Getting there
Aeropuerto Xoxocotlán (OAX) is 9 km south of the city. Transportación Terrestre Aeropuerto, T951-514 4350, run colectivos to the centre for US$3; a private taxi will cost around US$15. The first-class bus terminal is northeast of the Zócalo on Calzada Niños Héroes (some second-class buses also leave from here). The second-class terminal is west of the Zócalo on Calzada Valerio Trujano, near the Central de Abastos market. Autobuses Unidos (AU) has its own terminal northwest of the Zócalo at Prolongación Madero.
Air
Xoxocotlán (OAX) airport is about 9 km south, direction Ocotepec. Airport taxis cost US$3.50 per person. Book at Transportación Terrestre Aeropuerto on Alameda de León No 1-G, opposite the cathedral in the Zócalo (T951- 514 4350) for collection at your hotel to be taken to airport, office open Mon-Sat 0900-1400, 1700-2000. All prices and timetables are subject to change. The flights listed below are one-way, and the cheapest fares are web fares. To Huatulco with Aerotucán, Mon-Sat 0900, Sun 1000, 1 hr, US$156. To Mexico City with AeroMexico, Mon-Sat 3 flights daily, Sun 4 flights, US$84; with Click Mexicana, 5 daily, US$47. To Puerto Escondido with Aerotucán, Mon-Sat 0700, Sun 1200, 1 hr, US$156; and with Aerovega, 0900, daily, US$79. To Tuxtla with Click Mexicana, 1435, 1 hr, US$89. To most other destinations it is necessary to make a connection in Mexico City.
Airline offices
AeroMéxico, Av Hidalgo 513 Centro, T951-516 3765. AeroTucán, Emiliano Carranza 303, T951-502 0840. AeroVega, Hotel Monte Albán, Alameda de León 1, T951-516 4982. Aviacsa, Pino Suárez 604, T951-518 4555. Click Mexicana, Fiallo 102 y Av Independencia, T951-516 5797, Mon-Sat 0800-2000.
Local
Buses mostly charge US$0.50. To the 1st-class bus station, buses marked ‘VW’ go from Av Juárez. Many lines marked ‘Central’ go by the 2nd-class bus station.
Long distance
For 1st-class buses, buy tickets in advanced at the Ticket Bus Office, 20 de Noviembre 103, T951-514 6655, daily 0800-2000. There is a new 1st-class terminal, also referred to as ADO terminal, northeast of the Zócalo on Calzada Niños Héroes de Chapultepec with left luggage facilities, taxi from centre US$3. ADO, OCC, Sur and Cuenca operate from here. Note that many 2nd-class buses leave from here too. Second-class terminal is west of Zócalo on Calzada Valerio Trujano, just west of the Periférico, across from the Central de Abastos; it is referred to as the ‘Central Camionera’ (has left-luggage office, open until 2100). Some 2nd-class companies also offer superior service on some runs. The Autobuses Unidos (AU) terminal (2nd class, 2 levels of service, 1 is very good, modern buses but without a/c) is at Santa Rosa, near the Teatro Alvaro Carillo. 1st-class terminal is the only one for Villahermosa and the Yucatán. Tickets for ADO, OCC, AU, Sur and Cuenca can also be purchased at Periférico 152, T516-3222, by the pedestrian crosswalk across from the Mercado de Abastos. To Mexico City, most go to TAPO (Mexico City east bus terminal) but there are also services to the North (Terminal Norte) and South (Tasqueña) terminals. Many buses throughout the day and night, prices from US$28. To Puebla, 1st-class buses take the autopista, 4½ hrs, 2nd-class buses go on the old road, 5-6 hrs, good scenery in both cases, many buses throughout the day, US$20-25. To Veracruz, ADO services at 0830, 2215 and 2359, 7½ hrs via the autopista US$28. AU service 2230 and ADO GL 22.45 on Fri and Sun (6 hrs). US$22-31.Villahermosa, ADO services 1700, 1900, 2130, 12hrs, US$35, book well ahead. To Mérida, ADO, Sun at 0900 and ADO GL 1130, 21 hrs, US$63.
