San Blas travel guide

This old colonial town, built as a fortress against piracy, is 66 km west of Tepic. It is usually low key, except during US and Mexican summer holidays when it suffers from over- crowding. It has become popular with teenagers and the 20-something set, and now boasts a fledgling arts and eco-tourism community. The tourist office (Mercado, 1 block from plaza, T328-255 0021, http://www.visitsanblas.com, Mon-Sat 0900-1300, 1800-2000, Sun 0900- 1300) has information in English on the history of San Blas as well as a town map. Note that since early 2009, merchants in San Blas no longer accept US dollars, only pesos. A number of interesting tours are available in the surrounding area.

Founded in 1768, little is left of the old Spanish fortress, Basilio. It was from here that the Spanish set off to colonize Baja California and North America. Above the town are La Contaduría (US$0.50) the Spanish counting house (1773), and La Marinera, a ruined church. The views over the town, estuaries and mangrove swamps from beside an incredibly ugly statue on the battlements are superb.

Once famous for its extremely long surfing wave (now diminished by changes to the ocean’s floor), long, wide Playa Matanchén, 7 km from San Blas (taxi US$2.50), is a fine beach. If you like peace and quiet, go during the week and you’ll have the place to yourself. Good home-made fruitcakes and bread are sold here. Quieter than the dirty town beach is the extensive and often-deserted Playa El Rey on the north side of the estuary of the same name, beyond the lighthouse. Take a boat across the river from just west of the harbour, US$0.50 each way; the boatman works until 1730, but stops at lunchtime (between 1400-1600). The best beach is probably Playa de las Islitas, reached by bus marked ‘Las Veras’ from the bus station; or ‘El Llano’ from Paredes y Sinaloa, just off the plaza. Surfing can be done at any these beaches; check at Tumba de Yako for tides and times .

In addition to its many long beaches, there are many pleasant places to hike and walk around San Blas and its environs. Take a bus to La Bajada, a pretty village in the foothills where you’ll find friendly people and good birdwatching. At one end of the town there is a hiking trail, part of the old Spanish Camino Real, which goes through coffee plantations and eventually joins the road to Tepic.

Off an unmarked road 16 km south from San Blas is the beautiful Playa Los Cocos, which is empty except at weekends. Here you can swim in the ocean or spend the afternoon at Casa Mañana, a hotel and restaurant where you can have lunch and use the pool. Ask the bus driver to let you off. The trip takes about 45 minutes due to a detour to La Palma. When you see the renovated Hotel Delfin, you are almost there. You can also take a taxi for about US$7.50....read more