Yucatán travel guide

The Maya arrived in the Yucatán about 1200 BC and built monumental stone structures during the centuries up to the end of the pre-Classic period (AD 250). Later they rebuilt their cities, but along different lines, probably due to the influence of the Toltecs, who arrived in the ninth and 10th centuries. Each city was autonomous and in rivalry with other cities.
The Spaniards found little to please them when they first arrived in the Yucatán: no gold, no concentration of natives; nevertheless Mérida was founded in 1542 and the few natives were handed over to the conquerors in encomiendas . The Spaniards found them difficult to exploit: even as late as 1847 there was a major revolt, fuelled by the inhumane conditions in the henequén (sisal) plantations. It was the expropriation of Maya communal lands that was the main source of discontent, however. In July 1847, a conspiracy against the Blancos, or ruling classes from Mexico, was uncovered in Valladolid and one of its leaders, Manuel Antonio Ay, was shot. This precipitated a bloody war, known as the Guerra de Castas (Caste War) between the Maya and the Blancos. The first act was the massacre of all the non-Maya inhabitants of Tepich, south of Valladolid. The Maya took control of much of the Yucatán, laying siege to Mérida, only to abandon it to sow their crops in 1849. This allowed the governor of Yucatán to counterattack, ruthlessly driving the Maya into southern Quintana Roo. In Chan Santa Cruz (now named Felipe Carrillo Puerto), one of the Maya leaders, José María Barrera, accompanied by Manuel Nahuat, a ventriloquist, invented the ‘talking cross’, a cult that attracted thousands of followers. The sect, called Cruzob, established itself and renewed the resistance against the government from Mexico City. It was not until 1901 that the Mexican army retook the Cruzob’s domain.

A good paved road runs from Coatzacoalcos to Villahermosa, Campeche and Mérida (Route 180). An inland road from Villahermosa to Campeche gives easy access to Palenque . If time is limited, take a bus from Villahermosa to Chetumal via Escárcega, which can be done overnight as the journey is not very interesting (unless you want to see the Maya ruins off this road). From Chetumal travel up the coast to Cancún, then across to Mérida. Route 307, from Chetumal to Cancún and Puerto Juárez, is paved and in very good condition. Find flight details from the US and Mexico City under Mérida, Cancún and Cozumel.

Quintana Roo state, on the eastern side of the Yucatán Peninsula, has become the largest tourist area in Mexico with the development of Cancún, the parallel growth of Isla Mujeres, Cozumel and the 100-km corridor south of Cancún to Tulum. There can be insufficient buses at peak times; old second-class buses may be provided for first-class tickets and second-class buses take far too many standing passengers. There is also a lack of information services. Where beaches are unspoilt they often lack all amenities. Many cheaper hotels are spartan.

Warning Many tourists speak no Spanish, so price hikes and short-changing have become common, making those places very expensive if you are not careful. In the peak (winter) season, prices increase by about 50%.

Quintana Roo (and especially Cozumel) is the main area for diving and water sports in the Yucatán Peninsula. However, water sports in Quintana Roo are expensive and touristy, although operators are generally helpful; snorkelling is often in large groups. On the more accessible reefs the coral is dying and there are no small coral fish. Further from the shore, though, there is still much reef life to enjoy. Take care not to damage these sensitive reefs further.
A useful website on the Yucatán is http://www.yucatantoday.com.