San Cristóbal de las Casas travel guide

Best time to visit

Due to its altitude, San Cristóbal has a pleasantly mild climate compared to the hotter Chiapas towns such as Palenque and Tuxtla. During June, July and August, it is warm and sunny in the morning, while in the afternoon it tends to rain, with a sharp drop in temperature. Warm, waterproof clothes are needed, although the heavy rains conveniently stop in the evening, when you can enjoy San Cristóbal’s many cheap restaurants and friendly bars and cafés. The winter months of December, January and February can get very chilly, particularly at night with temperatures dropping to only a few degrees above zero (celsius).

Getting around

Most places are within walking distance of each other although taxis are available in town, US$1.40 for any journey in the centre, and to the nearby villages; the cheaper colectivos run on fixed routes only.

Getting there

The first class OCC and ADO bus terminal is at the junction of Insurgentes and Bulevar Sabines Gutiérrez, several blocks south of the centre. Other second-class lines and shuttle operators, including AEXA and Rodolfo Figueroa, also have nearby terminals on Gutiérrez, which soon becomes the Pan-American highway. The airport serving San Cristóbal is now closed to commercial traffic, Tuxtla is the nearest point of entry. Those travelling to Palenque by car will have fine views but should avoid night-time journeys because of armed robberies.

Air

Tuxtla Gutiérrez is the nearest airport.

Bicycle hire

Los Pingüinos, Av Ecuador 4B, T967- 678 0202, http://www.bikemexico.com/pinguinos. Open 0915-1430, 1600-1900, rents mountain bikes for US$10 for 4 hrs or US$14 per day. Guided biking tours half or full days, as well as longer guided tours, English, German spoken, beautiful countryside and knowledgeable guides, highly recommended.

Bus

Crowded microbuses to San Juan Chamula (every 20 mins until 1700, last one back 1900, US$1, or taxi US$4), Zinacantán (30 mins, sometimes with frequent stops while the conductor lights rockets at roadside shrines, US$0.75, or get a group to share a colectivo, US$8.50), San Andrés Larráinzar, Tenejapa and other villages depart from around the market, north of the centre on Utrilla. Don’t get stranded, as there isn’t any tourist infrastructure.

There is a Ticketbus office in the pedestrianized part of Real de Guadalupe in the centre of San Cristóbal that stays open until 2200, daily. Very convenient for booking tickets without venturing as far as the OCC terminal.

Long distance

The 1st-class OCC and ADO bus terminal is at the junction of Insurgentes and Blv Sabines Gutiérrez, several blocks south of the centre. Other 2nd-class lines and shuttle operators, including AEXA and Rodolfo Figueroa, also have nearby terminals on Gutiérrez, which soon becomes the Pan-American highway. There’s also a variety of smaller bus companies and shuttles services that leave from the main road near the OCC bus station, with departures as far afield as Tijuana and other parts of northern Mexico, as well as Ocosingo, Palenque and nearby villages.

From the 1st-class terminal to Campeche, OCC, 1820, 10 hrs, US$25. To Cancún, OCC, 1215, 1430, 17 hrs, US$46; and ADO GL, 1545, US$58. To Chetumal, 1st class (OCC and ADO), 1215, 1430, 1605, 12 hrs, US$33 ADO GL, 1545, US$40. To Ciudad Cuauhtémoc, OCC, 0745, 1130, 1730, 3 hrs, US$6. To Comitán, OCC, frequent services, 1½ hrs, US$3. To Mérida, OCC, 1820, 13 hrs, US$36. To Mexico City OCC 1610, 1740, 1810, 2230, 13-14 hrs, US$60 and 1 ADO GL 1700, 13 hrs, US$72. To Oaxaca, OCC, 1805, 2245, 10 hrs, US$28; and ADO GL, 2000, US$33. To Palenque, 8 OCC and ADO GL daily, 5 hrs, US$9.50-11. AEXA buses to Palenque, 0630, 1150, US$6. To Playa del Carmen, OCC, 1215, 1430, US$47; and ADO GL, 1545, US$55.50. To Pochutla, OCC, 1915, 2200, 12 hrs, US$27. To Puebla, 4 OCC and 2 ADO GL daily, 11 hrs, US$53-64. To Puerto Escondido, OCC, 1915, 2200, 13 hrs, US$30. To Tapachula, 7 OCC daily, 8 hrs, US$16. To Tuxtla Gutiérrez, OCC, many daily, 1 hr, US$2. To Tulum, OCC, 1215, 1430, 1605, 14½ hrs, US$44; and ADO GL, 1545, 16 hrs, US$52. To Veracruz, OCC, 2045, 8½ hrs, US$40; and ADO GL, 2115, 9 hrs, US$47. To Villahermosa, OCC, 1120, 2300, 7 hrs, US$16. Agua Azul, 0630, 1150, US$4. Tuxtla Gutiérrez, combis every 10 mins from outside AEXA terminal from 0500, US$2.50. 1st-class OCC buses depart for Ciudad Cuautémoc and the border daily. Alternatively, there are frequent departures to Comitán, from where you can catch a pick-up or colectivo, hourly from 0700, around US$1.

