Getting there
General Rafael Buelna International Airport (20 km south of town along Route 15, T669-982 2399, www.aero/en/) receives flights from Mexico City, destinations in northern and western Mexico and the US. Planes are met by the usual fleet of fixed-fare taxis and microbuses. The main bus station is 3 km north of the old town centre, with local buses and taxis providing links to the old town. First-class buses arrive from most major cities west and north of the capital, while second-class buses connect with smaller towns such as San Blas. The ferry terminal is at the southern end of Avenida del Puerto, quite a way from the centre; a bus runs from the street corner opposite the terminal to Avenida Ejército Méxicano near the bus station. Ferries run to La Paz, in Baja California .
For drivers, Route 15, the coastal road, heads north to the US border, and south to Tepic then inland to Guadalajara (or follow Route 200 to the border with Guatemala along the coast); Route 40, a good 20 km east of the city, is the picturesque but hair-raising road to Durango.
Air
Aeropuerto General Rafael Buelna (MZT), 3 km from centre, has domestic flights to Guadalajara, Mexico City and major cities in northern Mexico. International connections to San José (Costa Rica), Calgary (Canada), Denver, Houston, Los Angeles, Phoenix, Portland, Salt Lake City, San Francisco, Seattle and Spokane (Washington).
Airline offices
AeroMéxico, T669- 984 1111. Mexicana, T669-913 0770.
Bicycle
The Mazatlán–Tepic–Guadalajara road has been described as ‘the most dangerous in the world for cyclists’. This is an over-statement (there are many in Mexico alone more dangerous) but utmost precaution should be taken as vehicles drive at excessive speeds at all times and there often is no hard shoulder.
Bus
A large central terminal, making travel a bit easier, is just off the Ctra Internacional and Ferrusquilla s/n, about 3 km north of the Old Town, 4 km south of the Zona Dorado. Take a bus marked ‘Insurgentes’ from the terminal to Av Ejército Mexicano for the centre, via the market at Aquiles Serdán.
To Chihuahua, 1400, 1800, 16 hrs, US$44. To Durango, hourly 0600-1900, 7 hrs, US$27. To Guadalajara (at Tonalá, outside city), 8 hrs, hourly, US$30. To Guaymas, hourly, 11 hrs, US$42. To Los Mochis, hourly or better, 6 hrs, US$23.50. To Mexicali, TAP, 13 daily, 24 hrs, US$70. To Mexico City, 17 hrs, US$70.80. To Navojoa, every 1½ hrs, 8 hrs, US$30.40. To Nogales, every 1½ hrs, 18 hrs, US$62.70. To Puerto Vallarta, TAP, 2300, 2430, 8 hrs, US$24.65. To Tepic, hourly, 5 hrs, US$14.65. To Tijuana, hourly, 26 hrs, US$77.75. To Rosario, US$1.25, you can then (with difficulty) catch bus to Caimanero Beach.
Buses to Alamos run every hour on the ½ hour from the smaller Terminal Alamos, Av Guerrero Ote 402, 2 blocks from market.
Bus companies
Estrella Blanca, T669- 982 1949; Transporte Norte de Sonora, T669- 981 2335; Transportes del Pacífico, T669-981 5156.
Car
AGA, Camarón Sábalo 316, T669-914 4405.
Budget, Camarón Sábalo 402, T669-913 2000.
National, Camarón Sábalo 7000, T669-913 6000. US$277 per week.
Ferry
The ferry terminal is at the southern end of Av del Puerto, quite a way from the centre (take a bus marked ‘Playa Sur’). Ferries run to La Paz in Baja California .
La Paz ferry ticket office is only open 0830- 1300 on the day of departure; arrive before 0800. Unclaimed reservations go on sale at 1100. Don’t expect vehicle space for a same-day departure. Allow plenty of time for booking and customs procedure. Tickets are also sold at Hotel Aguamarina, Av del Mar 110, 10% commission, or from travel agents.
Taxi
Taxis charge an average US$3.50-5 between Zona Dorada and the city centre. Some may charge a higher fare in high season: avoid those that do. From Bahía del Puerto Viejo to the centre should cost US$1 (bus US$0.15).