Arriving in Puerto Limón (population 61,494), you can instantly feel the difference in atmosphere and it isn’t just the high humidity or almost-daily rains. A rocky outcrop in a generally featureless coastline, Limón has born the brunt of its geographical prominence. With fortunes rising and falling, Limón had, and still has, all the problems and nefarious energy associated with the transient populations of port towns worldwide. Columbus dropped anchor on Isla Uvita off the coast and later waves of labourers arrived from the Caribbean and China to work on the railroads. They created a unique cultural diversity and a ready labour supply for the banana plantations and burgeoning eastern port. For most the town is tolerated at best and visited only in passing – if driving, you don’t even have to do that if you are heading for the south Caribbean. But for all this negative talk, on the right day and with the right attitude, Limón is a refreshing change and a challenge. The town may care little for the tourist but it’s a rare chance to slip into community life without being pampered for your precious tourist dollars – unless you arrive for carnival .
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