Around 50 km east of Navojoa, into the hills, is the delightfully crumbling old colonial town of Alamos, officially one of a handful of pueblos mágicos (enchanting towns) across the country. It is a national monument and was shortlisted as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The town is an absolute must-see and has attracted increasing numbers of North American artists. Alamos owes much of its well-preserved ambience to gringos who started restoring the town in the 1960s. See also the useful website http://www.alamosmexico.com.
The town is set in a once-famous mining area, fascinating for rock enthusiasts. Although the area was explored by the Spanish in the 1530s, development did not begin for another 100 years when the Jesuits built a mission nearby. With a rich history in silver mining dating back to 1685, trips to old mine sites can easily be arranged. Fabulous old mansions also recall the town’s glory days; find out more on a house tour (departing from outside the bank on the Alameda, Sat 1000, US$12) . You can hire an English-speaking guide from outside the tourist office on Plaza de Armas.
In addition to the mansions, a tour should include the major buildings on the plaza, the Palacio Municipal, the Hacienda de los Santos, the 18th-century church of Purísima Concepción, and two small but interesting museums: Museo de María Félix (Galeana) a shrine to one of Mexico’s legendary actresses; and Museo Costumbrista de Sonora (Museum of Sonoran Costumes) (Calle Guadalupe Victoria 1, T647-428 0053, Wed-Sun 0900-1800) with a good collection of local costumes worn by indigenous peoples and settlers. A short, sharp hike up to Los Miradores is worth the effort, with wonderful views of the town and surrounding mountains.
Another reason for visiting Alamos is to see the famous jumping beans, a symbiotic relationship between a plant and a moth larvae. The two develop simultaneously giving the impression that the seed pod or bean is actually jumping.
$$$ Hotel Colonial, Obregón 4, T647-428 1371, http://www.alamoshotelcolonial.com. Beautifully decorated colonial house with 10 very different rooms and hospitable, North American management.
$$ Los Portales, Juárez 6, T647-428 0211. Beautiful 300-year-old hacienda on the plaza with atmospheric courtyard and wonderful murals. 9 big rooms have bath but fan only.
$$ Enriquez, Juárez, on the plaza, T647- 428 1199. Big, crumbling rooms at this dilapidated hotel, favoured by backpackers. Only some rooms have a bath.
$$ La Dolisa Motel, Madero 72, T647-428 0131. This motel has 10 clean rooms, with fridge and TV, private parking, laundry, telephone.
$$-$ La Posada de Alamos, 2 de Abril s/n, T647-428 0045. Former historic military hospital since converted. 10 rooms, all with baths. Drab but well priced.
$ Alamos Hostel, Madeo 7, jimtoeves@ yahoo.com. Write ahead for reservations. Dormitory and private rooms available, tent camping as well. Adults only.
$ Motel Somar, Madero 110, T647-428 0195. One of the cheapest in town, 30 rooms with hot water, telephone service, little else.
$$$-$$ Doña Lola Cenaduria ‘Koki’, Volantín s/n (near Palacio Municipal). Daily 1800-2400. Legendary fantastic restaurant. Famous for antojitos mexicanos (Mexican snacks).
$$-$ Café del Sol, Obregón 3, http://www.solipaso.com. Tue-Sun 0730-1800. Breakfast, lunch, occasional dinners and speciality coffees. Relaxed and welcoming.
$$-$ Las Palmeras, Madero 48 y Galeana. Daily 0700-2200. Family-oriented Mexican food, with superb local dishes. Very popular with locals and visitors. Full bar.
$$-$ Papillon Restaurant and Bar, Madero 74 (on way into town near the hospital). Standard Mexican fare with emphasis on cleanliness and fresh foods, including chiles rellenos (cheese- stuffed poblano peppers, dipped in batter and fried), steaks and barbecued ribs. Full bar.
Late Jan Alamos Music Festival sees pianists, symphony orchestras, choral groups, quartets, and dancers performing at venues for a week.
Early Feb Alamos Silver Festival draws the country’s finest silversmiths and collectors.
Friday before Good Friday Viernes de Dolores is a southern Mexican tradition. Houses and neighbourhoods make more than 50 elaborate and beautiful incendios (altars) displayed in windows and doorways, commemorate the suffering of the Virgin Mary. In the evening people stroll the streets viewing altars and miracles are said to happen.
8 Dec Feast of the Immaculate Conception is a week-long celebration....
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