Puerto Escondido travel guide

Safety

Even with the vast improvements in security, safety is an especially important issue in and around Puerto Escondido. A safe and pleasant stay here is possible with the appropriate precautions, but carelessness can have severe consequences. Never walk on any beach at night, alone or in groups. Although there are lifeguards now paid by the government, the ocean currents at Zicatela can be treacherous.

The Playa Principal, abutting El Adoquín pedestrian mall, has the calmest water but it is very close to the city and not very clean. A few fishermen still bring in the catch of the day here. The local government began building a small pier for them and the tourist craft, but it remains unfinished, and a monument to poor planning. Immediately to the south is Playa Marinero, with slightly stronger surf (reportedly a good place for beginners), also built up with hotels, bars and restaurants. Further south, past a rocky outcrop called Rocas del Morro, lies the long expanse of Playa Zicatela, which claims to be Mexico’s best surfing beach, with the Mexican Pipeline producing the world’s fastest-breaking waves (they can be more than 3½ m high). It makes for breathtaking viewing. It is suitable only for experienced surfers and very dangerous for swimming. To the west of the main bay, past a lovely headland (being built up with condominiums) and a lighthouse, are a series of picturesque bays and beaches, all accessible by road or boat from town. Playa Manzanillo and Puerto Angelito share the Bahía Puerto Angelito and are the closest (an easy 15-minute walk). They are pretty with reasonably safe swimming but very commercial; every square millimetre of shade is proprietary here, so prepare to fry or fork out for a parasol. Further west is Playa Carrizalillo, with swimming and more gentle surfing than Zicatela, accessed by a steep path of 170 steps, or by boat or taxi. Playa Bacocho is next, a long beautiful stretch of less-developed beach, where the ocean, alas, is too dangerous for swimming but makes for great sunset viewing.

Jan-Feb blues festival at various venues.

Air

Airport 10 mins’ drive west of town. To Mexico City with Click Mexicana, T954- 582 2023, 1525, daily 1 hr, US$141.50; To Oaxaca City with Aerovega, T954-582 0151, 0730, daily, US$79. Colectivo from airport, US$3 pp. Most other flights via Mexico City.

Local

To Pochutla, from corner Ctra Costera and Av Oaxaca, every 15 mins, 0530-2000, 1hr, US$2.20. For Puerto Angel, Zipolite and other beaches: transfer in Pochutla to pick-up or colectivo taxi, or alternatively get off at the crossroads at San Antonio and take a colectivo (US$0.50, every 30 mins) or taxi (US$3-4, usually waiting at the bus stop) from there, avoiding Pochutla altogether.

Long distance

To Acapulco, with Estrella Blanca, a/c, semi-direct service every couple of hours from 0400, 7½ hrs, US$18.50; or regular service, hourly 0500-1730, 9 hrs, US$14. To Mexico City, with 1st-class services at 1535, to the Southern Terminal (Tasqueña) and 1800 to TAPO and northern terminal, US$46, 18 hrs; Oaxaca-Pacífico/Estrella del Valle, 1st class, at 1800, US$33, 12 hrs via Oaxaca, arrives at Fletes y Pasajes terminal near TAPO (east terminal). To Oaxaca, with Estrella del Valle, Av Hidalgo 400 near Av Oaxaca, direct service at 0815, 1245, 2215 US$8.50, 1st class at 2230, US$10.50. OCC,3 daily, 0700, 1430 and 2045, US$18.50, 10 hrs. To Huatulco, via Pochutla, afternoon departures only, 2¼ hrs, US$5.80, 2nd class with SUR, frequent, 2½ hrs, US$3.50. To Puebla, with Oaxaca-Pacífico/Estrella del Valle, 1st class, at 1800, US$28, 10 hrs via Oaxaca, leaves you by the highway, not CAPU. First-class service 1535 and 1800, US$49, 16 hrs. To Salina Cruz, frequent 1st-class departures, 5 hrs 15 mins, US$11.50, Estrella Blanca, Av Oaxaca, 5 a day, 5 hrs, US$6.50. To Tapachula, with ADO, 1730, 15 hrs, US$33. To Tuxtla Gutiérrez and San Cristóbal de las Casas, with OCC, 1830 and 2130, Tuxtla US$26.50, 12 hrs, San Cristóbal, US$30, 13 hrs. To Zihuatanejo, with Estrella Blanca, 1 direct bus daily.

Shuttles

To Oaxaca depart from Hotel Luz del Angel on Av Oaxaca, T582-0122, 6 hrs, US$13.

Car hire

Dimar Travel Agency, Av Pérez Gasga 905B, T954-582 1551.

Banks

ATMs are all over town. Banamex, Av Pérez Gasga east of El Adoquín, 0900-1300. Bancomer, 1a Norte y 2a Pte, cash and TCs 0800-1400. Banorte, Oaxaca and Hildago, cash and TCs, reliable service. HSBC, 1a Norte y 3a Pte, cash and TCs, cash advance on Visa and MasterCard, Mon-Sat 0800-1900. 2 Casas de cambio on El Adoquín, open till 2000, poor rates.

Internet

Roughly 35 internet cafés about town; all charge US$1.50 per hr.

Laundry

Lavandería at east end of El Adoquín, US$1 per kg or US$3.25 per load, self-service, Mon-Sat 0900-2100. Also Mangos at Av Pérez Gasga by Hotel Nayar, US$2 per kg.

Medical services

Doctors: Dr Max, Av Oaxaca and 5a Norte, no emergency service, Spanish only. Dr Mario Fransisco de Alba, Av Pérez Gasga 609, T954-582 3581. Hospitals and clinics: Clínica de Especialidades del Puerto, Av Oaxaca, recommended; Clínica de Loredes, 1a Pte y 1a Norte, surgery and emergency; Clínica Santa Fe, Av 5a Pte; Red Cross, T954-582 0550. Opticians: Optica Nuestra Señora de la Luz, 3a Pte, T954-582 1844. Emergency prescription glasses. Pharmacies: Farmacia San Antonio, Av Pérez Gasga 203, T954-582 0214, has in-house physician, open 24 hrs.

Post office

7a Norte by Av Oaxaca. Good for wiring money (need transfer number from sender), Western Union office next door.