To contact park personnel by radio link or make accommodation reservations, T2233-4160, but good Spanish is a help (bilingual operators at National Parks can be reached by dialling 192). If you make reservations at their San José office, make sure they have made them direct with the park and that you have clear confirmation to avoid difficulties on arrival. If you want to work as a volunteer in the parks, contact SINAC. An alternative is to contact ASVO (Asociación de Voluntarios para el servicio en las Areas Protegidas), Av 3-5, C 36, San José, T2258-4430, http://www.asvocr.org.