The centre for the once important cochinilla processing
In Cuilapan, 12 km southwest of Oaxaca, there is a vast unfinished 16th-century convent (daily 0800-1800, US$2.20) now in ruins, with a famous nave and columns, and an ‘open chapel’, whose roof collapsed in an earthquake. The last Zapotec princess, Donaji, daughter of the last ruler Cosijoeza, married a Mixtec prince at Tilantengo and was buried at Cuilapan. On the grave is an inscription with their Christian names, Mariana Cortez and Diego Aguilar. Reached by bus from Oaxaca from second-class bus station, on Calle Bustamante, near Arista (US$0.50).
North of Cuilapan and 6 km west of the main road is San Antonio Arrazola, another town where alebrijes, mythical animals made of copal wood are sold. Zaachila (5 km beyond Cuilapan, daily 0800-1800, US$2.20) was the last capital of the Zapotec empire. Today this town still maintains some of its ancestral traditions in the local cooking (several restaurants). There is black pottery production, and market day is Thursday. Here are the partially excavated ruins of Zaachila, with two Mixtec tombs; the outer chamber has owls in stucco work and there are carved human figures with skulls for heads inside. Take the bus to Zaachila (US$0.60), which leaves every 30 minutes, then walk to the ruins in the valley.
Eighty kilometres south on Route 131 is San Sebastián de las Grutas (10 km northwest of El Vado, off the main road; guide obligatory, US$2) where there is a system of caves. One 400-m-long cave, with five chambers up to 70 m high, has been explored and is open to visitors. Ask for a guide at the Agencia Municipal next to the church. Take a Solteca bus bound for Sola de Vega or San Pedro del Alto, from the second-class terminal, leaves 0500, 0600, 1100, 1400 and returns 0600, 0700, 0800, 1200 – you may find that this will more than likely leave you high and dry! Also note there are no hotels but camping is possible.
Cuilapan de Guerrero videos
