Acapulco travel guide

Background

Acapulco derives its name from a Nahautl title ‘the place where reeds were destroyed’, which refers a local Yope legend concerning a tragic love affair between Prince Acatl (‘reed’) and Princess Quihuitl (‘rain’). Belonging to rival tribes, their love could never be realised through marriage, so Prince Acatl sank into depression, died and transformed into a swamp of reeds. Upon finding him, Princess Quihuitl, who had been drifting the shores in the form of a cloud, was so heartbroken that she rained down in a storm, destroying the reeds and dying alongside her loved one.

Acapulco’s colonial history began in 1521, when Fernando Chico arrived on a reconnaissance mission. He named the bay Santa Lucía and 11 years later it came under the official dominion of the Spanish crown. It was renamed ‘City of Kings’, and soon flourished as a major port and vital component in the Manilla trade route. Convoys of Spanish merchants would arrive to unload precious Far Eastern cargoes such as spices, ivory, silks and porcelain, then transport them overland to Veracruz, where they would be packed off for Spain. Acapulco was also the site of a giant annual trade fair, bringing yet more wealth and attention from pirates. However, after the War of Independence, the trade route collapsed and the city languished until the construction of the Mexico City highway in 1927.

Starting in the 1930s, enterprising individuals began constructing luxury hotels, restaurants and discos. Then, during the 1940s and 1950s, the city flourished as an international resort, hosting the likes of Elvis, Frank Sinatra and the Kennedys. But by the 1970s, it had become overcrowded and overdeveloped, and commercial interests moved elsewhere along the coast, settling in Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo, as well as Cancún and the Riviera Maya. Once again, Acapulco fell into decline, until the 1990s, when a government injection of one billion US dollars overhauled the city’s infrastructure. Fresh waves of tourist interest ensued, North American ‘spring-breakers’ chief among them. But sadly, in recent years, gang-related violence has darkened the bright horizon. The global recession too, may stilt the city’s plans for revitalization.

Safety

Acapulco has now sunk into the bloody mire of Mexico’s drug war as rival cartels battle for supremacy of vital trafficking routes along the Guerrero coast. In 2006, there were several nasty execution-style murders and, to the horror of foreign holidaymakers, a decapitated head washed up on the beach. Subsequently, two Canadian tourists were caught in the cross-fire of a street battle. But since then, thanks to a heavily armed military presence that includes several thousand soldiers, you are highly unlikely to encounter any trouble first-hand. As ever, most violence is confined to the impoverished suburbs. Petty crime certainly is an issue, especially on beaches, where thieves scour the sands for unattended items. Lone women should beware sexual harassment and others be prepared for occasionally impolite hawkers, who can be dismissed with a friendly smile and a firm ‘no gracias’. Hotel rooms are also sometimes looted and taxi drivers are generally untrustworthy. Don’t listen to any driver who tells you your hotel is fully booked and beware of overcharging. As a foreign tourist in a commercial resort, you will be regarded as a source of revenue by scam artists and locals. You are to be milked, as much as possible, for money, money and more money.

Getting around

The most useful bus route runs the length of Costera Miguel Alemán, linking the older part of town to the different beaches and hotels. Bus stops are numbered, so find out which number you need to get off at.

Getting there

Aeropuerto Alvarez Internacional (ACA) (T744-435 2060, http://www.oma.aero) is 23 km southeast of Acapulco. The airport shuttle, US$6 one-way, takes one hour to town; the ticket office is outside the terminal. Return trips are also available (viaje redondo), so keep your ticket and call 24 hours in advance for a taxi. It is possible to find a microbus for Puerto Marquez, where you can connect with buses for Costera Miguel Alemán. A private taxi from the airport to the centre should cost US$20-25. It’s worth negotiating.

There are several bus stations around town. To get to the Zócalo from the main Estrella Blanca terminal, Central Ejido, Ejido 97, 3 km north of downtown, catch a ‘Centro’ or ‘Caleta’ bus. Estrella Blanca’s other first class terminal is located next to Parque Papagayo, Central Papagayo, Cuauhtémoc 1605; it’s connected to the downtown area by ‘Caleta’ buses or to the Zona Hotelera by ‘Río-Base’ buses. Estrella de Oro, Cuauhtémoc 1490, has its own terminal and is located two blocks east of Parque Papagayo. Taxis can be found outside all terminals, but it is much cheaper to walk half a block down the road and catch one that’s passing.

Air

There are direct connections to many US cities and charter flights from Europe in the summer. Good domestic connections include Mexico City, Ciudad Juárez, Cuernavaca, Culiacán, Guadalajara, León, Monterrey, Puerto Vallarta, Toluca and Tijuana.