Shuttles

Shuttles to Tuxtla regularly depart from the terminals on Gutiérrez, near the 1st-class bus terminal, 1 hr, US$2.50. You’ll find shuttles to Ocosingo in the same area. Several operators run direct shuttles to the Guatemalan border and beyond, including Travesia Maya. Destinations include La Mesilla, Quetzaltenango, Antigua, Flores and Panajachel, US$30-60. It’s a convenient and comfortable option if you can afford it. There are also regular departures to Guatemala from the OCC terminal itself, all departing at 0745 daily; to Huehuetenango, US$14; to Los Encuentros, US$19; to Cuatro Caminos, US$17 and to Guatemala City, US$24.

Car hire

Optima, Diego de Mazariegos 39, T967- 674 5409; and Hertz, Villas Mercedes, Paniagua 32, T967-678 1886.

Scooters

Croozy Scooters, Belisario Domínguez 7, http://www.prodigyweb.net.mx/croozyscooters.

Open Tue-Sun 0900, closing times vary. Rents bikes and small scooters, a good way of moving around. Minimum payment US$14, minimum rental 2 hrs, US$25 per day. They provide maps and suggested routes. Deposit and ID required. Bikes US$2 per day. Friendly. Swiss-British run. Recommended.

Taxi

US$1.40 anywhere in town, colectivo US$0.70.

Tour operators and guides

There are many agencies to choose from. As a rough guide to prices: to San Juan Chamula and Zinacantán, US$12; horse riding to San Juan Chamula, US$12. Sumidero Canyon, US$20 (including the boat trip); Montebello Lakes and Amatenango del Valle, US$18; Palenque ruins, Agua Azul and Misol-Há, US$22; Toniná ruins, US$26. There’s also a 3-day jungle trip option taking in Agua Azul, Misol-Há, the ruins at Bonampak, Cedro River Falls, Yaxchilán and Palenque ruins. Camping in the jungle, US$250. Day trips to Bonampak and Yaxchilán are also possible, but they are much cheaper if booked in Palenque; take care to check what is included in packages.

Banks

Banamex, Insurgentes 5, changes cheques without commission, 0900-1300. Banca Serfín on the Zócalo, changes Euro, Amex, MasterCard, TCs. Bancomer, Plaza 31 de Marzo 10, charges commission, cash advance on Visa, American Express or Citicorp TCs, good rates and service. Casa de Cambio Lacantún, Real de Guadalupe 12, Mon-Fri 0900-1400, 1600-1900, Sat and Sun 0900-1300 (may close early), no commission, at least US$50 must be changed and much lower exchange than at the banks. Casa Margarita will change dollars and TCs. Banks usually open for exchange 0900-1600. HSBC, Diego de Mazariegos 6, good rates for cash and TCs (US$ only), fast, efficient, cash advance on MasterCard, open Sat afternoons. 24-hr ATM at Banorte, 5 de Febrero, adjacent to cathedral. Quetzales can be obtained for pesos or dollars in the cambio but better rates are paid at the border.

Immigration

On Ctra Panamericana and Diagonal Centenario, opposite Hotel Bonampak. From Zócalo take Diego de Mazariegos west, after crossing bridge take Diagonal on the left towards Highway, 30-min walk.

Internet

There are many internet cafés all over town with rates around US$0.80 per hr. Service is generally good.

Laundry

Superklin, Crescencio Rosas 48, T967-678 3275, US$1.30 per kg, for collection after 5 hrs. La Rapidita, Insurgentes 9, coin-operated machines for self-service or they will launder clothes for you 1-3 kg US$3.50.

Medical services

Doctors: Servicio Médico Bilingüe, Av Juárez 60, T967-678 0793, Dr Renato Zarate Castañeda speaks English, is highly recommended and if necessary can be reached at home, T967-678 2998. Hospitals and clinics: Red Cross, Prolongación Ignacio Allende, T967-678 0772. Recommended. Pharmacies:widely available around town.

Post office

Allende and Mazariegos, Mon-Fri 0800-1600, Sat 0900-1200.

Telephone

Caseta Telefonicas can be found all over the city. There are also Ladatel phones on the plaza, but these are generally more expensive than casetas.