The route to Chiapas from Oaxaca is via Tehuantepec and the first 2 hrs are on very windy roads. To Tuxtla Gutiérrez, OCC services at 1900, 2100 and 2230, OCC, 10 hrs, US$26; and luxury services at 2000, US$31, also luxury service with Linea 1, Thu, Fri and Sun, 2030, US$40; 2nd-class services with Oaxaca-Istmo and Fletes y Pasajes, US$18. To San Cristóbal de las Casas, OCC services at 1900 and 2100; 11 hrs, US$29 and a luxury service at 2000, US$33. To Tapachula, an OCC service at 1910, US$26, 13 hrs; and a luxury ADO service at 2100, 11½ hrs US$33. To Tehuantepec, frequent OCC and ADO services, US$12, 4½ hrs; 2nd class: with Oaxaca-Istmo and Fletes y Pasajes, every 30 mins 0600-2400, US$9, 5½ hrs.
First-class services to the Pacific coast go via the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, taking a long detour (best overnight). 2nd-class services are direct but unpleasant on a tortuous descent to sea level; pack Dramamine and a sick bag. It’s worth considering a shuttle. To Pochutla, 1st-class OCC services at 0930, 2130, 2300, 2350, 10 hrs, US$18; direct 2nd-class Oaxaca Pacifico and Estrella del Valle at 2300, 6 hrs, US$9; indirect services at 0900, 1330 and 1630. To Puerto Escondido, 1st- class OCC services at 0930, 2130, 2300, 2350, 11 hrs, US$18.50. Direct 2nd-class Oaxaca Pacific and Estrella del Valle services (via Pochutla) at 0930, 2130 and 2300, 8hrs, US$19; Transol services at 0600 and 1330, US$9 and 7 daily with Estrella Roja, US$11. To Huatulco, 6 OCC 1st-class services, 0930, 2130 and 2300, 7 hrs, US$18; a 2nd-class service with Oaxaca Pacifico and Estrella del Valle, US$10.
To Monte Albán, Autobuses Turísticos depart from Hotel Rivera del Angel, Mina 518 near Díaz Ordaz (bus tickets sold in hotel), every 30 mins 0830 -1530, US$3 return, 3 hrs at the site, allowing only just enough time to visit ruins before returning (you are permitted to come back on another tour on 1 ticket for an extra US$1 but you will not, of course, have a reserved seat). Last bus at 1800, but subject to change. It’s possible to walk to the site by catching a local bus marked ‘Colonia Monte Albán’ from in front of the Panadería México, next to Mercado de Abastos, which will drop you at the foot of the mountain. From there, it’s tough uphill climb which should not be attempted alone or without water. It’s more feasible to walk the 4 km downhill on the return journey. The views over Oaxaca are superb.
To Mitla, buses depart from the 2nd-class stations every 10 mins, 0600- 1900, 1½ hrs, US$1.50, The ruins are 10 mins walk across the village from the bus stop on the highway. Other destinations in the Central Valleys, including Teotitlán de Valle, Tlacolula and Santa Ana del Valle, are also served by frequent 2nd-class buses. To Hierve el Agua, there is one 2nd-class bus, 0800, returning at 1430, subject to change.
Shuttles
To Pochutla with Minibuses Atlántida, hourly. Reservations and tickets at Oficina Matriz, La Noria 101, T951-514 7077, 9 departures daily, 5½ hrs, US$12; and with Eclipse 70, Armenta y López 504, T951-516 1068, 12 departures daily, 5½ hrs, US$12. To Puerto Escondido, minibuses leave from Arista 116 several times a day, 6 hrs, US$13.
Car hire
Phone ahead to book, a week before if possible. Alamo Rent a Car, 5 de Mayo 203, T951-514 8534, airport, T951- 511 6220; Hertz, La Bastida 115, T951-514 2434; TTN, 5 de Mayo 217-7 y Murguía, T951-516 2577.