In 1970, when Cancún was ‘discovered’ by the Mexican tourist board, it was an inaccessible strip of barren land with beautiful beaches; the only road went straight past Cancún to Puerto Juárez for the ferry to Isla Mujeres, which had been a national tourist destination since the 1950s. Massive international investment and government sponsorship saw the luxury resort of Cancún completed within 25 years. The 25-km hotel zone, set on a narrow strip of land in the shape of a number seven alongside the coast, is an ultra-modern American-style boulevard, with five-star hotels, high-tech nightclubs, high-class malls and branches of US chain restaurants. Cancún’s presence on the international tourism market is indisputable. From all-in-one package tours to international government conferences, it’s worth a trip just to see what it’s like. Despite significant damage by hurricane Wilma in 2005, Cancún has managed to recover rapidly and retains its place as Mexico’s prime resort.
Downtown Cancún is a world apart from the resort area. It evolved from temporary shacks housing the thousands of builders working on the Hotel Zone, and is now a massive city with very little character. The main avenue is Tulum, formerly the highway running through the city when it was first conceived. It is now the location of the handicraft market, the main shops, banks and the municipal tourist office. There are also restaurants, but the better ones are along Avenida Yaxchilán, which is also the main centre for nightlife.
The cheaper end of the city, and a good area for budget travellers to base themselves, is around El Crucero. The rest of the city is fairly expensive, but not as much as the Hotel Zone. The city is laid out in supermanzanas (SM), the blocks of streets between avenues, with smaller manzanas (M), or blocks, within them. Often the address you are given is, for example, SM24, M6, L3. L stands for lote, and is the precise number of the building within its manzana. This can lead to confusion when walking about, as the streets also have names, often not mentioned in the addresses. Look closely at street signs and you will see the SM and the M numbers. Taxi drivers generally respond better to addresses based on the manzana system. Also confusingly, there are several one-way streets with the same name, running parallel to each other, in opposite directions – this applies to all the streets with names of flowers in the centre; Margaritas, Tulipanes, etc. If you can’t find a street number, chances are the place you’re looking for is in the next street....
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