Celestún travel guide

A small, dusty fishing resort west of Mérida much frequented in summer by Mexicans, Celestún stands on the spit of land separating the Río Esperanza estuary from the ocean. The long beach is relatively clean except near the town, although rising afternoon winds usually churn up silt and there is little shade. There are beach restaurants with showers. A plain Zócalo watched over by a simple stucco church is at the centre of what little that happens in town. Even the unmarked post office (Mon-Fri 0900-1300) is a private residence the rest of the week.

The immediate region is a biosphere reserve and a great area for birdwatching, created to protect the thousands of migratory waterfowl that inhabit the lagoons; fish, crabs and shrimp also spawn here, and kingfishers, black hawks, wood storks and crocodiles may sometimes be glimpsed in the quieter waterways. In the winter months Celestún plays host to the largest flamingo colony in North America, perhaps more than 20,000 birds – in the summer most of the flamingos leave Celestún for their nesting grounds in the Río Lagartos area. If visiting independently, boat trips to view the wildlife are best arranged just after the river bridge, 1 km back along the Mérida road, where they are cheaper (US$40 for one six people, plus US$3 per person for the reserve entrance fees, 1½ hours). If staying on the bus till the end of the road, boat owners sometimes charge as much as US$100 per boat, but there’s good swimming here and a restaurant serving excellent seafood. Make sure your boatman takes you through the mangrove channel and to the Baldiosera freshwater spring in addition to visiting the flamingos. It is often possible to see flamingos from the bridge early in the morning and the road to it may be alive with egrets, herons and pelicans. January to March is the best time to see them. It’s important to wear a hat and use sunscreen. Hourly buses to Mérida’s terminal at Calle 50 and 65, two hours, US$3.40.