Airline offices

Aeromar, Blv de Las Naciones s/n, Plan de Los Amates, T744-446 9394. AeroMéxico, Av Costera Miguel Alemán, No 286, T744-485 2280. American Airlines, airport, T744-446 9232. Aviacsa, Av Costera Miguel Alemán 178, T744-481 3240. Avolar, Blv de las Naciones s/n, Poblado de los Amates, T744-466 9373. Click/Mexicana de Aviacion, La Gran Plaza, Locales 8, 9 & 10, T744-486 7569. Continental, airport, T744- 446 9063. Delta, airport, T800-123 4710. Interjet, Prolongación Farrallón y Av Costera Miguel Alemán, Centro Comercial Plaza Marbella 26, T744-484 5124. US Airways, airport, T800-428 4322.

Local

There are several bus routes, with one running the full length of Costera Miguel Alemán and linking the older part of town to the latest hotels, marked ‘Caleta-Zócalo-Base’, US$0.50. Buses to Pie de la Cuesta, 12 km, US$0,60. From Ejido bus terminal to the Zócalo for the ‘Zócalo-Caleta’ bus.

Long distance

There are several bus stations. Estrella Blanca has two 1st-class terminals: Terminal Ejido, Ejido 97, for Mexico City, Taxco, Puerto Escondido, Zihuatanejo and other coastal destinations; and Terminal Papagayo, Cuauhtémoc 1605, with buses for Mexico City, Cuernavaca, Puebla, Guadalajara and Tijuana, among others. Nearby, the 1st-class Estrella de Oro Terminal, Cuauhtémoc 1490, esq Massieu, has services to Chilpancingo, Mexico City, Taxco and Zihuatanejo. The 2nd-class Estrella Blanca Terminal, Cuauhtémoc 97, serves mostly local destinations in Guerrero state.

To Chilpancingo, hourly or better, 2-3 hrs, US$7. To Cuernavaca, 7 daily, 5 hrs, US$22. To Mexico City, 6 hrs, US$30-45. To Oaxaca, no direct bus, so take a buses to Puerto Escondido (7 a day, US$24) or Pochutla (5 a day, US$28); also via Pinotepa Nacional (at 2100) but on a worse road. To Puerto Escondido, 7 a day, 9½ hrs, US$24. To Tapachula, take Impala 1st-class bus to Huatulco, arriving 1930; from there Cristóbal Colón at 2030 to Salina Cruz, arriving about 2400, then take 1st- or 2nd-class bus. To Taxco, 10 daily, 4 hrs, US$16. To Zihuatanejo, 4-5 hrs, hourly, US$12.

Taxi

Most fares around town cost US$2-5, airport shuttle to the Zona Hotelera costs around US$6 (private taxi US$20-25). Taxis are more expensive from outside bus terminals; catch one on the street for US$3 to the Zócalo. Acapulco’s taxistas are ruthless, so take care and beware scams, rip-offs and overcharging, especially if travelling from the bus station or airport.

Car hire

Many car hire outlets, especially in the Zona Hotelera. Avis, Av Costera M Alemán 139-C, T744-484 5720; Budget, Av Costera M Alemán 93, Local 2, T744-481 2433; Hertz, Av Costera M Alemán 137-A, corner of Sandoval, T744-485 8947.

Banks

There are numerous many banks with ATMs in the Old Town (near the Zócalo) and Zona Hotelera.

Embassies and consulates

Canada, T744-484 1306, Local 23, Centro Comercial Marbella, corner of Prolongación Farallón and Miguel Alemán, Mon-Fri 0900-1400. France, Av Costera M Alemán 91, T744-484 4580. Norway, Maralisa Hotel, T744-484 3525. Spain, Av Costera Miguel Alemán, T744-435 1500. Sweden, Av Insurgentes 2, T744-485 2935. UK Edificio Hemisphere, Migel Aleman 49, T744-484 3331. USA, Hotel Continental, Av Costera M Alemán, T744-469 0556, 0900- 1400.

Immigration

Juan Sebastián el Cuno 1, Costa Azul el Lado, T744-484 9021, 0800- 1400, take a ‘Hornos Base’ bus from Miguel Alemán, US$0.35, 30 mins, visa extensions possible.

Internet

Cafés normally charge US$1 per hr, good speeds.

Laundry

Tintorería Bik, 5 de Mayo. Lavadín, José María Iglesias 11a, T744- 482 2890, next to Hotel Colimense, recommended. Various other places on the streets around the Zócalo.

Post office

Costera 125, 2 blocks south of Zócalo.

Telephone

Public offices will not take collect calls; try from a big hotel (ask around, there will be a surcharge).