El Fuerte travel guide

El Fuerte is the more atmospheric gateway to the Copper Canyon – wonderfully tranquil and rich in colonial architecture, and far more enticing than Los Mochis. Founded on the verdant banks of the Río Fuerte in 1564 (1½ hours by train from Los Mochis or two hours by bus), it is a destination in its own right. The bus station is 10 km from town; taxis to the centre cost around US$6.

Aside from strolling the attractive streets, it’s particularly worth visiting the El Fuerte Mirador Museum (Tue-Sun 0900-1700, US$0.50) housed in the town’s old fort that was designed to withstand attacks from local tribes. The views are commanding and more than 150 species have been spotted here, best encountered by river boat in the early morning. You can also visit local petroglyphs and the Mayo Indigenous Mission. For information, contact El Fuerte Eco-Adventures Posada del Hidalgo, http://www.hotelposadadelhidalgo.com.

For those travelling by the train, the high, long bridge over the Río Fuerte heralds the beginning of more interesting scenery (this is the first of 37 major bridges); three hours from Los Mochis the first, and longest, of the 86 tunnels is passed, then, 10 minutes later, the Chinapas Bridge (this is approximately the Sinaloa/Chihuahua state border, where clocks go forward an hour).

$$$ El Fuerte, Monteclaros 37, T698-893 0226, http://www.hotelelfuerte.com.mx. A very beautiful hotel with exquisite rooms and a jacuzzi fed by illuminated waterfalls. The best in town and recommended.

$$$ Posada del Hidalgo, Hidalgo 101, T698- 893 0242, www.mexicoscopper canyon.com. In a historic mansion. A very big, professional hotel with spa facilities and a legion of staff. Rooms can be booked through Hotel Santa Anita in Los Mochis .

$$ Río Vista, Cerro de las Pilas, T698-893 0413. Housed in the old fort stables with excellent views over the river. Lots of rusty old antiques and a good restaurant.

$ San José, Juárez 108, T698-893 0845. For the budget explorer, small, basic rooms with fan, some have bath. Friendly and scruffy.