Morelia travel guide

Background

The city of Michoacán, later to become Morelia, was founded on 18 May 1541 by Antonio de Mendoza, the first viceroy of New Spain. From its outset, it was assuredly Spanish in sentiment, its first inhabitants comprising some 50 Spanish noble families and their Purépecha servants. In 1545 the city was renamed Valladolid, after its Spanish counterpart. In 1547 it was granted city status, and in 1533, a coat of arms.

However, Valladolid was not yet the capital of Michoacán, for that role had been assigned to Pátzcuaro, where Bishop Vasco de Quiroga had insisted upon taking his office. But six years after Quiroga’s death in 1571, King Phillip II moved the seat of the bishopric to Valladolid, finally making it an Episcopal city. In 1580, it replaced Pátzcuaro as the capital.

During the colonial period, various religious orders set up in Valladolid, initiating a phase of growth and architectural splendour. During the War of Independence, José Maria Morelos – a poor mestizo son of the city – distinguished himself as a great commander and strategist. In his honour, Valladolid was renamed Morelia in 1828.

Safety

In 2008-2009, Michoacán saw a surge in drug-related violence, including the gruesome murder of several police officers and a grenade attack on President Calderon’s hometown, Morelia. The Mexican government responded by dispatching over 5000 troops to the region. At the time of research, the US State Department, http://www.travel.state.gov, was warning against all but essential travel to certain parts of the Michoacán. Travellers are advised to use common sense and check the safety situation before setting out.

Getting around

Morelia’s downtown area is reasonably compact and grid-like, and therefore easily negotiable on foot. The cathedral and Plaza de Armas are its geographic centre, where the major east–west thoroughfare, Madero, changes its suffix from Oriente to Poniente (Ote to Pte). Morelos is an important north–south artery, which changes suffix (Nte to Sur) at Plaza Melchor Ocampo, just east of the Plaza de Armas.

Getting there

The airport is about 27 km north of Morelia. Blue and white ‘Aeropuerto’ buses run to the centre. The new bus terminal is a long way from town. It is best to get a taxi for the 15- to 20-minute drive, around US$3; or take a local bus. Morelia is connected by Route 43 to Salamanca, Route 14 to Uruapan and Route 15 to Zamora and Mexico City.

Air

Francisco J Mújica Airport is 27 km north of the city; a taxi to/from downtown costs around US$18, there are no public buses.

Mexican destinations include Cuernavaca, León, Mexico City, Tijuana, Uruapan, Veracruz and Zacatecas. There are international flights to Chicago, LA, San Francisco and San José (CA).

Airline offices

Aeromar, Pirindas 435, T443-324 6777. AeroMexico, Plaza Morelia Local C-18, T443-324 3604. Aviacsa, Av Camelinas 2630 Local 4, T443-324 5775. Continental, T443-317 9218. Mexicana, Enrique Ramirez 200, T443-324 5400.

Bus

The new terminal is out of town, a 15- or 20- min taxi ride, US$3. The terminal is divided into 3 sections: A, for 1st class; B, for 2nd class; and C, for 3rd class. Parkhuni, ETN, Estrella Blanca and Omnibus are among the 1st-class lines.

To Aguascalientes, 5 daily, 7 hrs, US$26. To Celaya, 18 per day, US$11. To Colima, 0740, 1200, US$23. To Guadalajara, at least hourly, 3-5 hrs, quicker on the autopista, US$23. To Guanajuato, 8 daily 0650-1525, 3½ hrs, US$11. To León, regular throughout the day, 4 hrs, US$14. To Mexico City, very regular services, some to the North terminal, some to the West terminal, 4 hrs, US$27. To Monterrey, 1745, 2000, 2045, US$72. To Pátzcuaro, hourly, 1 hr, US$4, or every 15 mins with 2nd-class autobuses Purhépecha. To Querétaro, very regular, 4 hrs, US$11. To San Luis Potosí, hourly, US$22. To Toluca airport, hourly, 0500-1800. To Uruapan, very regular, 2 hrs, US$10. To Zitacuaro, hourly, US$10, 3hrs.

Banks

Bancomer, Av Madero Oriente, Visa ATM. The ATM just east of Hotel Casino accepts Visa and MasterCard. There is a Banco Inverlat ATM next to the bus station that accepts AmEx.

Internet

La Central, Matamoros 72A, Mon-Sat 0900-2200. Chatroom Cybercafé, Nigromante 132A, Mon-Sat 0900-2200, Sun 1200-2100, spacious, tranquil. Shareweb Cybercafé, Av Madero Ote 573-C, Mon-Sat 0900-2200, Sun 1400-2200.

Laundry

Lavandería Chapultepec, Ceballos 881. Lavandería on Santiago Tapiá towards old bus station.

Medical services

Dentist: Dr Leopoldo Arroyo Contreras, Abraham González 35, T443-312 0751, near the cathedral. Recommended.

Post office

Madero Ote 369. Long-distance phone and fax, Gómez Farías 113, near the sweet market.