San Juan Chamula is the ceremonial centre of the Chamula with the largest of the Tzotzil speaking Indian groups
Signs in Chamula warn that it is dangerous to walk in the area on your own; robberies have occurred between Chamula and both San Cristóbal and Zinacantán. It’s generally best to seek full advice on any travel outside San Cristóbal de las Casas.
In this Tzotzil village 10 km northwest of San Cristóbal the men wear grey, black or light pink tunics, while the women wear bright blouses with colourful braids and navy or bright blue shawls. One popular excursion is to visit the brightly painted church (a permit (US$1.50) is needed from the village tourist office and photographing inside the church is strictly forbidden) . There are no pews but family groups sit or kneel on the floor, chanting, with rows of candles lit in front of them, each representing a member of the family and certain significance is attached to the colours of the candles. The religion is centred on the ‘talking stones’ and three idols as well as certain Christian saints. Pagan rituals are held in small huts at the end of August. The pre-Lent festival ends with celebrants running through blazing harvest chaff. This happens just after Easter prayers are held, before the sowing season starts. Festivals in Chamula should not be photographed; if you wish to take other shots ask permission; people are not unpleasant, even if they refuse (although children may pester you to take their picture for a small fee). For reasons of cultural understanding and safety it is recommended that you visit Chamula on a tour.
There are many handicraft stalls on the way up the small hill southwest of the village. This has a good viewpoint of the village and valley. Take the road from the southwest corner of the square, turn left towards the ruined church then up a flight of steps on the left.
It is an interesting walk from San Cristóbal to Chamula along the main road to a point 1 km past the crossroads with the Periférico ring road (about 2½ km from town centre); turn right onto an old dirt road, it’s not signposted but it is the first fork you come to between some farmhouses. Then head back via the road through the village of Milpoleta, some 8 km downhill; allow five hours for the round trip (one hour for Chamula). Best not done in hot weather. Also, you can hike from Chamula to Zinacantán in 1½ hours: when leaving Chamula, take the track straight ahead instead of turning left onto the San Cristóbal road; turn left on a small hill where the school is (after 30 minutes) and follow a smaller trail through light forest. After about an hour you reach the main road 200 m before Zinacantán....
more San Juan Chamula photos
San Juan Chamula videos
